Projects At Home During Lockdown

[Ian Staples]

to make the tail piece for my road bike project which is a tribute to the cb1100r ducks arse I need to tip the alloy 90 degrees at about 15mm radius along a curved edge so my plan it to build a set of ducks guts beading rollers. I have had in the shed for 28 years a small set of beading rollers that I had a play with when I got them and thought they were worn out but I spent a day or two stripping them bead blasting and painting them and they are actually in very good nick and now team blue ! but not big enough to do what I want so I shall build a decent set. spent the last 3 days working on my milling machines , one had an oil leak on the quill that hat got so bad when you started it up you had to stand back so as not to get covered in oil . I stripped it and thought I would shout it a new set of spindle bearings only to find out the are now longer available and in fact were made especially for this machine so I put it back together with a seal that did not resemble bakolite. Mi other mill had a noisy feed gearbox when I bought it 2 years ago and back then I tried to remove the feed motor figuring that I should undo the 4 bolts and slide the motor off...…….er no I beat and leavered it to the point that I thought I was going to break something then took half of the gearbox apart to see if there was anything stopping the motor coming off but could not see in there so gave up and listened to the noise for the last 2 years , It sounded like a front motor bearing to me . it always pissed me of as I think it's the only thig that has ever beating me. The other day while mill 1 was in bits waiting for a seal I thought bugger it, it must come apart so after pulling it apart even further I did see that the motor should have just slid off but probably never has been of in 30 years so I beat and levered it even harder until it did come off . motor bearings OK but replaced them anyway and I was very pleased to find the gearbox input bearing very sad. so a new bearing there and a half day to get it all back together and its a lot quieter.

[husaberg]

to make the tail piece for my road bike project which is a tribute to the cb1100r ducks arse I need to tip the alloy 90 degrees at about 15mm radius along a curved edge so my plan it to build a set of ducks guts beading rollers. I have had in the shed for 28 years a small set of beading rollers that I had a play with when I got them and thought they were worn out but I spent a day or two stripping them bead blasting and painting them and they are actually in very good nick and now team blue ! but not big enough to do what I want so I shall build a decent set. spent the last 3 days working on my milling machines , one had an oil leak on the quill that hat got so bad when you started it up you had to stand back so as not to get covered in oil . I stripped it and thought I would shout it a new set of spindle bearings only to find out the are now longer available and in fact were made especially for this machine so I put it back together with a seal that did not resemble bakolite. Mi other mill had a noisy feed gearbox when I bought it 2 years ago and back then I tried to remove the feed motor figuring that I should undo the 4 bolts and slide the motor off...…….er no I beat and leavered it to the point that I thought I was going to break something then took half of the gearbox apart to see if there was anything stopping the motor coming off but could not see in there so gave up and listened to the noise for the last 2 years , It sounded like a front motor bearing to me . it always pissed me of as I think it's the only thig that has ever beating me. The other day while mill 1 was in bits waiting for a seal I thought bugger it, it must come apart so after pulling it apart even further I did see that the motor should have just slid off but probably never has been of in 30 years so I beat and levered it even harder until it did come off . motor bearings OK but replaced them anyway and I was very pleased to find the gearbox input bearing very sad. so a new bearing there and a half day to get it all back together and its a lot quieter.

Hats off that would be a bloody tricky shape to replicate in alloy.


some tribute and restomod versions

[Grumph]

I've reached the point with my lathe where I reckon I can nurse it along for a couple more years - which will see my build programme completed.
Some years back i replaced the diecast alloy tumbler gears with steel - which then exposed the diecast alloy half- nuts in the carriage drive as the next weak link.
Fuckit, I don't machine long bits anyway. Smallish Emco - about a 6in swing. Next owner can rebuild it.

I've covered the workshop in grinding dust - profiling tubes is dusty work. Better have a cleanup tomorrow.

Material shortages are a pain. I buy as I need stuff - cash sales. At present there's a wide divergence of what is contactless. Some will take eftpos, some won't.
Wanted to pay a good size bill today. Mob I know have a cordless eftpos terminal - which I could have used safely. Wouldn't do it. I told them I didn't want that held against my credit record.
And no, I don't do internet banking. Dialup isn't capable of it. And my bank stopped using cheques just prior to lockdown....

[Grumph]

[QUOTE=husaberg;1131161040]Hats off that would be a bloody tricky shape to replicate in alloy.


A couple of my Aermacchi customers brought in tanks from Bartel in NI. Close inspection revealed they were made from pressings welded together.

I'd do the tricky bits of that seat as pressings. Low volume press dies don't have to be anything special, resin or hardwood works.

[husaberg]

A couple of my Aermacchi customers brought in tanks from Bartel in NI. Close inspection revealed they were made from pressings welded together.

I'd do the tricky bits of that seat as pressings. Low volume press dies don't have to be anything special, resin or hardwood works.

i thought the same when i realised the ducktail looks like a plate slapped on.
But i suspect someone will want to do it without the welding.

the ROC chaissis bits i believe were made by pressing into a special concrete form with rubber from memory the concrete had a shit load of mircosilica in it
like this

[HenryDorsetCase]

[QUOTE=Grumph;1131161044]

Hats off that would be a bloody tricky shape to replicate in alloy.


A couple of my Aermacchi customers brought in tanks from Bartel in NI. Close inspection revealed they were made from pressings welded together.

