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Thread: Break in procedure after engine rebuild

  1. #1
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    20th November 2006 - 18:38
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    Break in procedure after engine rebuild

    Hi All,

    Can anyone recommend a break in procedure for a 750 popup Katana that had an engine overhaul including new rings and bearings etc.

    The engine work was done approximately 10 years ago, but I've only just managed to get the bike running.

    Also how easy is it to change fork seals (dust and oil) on this bike. Mine don't really leak when I bounce the forks, more like spurt...

    -Spuds

  2. #2
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    24th September 2004 - 06:46
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    Fork seals are peice of piss. A take it easy for the first few hundred kms varying the revs up tto about 6000rpm.. Drop/change the oil and filter at about 500kms, also check/adjust the tappet clearances, and take the revs hoigher. Then about 1500 kms, change the oil/filter, again checking/adjust the tappet claerances. After the second change go to normal service intervals which are around every 5000kms. Probable good idea to check/retourque the head nuts at the 500km and 1500km mark as well while the tappet cover is off before adjusting any tappets.

    You should be able to find a maintenance/service manual online easy enough.

  3. #3
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Did this bike come from Kaiapoi ? Got the receipts for the engine work ?

    Unless you know for sure what's in it, warm it through and drop the oil. Replace with a good straight mineral of the recommended viscosity.
    The intervals given above are a tad pedantic but will do. Head retorque should only be needed once. These don't give problems in that area.

    10 years ago there were people around ChCh who knew these engines well. If there's a name on the receipts I'd like to know who...PM me if you don't want to say publicly.

  4. #4
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    20th November 2006 - 18:38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Did this bike come from Kaiapoi ? Got the receipts for the engine work ?

    Unless you know for sure what's in it, warm it through and drop the oil. Replace with a good straight mineral of the recommended viscosity.
    The intervals given above are a tad pedantic but will do. Head retorque should only be needed once. These don't give problems in that area.

    10 years ago there were people around ChCh who knew these engines well. If there's a name on the receipts I'd like to know who...PM me if you don't want to say publicly.
    Na, I bought the bike almost 15 years ago from a dude out in Hei Hei I think.

    Rode it the rest of the way around the clock and then got another bike which I used as my daily ride.

    I kept the Kat with the idea of doing it up as its an awesome bike, put $1800 worth of parts from Australia into the engine. A mechanic that I knew well at the time did the work as a cash job so no receipts there. He probably finished doing the work on the bike 8 or 9 years ago.

    The bike languished in pieces for ages, but work started to seriously happen to it about 4 years ago. The chassis and engine were painted, new decals were copied and cut using the original ones etc. More parts were bought.

    We finally go the bike running in August 2018, and ride-able after a fashion, shit even the popup headlight still pops up and down, but it had a few major problems (like would die if given even a small handful of throttle). The bike sat for the next year or so until recently when I cleaned out the garage enough to work on it some more. After pulling out, cleaning, checking and putting in the carbs several times and chasing electrical gremlins to find out why it wouldn't run right, it turned out to be a dud battery.

    Now it revs out fine, idles really good, and just needs the fork seals done before it can get a wof.

    Future work includes getting the plastics and paintwork sorted (I got the decals made, but need to sort out the bodywork before I can use them) and find some glove boxes. After that it will be a finished project and should hopefully look near new.

    Thats the really long answer to your question I guess. No it didn't come from Kaiapoi, it currently has cheap mineral oil in it while the engine breaks in, and I will take heed of what Bonez has said.

    Thanks for your help guys.

  5. #5
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    Fair enough. All good, enjoy your ride.
    The one in Kaiapoi I knew had been sold about this time frame. It was going to have an 1100 inserted - not difficult.
    I'd tried recently to trace it as I have a customer with an historic race 750 who would like a spare engine...

    The reason I asked who did it is because anyone who'd been involved racing them knew about the TSB from Suzuki which recommends shimming the oil pressure relief valve - using two 6mm spring washers ! This family of engines is particularly bad in the oiling dept.

    Fork seals are easy if you have access to a rattle gun. Once you have the retaining screw for the internal dampers out changing seals is easy.
    You used to be able to get seals over the counter in ChCh but now it's probably better on the net.

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mulletman View Post
    Small capacity newish model with synthetic oil vs 35ish year old bike with over twice the capacity and more moving parts with mineral oil.. Your handle suites you.

    There is deffinately something in the water down your way.

    I like being pedantic wrt motorcycle maintenance.

  8. #8
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    Here is the running in advice directly from the owners manual for an Ariel Atom
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonez View Post
    Small capacity newish model with synthetic oil vs 35ish year old bike with over twice the capacity and more moving parts with mineral oil.. Your handle suites you.

    There is deffinately something in the water down your way.

    I like being pedantic wrt motorcycle maintenance.
    Ok, Bonehead would be better handle for.

    Something definitely in your water with the amount of other crap you've been posting.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mulletman View Post
    Ok, Bonehead would be better handle for.

    Something definitely in your water with the amount of other crap you've been posting.
    in case you haven't noticed this is KB so one is expected to post crap once ina while. You can go back to watching Deliverance now.

    BTW a sampling rate of 2 engines doesn't mean it works for all motorcycle engines so therefore a crap analysis. You have certantly qualified to be on KB.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidecar bob View Post
    Here is the running in advice directly from the owners manual for an Ariel Atom
    I like that. I could if so inclined, pull out the running in instructions for an Ariel square four from the 50's - which resemble Bonehead's ones.

    Out of curiosity, anyone used magnatec in a bike engine with integral gearbox ?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    I like that. I could if so inclined, pull out the running in instructions for an Ariel square four from the 50's - which resemble Bonehead's ones.

    Out of curiosity, anyone used magnatec in a bike engine with integral gearbox ?
    A previous owner of my XF650 did. The original owner in fact who had clocked up over 50,000kms.. I't was obviously well maintained. Even had the magnatice oil change sticker under the seat. Engine sounds sweet as a nut with 87,000kms up. The fact the original owner had clocked that up was one factor as to why I bought tne bike. It ment it was well maintained and sorted out from the time it left the bike shop.

    Oh btw calling me Bonehead isn't insulting at all. Wifey calls me that all the time. But if it keeps the knuckle draggers happy........

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    I like that. I could if so inclined, pull out the running in instructions for an Ariel square four from the 50's - which resemble Bonehead's ones.

    Out of curiosity, anyone used magnatec in a bike engine with integral gearbox ?
    I have an Atom under my care, the owners manual would be the most un PC bit of humour I've read in ages.

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