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Thread: Yamaha RZ/Banshee build

  1. #1
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Yamaha RZ/Banshee build

    Hello, long story short after years of owning RGV250s and having a couple of seizures chasing performance i decided to hack up my frame and fit a set of banshee cases i got from the states knowing that they had more potential for a lightweight race bike. (just for track days and the odd club races)

    So at this stage i have everything laid out in the floor to make an engine from almost all new parts. Now i am wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to things i should do to maximize performance without breaking the bank. Heres what i have so far.

    cases
    4 mil crank with TZ bearing and 115 con-rod
    A banshee first gear with rz250 ratios for second - sixth
    All new seals and bearings
    Heavy duty clutch spring with a new OEM sock clutch and fibers
    Aluminium water pump
    Cool heads with 18cc domes
    Stock cylinders ported to 130/195 ex/trans (these were $85 Chinese jobbies so i could learn how to port without much risk cheetah cubs with domes and pistons looking at $2000 before shipping and duty tax)
    Blaster pistons with a 2mm spacer plate
    V force 4 Reeds
    Zeeltronic ECU (running a Chinese ignition coil at the moment)

    So i had a go at making a pipe (the half finished one pictured) but after a bit of reading figured out that the 118mm belly diameter was a bit ambitious so here is my next pipe i am sending off to be laser cut (please if you have any educated suggestions before i send it off)

    I am also undecided about carbs. I am looking at Mikunioz and i can get a TM35 flatslide for $250AUD but then i can get a 34mm VM round slide for half the price. Does anyone have any advice on the best size car and which is better round or flat for the price?

    Cheers for any help you might be able to provide.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    husaberg
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    cool build subscribed
    oko copy PWK are cheap and reasonable quality.
    Go for TM over VM they went to flat slaides as they offer bette low and mid range as they have less dead space above the needle.
    Neil likely has some left over bypass thermostats that he used to make for TSS.

    F5 dave has built up a large RZ mill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  3. #3
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I'd always go for PWK keihin , generally just betterer and easier. I run 35mm on my 496 roadbike. That is conservative for a 500, for a long stroke trackbike 35s should be fine.

    Price varies wildly. Of the copies oko is better than other junk, but I've spent a bunch of time trying to sort out other people's ones on fxrs and they are a bit shit.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  4. #4
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    So out of curiosity, what are the major differences between the Keihin and the Mikuni in your experience? Also do you know what your pipes tuned length and belly diameter are? Not to keen on spending too much on pipes if I can just make them and learn something at the same time.

  5. #5
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Every time I've replaced flat slide mikuni with pwk I've gained power and throttle response. Seem to be easier to jet but that said anything will need experimentation
    My 350 came with pwk28s and was supposedly dynod at 70hp.

    My 500 pipes wont be suitable for your , um like 370cc? Not sure what 4mm does on stock bore. Pi R squared divided by 4, times stroke which is probably 58 now. If you have a flash crank I'd aim at 10,000 rpm peak. My 350 road bike was like 9200, heck so long ago but up 3-400 rpm on stock. Yesh think was 8900 std
    Old cranks will surely fail.

    I'm assuming you have read Bells book which will give you calculation of length as a starting point. There will be 350 pipe specs on internet somewhere. Norbos site or RZ500 forum do 350 stuff. Or find someone with engmod.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  6. #6
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    Ive have bells book and have read most of the ese thread. I kept finding that things from the thread contradicted some of the things in bells book. I even considered just copying the tz750 pipe but thought better of it. I have only been able to find tz250 pipes.

    Its 372cc and the total length of the pipe using the FOS calculator is 945mm from the piston to the stinger. I went for a 33% header 66% diffuser 77% belly. I copied the ratio of lengths of the three diffusers from a nsr300 pipe and changed their angle on an educated guess to move the power to front side of the curve. And just thought Id be conservative on the diameter with 110mm being the max for a rz. And the fact it has no powers valves.

  7. #7
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Oh, right. It's a Banshee. The Bell book is old and of it's time. I forgot about the FOS calculator. - and in last few pages of ESE threadsome chap excel sheeted it so just run it through that.

    Pwk28s will be a fine choice and there will be heaps of manifolds to fit 28mm carbs. Mine had first model TZR reedblocks squeezed in but good luck finding those these days.

    I've bought pwk28 as kx80 carb on Ebay.



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Kaw...EAAOSw1Udcu8T2

    2hundy each and will not give you any grief. Great value. Plenty of info about jetting them on net. You will be tempted by the $50 equivalents . How much is a track day? and how much time do you want to spend pushing the bike back to the pits when the float needle jams closed? Again.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  8. #8
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    You dont think there is any need to go bigger than 28mm for a trackday bike? Like they wont hold back any HP? Im only looking at genuine carb options at the moment as well although my friend has lent me some knock off 38mm keihins Im reluctant to try.

  9. #9
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    KDX200 ran 35mm PWK
    but they will all be fogged out in the needle jet by now
    Rob "TZ350" buys these from here only for the ese team
    https://www.treatland.tv/OKO-34mm-ca...etor-metal.htm
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  10. #10
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    My 350 reputedly made 70hp with 28mm
    No power valves so don't go crazy

    It will still out grun a wheezy RGV through sheer capacity.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  11. #11
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    5th December 2010 - 23:03
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    What was done to your 350 to make 70hp?

    All Im waiting on is the pipes to come from the laser cutting place after Christmas before I start cleaning assembling the engine. Then rebuilding all the Callipers and finding the $$$ for a rear shock. But like all projects its already a year over schedule.

  12. #12
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    A year, pah! Child's play. Mines about 10.

    So I bought my 350 as base for my 496. Had Toomey pipes, pwk28s, TZR reedblocks and a fairly typical port.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  13. #13
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    the new better designed pipes have just showed up. Time to get rolling.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #14
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    Coolness.
    . . .
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

  15. #15
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    Welded all of the cones up today and have taped one set together to see how they fit. The next step is to take the bike to the workshop and weld them up also using the stock RGV rubber exhaust mount.
    Click image for larger version. 

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