Oil service torque wrench

**Boostinu13** · 20th November 2019, 14:04

Hello. When changing the oil and filter it says to use a torque wrench in the manual.

17.5nm for filter and 30nm for the drain bolt. Never used one in a service before on my old bike / cars. Thanks for your advice. Is this just a recommended tool to use or a must?

Thank you.

**onearmedbandit** · 20th November 2019, 14:30

Never used one for either, never had a problem. Not over tightening the sump bung is the only reason I could think of using a torque wrench.

**Boostinu13** · 20th November 2019, 14:37

Originally Posted by onearmedbandit

Never used one for either, never had a problem. Not over tightening the sump bung is the only reason I could think of using a torque wrench.

Remember once years ago we snapped a BMW sump plug but other than that never an issue. Since it's on a new engine thought now's a good time to actually ask people.

**HenryDorsetCase** · 20th November 2019, 14:52

Now I have a nice torque wrench I tend to use them but having said that I didnt for years and never had an issue. If you have one, bust it out. Your sump plug will have a crush washer anyways so its just a case of nipping it up and then faffing with lockwire.

**jellywrestler** · 20th November 2019, 15:23

Originally Posted by Boostinu13

Hello. When changing the oil and filter it says to use a torque wrench in the manual.

17.5nm for filter and 30nm for the drain bolt. Never used one in a service before on my old bike / cars. Thanks for your advice. Is this just a recommended tool to use or a must?

Thank you.

depends on how you trust yourself. i'm in the habit of using it on pretty much everything as a lot of mine is older stuff.

**sidecar bob** · 20th November 2019, 15:53

Originally Posted by Boostinu13

Remember once years ago we snapped a BMW sump plug but other than that never an issue. Since it's on a new engine thought now's a good time to actually ask people.

The reason that happened is that BMW put a hollow sump plug in an alloy sump, the plug is designed to shear before the thread strips out of the sump.
I've probably tightened 10,000 BMW sump plugs & never sheared one.

**Reckless** · 20th November 2019, 16:01

Originally Posted by jellywrestler

depends on how you trust yourself. i'm in the habit of using it on pretty much everything as a lot of mine is older stuff.

Yep Same!
I have the Torque page for the race bike and road bike printed and stuck on a cupboard door and always use it.
Two reasons
1/ I (as most do) tend to over tighten everything and
2/ if your taking the same bolts in and out, over and over, it pays not to stress the threads.
A good example is sump plugs and Brake caliper bolts which are into alloy.
But each to their own

**pete376403** · 20th November 2019, 17:09

Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase

Now I have a nice torque wrench I tend to use them but having said that I didnt for years and never had an issue. If you have one, bust it out. Your sump plug will have a crush washer anyways so its just a case of nipping it up and then faffing with lockwire.

A NEW crush washer, that is. Sump plug stripping sequence goes - tight plug with old washer. It leaks a bit. Tighten it some more. It still leaks a bit. Tighten it good and proper. It now leaks a while lot because the thread is stripped. Crush washers are cheap.

**SaferRides** · 21st November 2019, 06:30

About the only place I always use a torque wrench is on the sump plug. I can get the calliper bolts right by feel now, but it's just too easy to strip the threads when tightening the sump plug.

**Boostinu13** · 24th November 2019, 19:32

Great to see different opinions. One thing I find wired with the service is the book says go to the full line with oil (nothing about hot or cold) yet all forums say 1/2, 3/4 full cold oil. Servicing is a simple task but so many different views/methods

**Honest Andy** · 24th November 2019, 19:47

Originally Posted by Boostinu13

Great to see different opinions. One thing I find wired with the service is the book says go to the full line with oil (nothing about hot or cold) yet all forums say 1/2, 3/4 full cold oil. Servicing is a simple task but so many different views/methods

Really? I've never seen a difference between hot and cold oil. I'd advise following the book, not a forum. Although here is a forum...

I've stripped a couple of sump plugs because I'm paranoid about losing the plug on the road. Now I use lockwire and hardly do them up more than finger tight. Drips a bit but I don't care

**Boostinu13** · 24th November 2019, 19:54

Originally Posted by Honest Andy

Really? I've never seen a difference between hot and cold oil. I'd advise following the book, not a forum. Although here is a forum...

I've stripped a couple of sump plugs because I'm paranoid about losing the plug on the road. Now I use lockwire and hardly do them up more than finger tight. Drips a bit but I don't care

Oh sorry I meant the book says fill not max level but doesn't say max when hot. Meant forums saying 2/3 fill. That's a good idea with lockwire. I just use the torque and trust the manufacturer haha

**Boostinu13** · 24th November 2019, 20:01

Can't delete.

**FJRider** · 24th November 2019, 20:31

Originally Posted by Boostinu13

Great to see different opinions. One thing I find wired with the service is the book says go to the full line with oil (nothing about hot or cold) yet all forums say 1/2, 3/4 full cold oil. Servicing is a simple task but so many different views/methods

Mark the level on the sight glass when the engine is still warm. Check the level the next day when it's cold. After seeing how much is involved between hot and cold, you decide then what level you want to go to. An oil level seen in the sight glass when stopped is always good news ... regardless of the level seen.