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Thread: Gsx750esd

  1. #1
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    6th July 2017 - 22:38
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    Gsx750esd

    As above, I'm desperately looking for an ignition module for one of these, I think several other Suzuki models use the same box, GS850 and 1100 from 83 on etc
    If anyone knows of anything leave us a message.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dak S83 View Post
    As above, I'm desperately looking for an ignition module for one of these, I think several other Suzuki models use the same box, GS850 and 1100 from 83 on etc
    If anyone knows of anything leave us a message.

    Cheers.
    here
    https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/mot...54914f0fa2-007
    or
    http://www.carmoelectronics.com.au/i...oducts_id=2156

    or hit up either of these fellas
    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    So you've taken a wheel off your old ride-on then.....
    Quote Originally Posted by sidecar bob View Post
    Can't remember. I'm over there at the mo running a couple of gsx1100's.
    The Vincent looks bloody fast in the flesh too.
    .
    Failing that try Simon Gooding here
    goodpartsnz@gmail.com
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  3. #3
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    6th July 2017 - 22:38
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    Cheers for that, yea it an old cheapie I picked with a no spark problem, it has an after market Hyper Pak unit fitted to it as well as I have the original box, neither of them will give spark. Everything else, the triggers, coils etc check out so I'm hoping it the ignition module.

  4. #4
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    When you finally get it running put a multimeter on the battery and give it a rev. When regulators die it will swing well past 14v and fry poorly protected ign modules.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    When you finally get it running put a multimeter on the battery and give it a rev. When regulators die it will swing well past 14v and fry poorly protected ign modules.
    Cheers, will definitely do that, I have reg unplugged at the mo till I get it running and will check voltages.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dak S83 View Post
    Cheers, will definitely do that, I have reg unplugged at the mo till I get it running and will check voltages.
    what's the battery like? electrics don't like fucked batteries, many a bike been fried by someone hooking it up by jumper leads as the batteries stuffed and things went wrong...
    a battery is not there just for reserve power etc, it's there as a filter too.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    what's the battery like? electrics don't like fucked batteries, many a bike been fried by someone hooking it up by jumper leads as the batteries stuffed and things went wrong...
    a battery is not there just for reserve power etc, it's there as a filter too.
    I'm 90% sure thats how the igniter in the bike now that is dead got fried. The previous owner was indeed jump starting it and swapping batteries from bike to bike. Battery in it now is stuffed so have a new one, when I finally get spark to happen the charging system is the first thing I'll be checking. Currently have reg unplugged till I get it running and check things.

  8. #8
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    5th January 2007 - 14:58
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    Has the igniter turned up yet?
    I plugged it into a bike before i sent it & it definitely made sparks.

  9. #9
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Holy Trinity.

    Oil gets low, stator overheats. Owner fits 100W headlight, stator overheats. Battery gets old, stator tries to keep up, and overheats. Regulator dies, fries battery, stator overheats.

    And so on and so forth.

    Yamaha Regulator helps. The extra wire plugs into a switched feed like the live side of the rear brake light which is usually convenient.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  10. #10
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    28th May 2006 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Holy Trinity.

    Oil gets low, stator overheats. Owner fits 100W headlight, stator overheats. Battery gets old, stator tries to keep up, and overheats. Regulator dies, fries battery, stator overheats.

    And so on and so forth.

    Yamaha Regulator helps. The extra wire plugs into a switched feed like the live side of the rear brake light which is usually convenient.
    the stator only produces a finite amount of power, it will never bust its gut to put more out, putting in a bigger headlight means the regulator doesn't have to lose as much power through it's fins and the whole system survives better.
    i'm flat out fitting high load shit to my digger in an effort to save the rectifier regulator from overheating and killing itself.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dak S83 View Post
    Cheers, all, yup found the E R & D page. Bit reluctant to try one of his again as this current one has failed and I've dealt with them before and also had failures so yea, will prolly leave that as a last option.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dak S83 View Post
    I'm 90% sure thats how the igniter in the bike now that is dead got fried. The previous owner was indeed jump starting it and swapping batteries from bike to bike. Battery in it now is stuffed so have a new one, when I finally get spark to happen the charging system is the first thing I'll be checking. Currently have reg unplugged till I get it running and check things.


    that's not what you said earlier!
    leaving the regulator plugged in won't fuck them if you're only testing, even if it's fucked the initial demand on the battery when starting the bike will mean that any power produced by the electrics will initially go into replenishing what was drained out. bear in mind you won't be revving to high revs so it won't be producing as much down low too. It's best to put a meter on and follow the whole process with everything plugged in, you can see what it does when you turn lights on, run the horn etc.

  12. #12
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    3rd February 2004 - 08:11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    the stator only produces a finite amount of power, it will never bust its gut to put more out, putting in a bigger headlight means the regulator doesn't have to lose as much power through it's fins and the whole system survives better.
    i'm flat out fitting high load shit to my digger in an effort to save the rectifier regulator from overheating and killing itself.
    The original r/r location on my 1100 was under the battery box, shrouded from cooling air flow by the covers at the side, the engine in front and the swingarm pivot below.

    I relocated it to under the steering head, with extended wires and new plugs and connectors. While I cant prove anything, it is still working with original stator.
    BTW - the stator cover (with stator) off that 1000 motor I sold you is still in my shed if you want it.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  13. #13
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    the stator only produces a finite amount of power, it will never bust its gut to put more out, putting in a bigger headlight means the regulator doesn't have to lose as much power through it's fins and the whole system survives better.
    i'm flat out fitting high load shit to my digger in an effort to save the rectifier regulator from overheating and killing itself.
    My 550 killed its regulator shortly after fitting 100W bulb and mechanic admonished me so it stuck as my stupidity. But now called out, I have to think about it a bit more critically, yes the regulation function shunts the extra power back into the stator windings, where hopefully the oil caries the kinetic energy away. A higher headlight just does this externally.

    Although with no relays it all travels through switches and thin wires.

    If there isn't enough energy produced it will reduce the current everywhere. Crap you're right.

    It could under charge the battery.

    If ever I blew headlight filament on my old Suzukis I'd suspect regulator had failed as the excess voltage would kill the halogen bulbs. Meters have become considerably cheaper now.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  14. #14
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    6th July 2017 - 22:38
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Holy Trinity.

    Oil gets low, stator overheats. Owner fits 100W headlight, stator overheats. Battery gets old, stator tries to keep up, and overheats. Regulator dies, fries battery, stator overheats.

    And so on and so forth.

    Yamaha Regulator helps. The extra wire plugs into a switched feed like the live side of the rear brake light which is usually convenient.
    Copy that, already have a reg with the extra wire feed to switch it.

  15. #15
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    6th July 2017 - 22:38
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    that's not what you said earlier!
    leaving the regulator plugged in won't fuck them if you're only testing, even if it's fucked the initial demand on the battery when starting the bike will mean that any power produced by the electrics will initially go into replenishing what was drained out. bear in mind you won't be revving to high revs so it won't be producing as much down low too. It's best to put a meter on and follow the whole process with everything plugged in, you can see what it does when you turn lights on, run the horn etc.
    Huh, what do you mean, the whole time I've been investigating it I have had the reg unplugged, it wont get plugged back in till the bike is running and I can check voltages and amperage.

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