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Thread: Yamaha RZ/Banshee build

  1. #31
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    Yeah, he is who my friend got the drawing to make his pipes from. Would I be limiting the maximum HP by selecting a stinger too big vs risking cooking the engine or having to jet very rich to keep it alive If they are too small. Maybe I shoot in the middle with 24mm. I mean I can always cut them off and try another size.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by el chupacabra View Post
    Yeah, he is who my friend got the drawing to make his pipes from. Would I be limiting the maximum HP by selecting a stinger too big vs risking cooking the engine or having to jet very rich to keep it alive If they are too small. Maybe I shoot in the middle with 24mm. I mean I can always cut them off and try another size.
    If you put nozzles in them, then the stinger size is irreverent as long as it not the limiting factor.

    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1131099423

    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1129954861

    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1129955411

    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130089030

    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130209099
    Last edited by husaberg; 21st February 2020 at 16:15. Reason: added lots more links
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  3. #33
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I'd go big and reduce from there, esp if you are sorting out jetting and ideally can run or borrow egt
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  4. #34
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    I was either going to borrow or buy an EGT, probably a digitron or a kosso one. That is a neat idea. I’ll just use that as a solution for trying different stingers seeing as I have a lathe at my disposal. I wonder how much leakage there will be.

    Heading into super cheap today to get mx bike oil and fork oil I had a look at the oil selections and then went to the Suzuki shop and saw their motul selection. Seems between $30-45 is what you pay for full synthetic. Unless it’s Castrol which is about $22.

    The Penrite castor they had there says it’s fully synthetic and has a low ash formula I’m tossing up the idea of using this as I don’t have power valves to gum and it will be a dedicated track bike. It might give me some fudge factor.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by el chupacabra View Post
    it seems people aren’t too fond of the TTS.
    Nothing wrong with it, I've used it in various forms for decades, air cooled, water cooled, road bikes, race bikes, Karts, I haven't once had a failure related to it
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


    Quote Originally Posted by scracha View Post
    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
    Send Lawyers, guns and money, the shit has hit the fan

  6. #36
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Caster requires care, bit of acetone to help it mix properly then throw rest out at end of day. I've used Motul 800 in all my race bikes.

    I run TTS in my 500 as it's cheap and its supposed to be a road bike, so economy is a consideration but only really dyno hours on it.

    A mechanic told me the other day if a road bike was in ,(80s and 90s) and had failed bottom end it would be TTS and quite dry. But mine is premix so I this I'll keep running it.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  7. #37
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    At least one thing is certain. Just about every bike shop sells motul and no one has said anything bad about it.

    I’m curious what the Gp guys were using whether fully synthetic or a castor synthetic blend. Seeing as they get pulled down so often. This is probably a very easy topic to over think. Although I’m wondering how much more life you would get out of a crank bearings and Pistons depending on the oil you use.

    Also how the different oils work as the throttle is closed for braking (although I do blip it when braking and downshifting).

    I’ll probably be Mixing the Motul at 30:1.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by el chupacabra View Post
    At least one thing is certain. Just about every bike shop sells motul and no one has said anything bad about it.

    I’m curious what the Gp guys were using whether fully synthetic or a castor synthetic blend. Seeing as they get pulled down so often. This is probably a very easy topic to over think. Although I’m wondering how much more life you would get out of a crank bearings and Pistons depending on the oil you use.

    Also how the different oils work as the throttle is closed for braking (although I do blip it when braking and downshifting).

    I’ll probably be Mixing the Motul at 30:1.
    I have been rebuilding my own motors from day one basically. As mentioned have used fully synthetic 400 or 800 2T in that time. One thing about synthetic oil is that is attracted to metal. It sticks on and doesn't drop off. The term is pour point I think. A good friend found he'd broken a head bolt in his TZ and filled the cases with water. 18 months earlier than when he found it.....crank was under water. He pulled the motor apart and the crank was perfect when he washed everything down. Ran for another couple of years of club and other meetings....

    In my engines, I usually see that there is oil everywhere it meeds to be a not dry

    Great oil IS CHEAP compared to the effect of a shit oil.

    Modern bearings and modern oils, I extend my crank life by >50% compared to Yamaha recommendations. 1000km is now a 1000 miles.

    The GP teams were in theory using the oil with a base stock of what the oil manufacturer produced and they each tend to stick to one style of base stock for production. Castrol A747 is castor based, Motul is Ester based. You tend not to want to flit between them, one or the other, or if you do change, stay to what you change to.

  9. #39
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    My race 50 peaked at 13000rpm and revved on say another 1000. Did ALot of race miles on a rebuilt crank, fed rings yearly and the occasional piston 2-3 years. No breakage.
    Same crank 10 years before putting engine on the shelf for another brand engine. I'm keen on 800 at 30:1.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by malcy25 View Post
    Castrol A747 is castor based.
    Used that in TZ250 @ 33-1, didn't ever have any problems, everything always looked mint when it came apart
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


    Quote Originally Posted by scracha View Post
    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
    Send Lawyers, guns and money, the shit has hit the fan

  11. #41
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Interchangeable exhaust stinger sleeves done. Hopefully I will bend up the stingers tomorrow and make the flanges for the mufflers.

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  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    Used that in TZ250 @ 33-1, didn't ever have any problems, everything always looked mint when it came apart
    Kick, yeah, if I didn't have good access to Motul, without question I'd have been using A747 for the last 3 decades! In my very humble opinion it is in the top 3 or so 2 stroke oils.

    A747 was a great step up in usability from straight "R" .

  13. #43
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    I managed to fit up one of the tail pipes this evening, progress is a little slow.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #44
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    I think yer flying along. Erm, that subframe is looking a little German Streetfighter in angle?
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  15. #45
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    It’s a Tyga subframe. It does seem a wee bit tall as I’m on my tip toes vs I’m flat foot on my vj21 with bent knees.

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