I always like being low as possible but you can change it if it doesn't work, some people like tall bikes.
I always like being low as possible but you can change it if it doesn't work, some people like tall bikes.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Bending the 28.6mm OD tube with a 1.2mm wall thickness for the tail pipes is proving to be a bit average for anything other than the most gentle bend. Does anyone have some hot tips for stopping the pipe creasing? Just asking In case someone has some magic advice not found on google.
Really dry sand packed very tight sealed ends and heated to red hot and plenty of pipe length
I used to be able to use about 25% of what i tried.
its f-ing dangerous to use sand that is not 100% dry.
dry it in the microwave or oven
the other option is to buy bends from a EX shop our one always had plenty.
You can also buy donuts.
They also have mandrel benders
bigger than i use to use though
I have heard of people packing the pipes with resin then using a tube bender but have never tried it.
I might have to give the sand a try then. Can it be done cold with the ends sealed?
Not unless you are blessed with herculean strength or have a tube bender, it needs the heat to avoid the kinks and to control the bending and when it starts and finishes anyway by hand.
but it has to be 100% dry unless you wish to get a potential steam-bath with superheated water under pressure.
Also SS as far as i know work hardens. Doesnt it?
Yeah, I’m pretty sure SS does harden. I do have a hydraulic bender. That’s why I was wondering about doing it cold but I have solved the problem this evening. I cut the chamber up and rotated the end of the baffle so the curve could be more gentle and then just did a very minor curve with the bender.
RS125 ones never break, but they have no welds. Maybe black them out a bit?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Yeah, I am a little worried they could break. But I’ll see how they fare seeing as I’ve got 2m of aluminium left to make some more without welds maybe.
I’ve just welded some flat to drill and tap onto the cradle so I can attach the lower radiator mounts, I might do the same for the lower fairing mounts or use some sort of clamp.
When I’ve found a good stinger insert diameter for the removable tail pipes and weld the joint they could be a bit lighter duty. But they are also stopping the exhausts rolling inwards into the swing arm. Or maybe I am just over engineering it a bit, looking at that rear brake anchor.
Finally I’ve made some more headway and almost fully assembled the engine. Things left to do are:
-get some 34mm carbs (looking at mikuni oz 34mm round slides)
-drill and tap a plate for the intake rubbers to bolt onto which will fit on the cylinders
-make a plug for the kickstart hole and seal it in there.
-rebuild the brake calipers
-wire up the zeeltronic
Cool. Not to give you more tasks but stiffer clutch springs are probably in your future. Before you put it back in the the frame you could cut and extend the clutch arm 1cm for more leverage. Still get reasonable straight pull. Not sure if I reangled the holder a little. Don't think I needed to.
You can also add another plate which gives more area. Need to skim basket, thrust plate and possibly washer behind to give enough throw. Actually I think the longer arm helps here.
FZR plates are wider, or smaller internal diameter for a bit more area if you don't run rubber rings which you wouldn't.y
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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