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Thread: Yamaha RZ/Banshee build

  1. #16
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Pipes should be mounted by the end of the week

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  2. #17
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Managed to get the pipes both finished tonight. Minus the mounts.

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  3. #18
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Swift work. Obviously try to replicate pipe mounts that won't crack, like RS125 or dirtbikes. KTM rubber mid mounts are fairly cheap.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
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  4. #19
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Iím going to copy my tyga pipes by double skinning it and then welding on the bracket along the bottom edges inline with the pipe so it doesnít crack (hopefully).

  5. #20
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Progress, I have run out of time to fit the stingers this week, I will check the if fairing clears in the mean time. Otherwise I will just have to hack it up a little.

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  6. #21
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Only the belly pan needs some cutting on the left hand side to clear the belly of the exhaust

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  7. #22
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    31st August 2015 - 22:37
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    Hi . Very nice work ! Here's something you may find interesting'. A friend of mine is into racing quads and has a very hot banshee that I'm pretty sure there's bugger all banshee left in it and he told me the only oil he could use to prevent seizing was Castrol R. I thought it rather fascinating that one of the oldest racing oils could beat the newest. regards Ian

  8. #23
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    24th September 2004 - 06:46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Staples View Post
    Hi . Very nice work ! Here's something you may find interesting'. A friend of mine is into racing quads and has a very hot banshee that I'm pretty sure there's bugger all banshee left in it and he told me the only oil he could use to prevent seizing was Castrol R. I thought it rather fascinating that one of the oldest racing oils could beat the newest. regards Ian
    Well according to the burb it is more oilier. I suspect the smell might be a reason as well for using it.
    "Every time you set your ass on a bike, you're playing a game of Russian Roulette between yourself and your own stupidity."

  9. #24
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    15th May 2008 - 19:13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Staples View Post
    Hi . Very nice work ! Here's something you may find interesting'. A friend of mine is into racing quads and has a very hot banshee that I'm pretty sure there's bugger all banshee left in it and he told me the only oil he could use to prevent seizing was Castrol R. I thought it rather fascinating that one of the oldest racing oils could beat the newest. regards Ian
    R has very good lubricity properties to this day. It just has some down sides that make it a pain in the arse. Serious downsides as compared to modern synthetics. Like it's unwillingness to mix or stay mixed. Piston varnishing etc.

    for use in a 4 stroke, it's "shear strength" years ago when I last heard was better than 300V Motul (itself an outstanding oil)

    I Have used 8002T Motul religiously since it came out and 4002T before that in all my 2 stroke premix road race applications. 33 years I've been buying it. It has proven to be very good at 30:1 in watercooled and 25:1 in aircooled. I think there are some better oils, but 800 is VERY good. Good enough for my needs .


    Plenty good enough for me and 74-78bhp from my 350 Yamaha (TZ) for the last 20 odd years and 130 from it's big brother (real dyno HP, not guesses).

    Before that, my brother and I used Castrol R or Shell M at 16:1 or even richer.

    As I understand it, where the very best modern oils come into their own on a 2 stroke is very high combustion temperatures. The very best actually get more slippery.....ELF 976 is one of those. They only really come into play if you run into a "problem" which pushes temps through the roof. But you also pay for it. 99% of people are fine with 800! Motul.

    You can also get modern synthetic Castor based racing oils from Penrite, from Supercheap!

    Don't forget, ask 12 people for their opinion on the best oil and you'll get 15 answers....

  10. #25
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    You only have to go on organised trail rides to form a pathological dislike of quad riders. Car drivers of the dirt. People build up Banshees from aftermarket kit parts with little respect of their interaction. The 'Best' pipes are bought, then the buy a monster big block. The stinger size(s) are then too small for a near 500 (175 vs 250). Then they go great until they melt a piston. What is the real cause? Must be the oil. Sigh.

    Same thing with big bore RGVs, NSRs etc have to watch stinger sizes. Presumably OP has this calculation for his engine.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    You only have to go on organised trail rides to form a pathological dislike of quad riders. Car drivers of the dirt. People build up Banshees from aftermarket kit parts with little respect of their interaction. The 'Best' pipes are bought, then the buy a monster big block. The stinger size(s) are then too small for a near 500 (175 vs 250). Then they go great until they melt a piston. What is the real cause? Must be the oil. Sigh.

    Same thing with big bore RGVs, NSRs etc have to watch stinger sizes. Presumably OP has this calculation for his engine.
    yep, when I see a holed piston and people are talking oil......RUN!!!

  12. #27
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Even just seized there's usually a reason.
    Then the Amsoil zealot shows up (slips on Nikes)
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  13. #28
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Well my stinger size was figured out just using a drawing of a tyga pipe for an nsr300 a friend had sent me. The drawing has the stinger at 25mm. I am adding the stingers before I weld on the tail pipe to the mufflers. These will be turned in a lathe. Then the tail pipe is 26.2 ID and 28.6 OD, this will lead up to the flange for the muffler which has a 26.5mm exit.

    Iíve done a lot of reading today and noticed all of the banshee pipes are .905inch (23mm) or 7/8 ID (22.2mm) for their small bore stingers. Iíve also noticed early this 250s stingers between 20-22mm. Even the Aprilia RSA boasting something like 58hp is only 23.3mm (although it has quite efficient cooling of the piston) so for something that Iím hoping will make like 75-80hp (less than 40hp per cylinder) I'm thinking I might have to drop the stinger down to something that works on all those ATVs. 23-23.5mm (knowing that the cooling on the banshee isnít quite up to par with a GP bike. Iím thinking 25mm would be good if I opted for a set of 421cc cheetah cylinders.

  14. #29
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    As for oil I havenít put too much thought into that. My RM250 uses Castrolís TTS and runs fine with a new piston every second year and the bore looks mint. Thatís running 40:1. For this Iím planning to run it on 30:1 all I need to figure out is what oil to use and whatís good value for money because it seems people arenít too fond of the TTS.

  15. #30
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Yeah a mate has an mc28 with tyga kit. Same deal, stingers too small for 150cc. Presumably you mean Sketchy who has done testing on his to increase size. Power output and cc will be different of course.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

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