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Thread: GSX750ESD Is Going To Burn

  1. #16
    Join Date
    28th May 2006 - 19:35
    lower hutt
    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Hmmm, another dude who I trust has steered me very clear of cleaning the contacts that the brushes run on. He says clean everything else, but leave the coppery goo on there as it serves to lube the mating surfaces.
    all that does is burr over until there's enough to short out to the next comutator bar and then it's meltdown time. i clean them in a lathe, clean the grooves out, then use commutator stone to bed the brushes into the surface.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    6th July 2017 - 22:38
    2015 Suzuki M109R
    Well, I give up, nothing seems to fix this damn thing. Pulled the starter today, it was in remarkably mint condition considering its age. But anyway, cleaned it all up, check the armature for shorts etc, nothing found, gaps were all good, brushes well within spec so cleaned everything, lubed etc and put it back in. Also now have another brand new battery. The BLOODY thing will STILL not start under it's own power, if I jump it off a running vehicle, my 4WD, it fires up fine, also when it's warm it will fire up fine all by it's own, easier to start when it warms with less draw probably. Got me beat, short of replacing the starter and starter relay etc with brand new parts I'll be buggered if I know. Might be time to wire in a relay to feed the igniter and coils so bypassing all the switch gear to minimise voltage losses.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    1st September 2007 - 21:01
    1993 Yamaha FJ 1200
    Blog Entries
    I used to have an old XJ750. The compression was down. It was a bitch to start off the starter motor but would bump start first go when you released the clutch. If it was left after running it would start easily on the same day on the starter ...
    Sweat wipes off. Road-rash doesn't.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    2nd March 2018 - 15:32
    1998 Yamaha R1
    Quote Originally Posted by Dak S83 View Post
    Might be time to wire in a relay to feed the igniter and coils so bypassing all the switch gear to minimise voltage losses.
    Could be worth a try. The R1 has about 1.5 V of voltage drop from the battery to the coils. I tried a set of stick coils last year, and it was a pain to start and would cut out now and then when it was cold. Absolutely fine once up to temperature, and fired almost instantly.

    I was going to fit a relay to feed the stick coils, but it ran well with the standard coils and I was a bit concerned about damaging the igniter. I may yet try it though, as it runs so nicely on the stick coils once up to temperature. .

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