I'd do the tricky bits of that seat as pressings. Low volume press dies don't have to be anything special, resin or hardwood works.

Three piece? Two sides then a middle, two welds, bada bing, bada boom, done? (I say that as if I know what the fuck I'm talking about - I don't).

[husaberg]

Three piece? Two sides then a middle, two welds, bada bing, bada boom, done? (I say that as if I know what the fuck I'm talking about - I don't).

Its hard to pick from the pics but its shaped knd of like this.

[eldog]

The practise probably does go back to pushbike origins. The .675 is plain shaft size - often with a 5/8 thread on the end where it's an axle.
Not dissimilar to the common Jap medium/lightweight practise of a 14mm thread on the end of a 15mm axle.

But they did make it difficult for themselves with the odd size. 5/8 thread on an 11/16 axle would have been so much easier. Poms eh...

The above makes sense unless you really need a shoulder to clamp to.
very practical them early designers and manufacturers
Talking threads etc
occasionally I run into allsorts of threads
Jap/german also like M18 and M22
as well as metric fine
esp for transport related jobs.
russian stuff great metric threads but often crude forged heads on bolts, screws and cap screws including non to us standard internal hex sockets 7 AF etc
i have a customer who uses M12 fasteners with same hex size on bolts and nuts, our supplier has 18 AF for bolts and 19 AF for nuts makes for exciting conversations.

in general keeping to what was originally standard is a good plan, but sometimes it’s not available. Grump is onto it.

yanks used standard wierd and wonderful threads, they also like making things just slightly tricky by changing the pitch up or down by 1 or making it left hand, these types of trickery not so common lately

generally prefer UNC but not really practical for mbikes.

[Ian Staples]

Hats off that would be a bloody tricky shape to replicate in alloy.


some tribute and restomod versions

Yes I have it in my head what I want but not sure if it can be done in alloy the tank was the easy part. I really don't want to dumb it down to a simpler shape until I have tried and failed making what I want. It looks like I may not get to do it till next year as it will take a while to build the beading rollers and I have to help do a daughters kitchen and laundry and fix a very bent sidecar

[Grumph]

The above makes sense unless you really need a shoulder to clamp to.
very practical them early designers and manufacturers
Talking threads etc
occasionally I run into allsorts of threads
Jap/german also like M18 and M22
as well as metric fine
esp for transport related jobs.
russian stuff great metric threads but often crude forged heads on bolts, screws and cap screws

yanks used standard wierd and wonderful threads, they also like making things just slightly tricky by changing the pitch up or down by 1 or making it left hand, these types of trickery not so common lately

generally prefer UNC but not really practical for mbikes.

There is a small amount of crossover which is useful to know.
Some time back I was picking up a crank from a guy in ChCh who did them - now retired, He asked me what i did for small cycle thread screws. He was having trouble finding the 3/16in cycle screws which are used to lock big end nuts on a lot of British built up cranks. Most of the originals now are nackered, I said - retap 5mm X .8 pitch. So close over a short length it makes no differnce. He pulled out the calculator and agreed with me. New HT capscrews off the shelf.

8mm X 1mm pitch can also be used as a dirty replacement for 5/16 Cycle - again over a short distance of thread with a retap.

[sidecar bob]

Yes I have it in my head what I want but not sure if it can be done in alloy the tank was the easy part. I really don't want to dumb it down to a simpler shape until I have tried and failed making what I want. It looks like I may not get to do it till next year as it will take a while to build the beading rollers and I have to help do a daughters kitchen and laundry and fix a very bent sidecar

Ah yes, the very bent sidecar, I wondered when or if that was going to get a mention.
What is the extent of damage there?

[swarfie]

There is a small amount of crossover which is useful to know.
Some time back I was picking up a crank from a guy in ChCh who did them - now retired, He asked me what i did for small cycle thread screws. He was having trouble finding the 3/16in cycle screws which are used to lock big end nuts on a lot of British built up cranks. Most of the originals now are nackered, I said - retap 5mm X .8 pitch. So close over a short length it makes no differnce. He pulled out the calculator and agreed with me. New HT capscrews off the shelf.

8mm X 1mm pitch can also be used as a dirty replacement for 5/16 Cycle - again over a short distance of thread with a retap.

Yeah I use M5 cheese head screws on Velocette screw-up primary chain cases as most of the threads are worn out through over-use over the years. Half the time they're so worn you don't even have to run a tap down them.

[Ian Staples]

Ah yes, the very bent sidecar, I wondered when or if that was going to get a mention.
What is the extent of damage there?

Looking at the sad wee thing without getting it off the trailer so far I can see . one bent rim half. (bought a new one in January) bent front fork ,not sure about front swing arm. bent bottom swing arm pivot plates . bent mud guard and bracket , bent number board and instrument panel mount . exhaust bent ,rh kneeler bent ,oil cooler mounts bent, radiator bent , rear frame tube over wheel bent down ,rear frame that holds rear shock bent over. All bodywork to be replaced , Not sure if the frame is bent, I hope not !. Apart from that it's all good !

[F5 Dave]

Cup holder?

[sidecar bob]

I got the carbs back in yesterday after servicing them & removing all the US evaporative emission junk that was messy & the source of some intake vacuum leaks.
Serviced a heap of sub assemblies, stripped the headlamps out of their holder & took them out of their rings cleaned everything with steel wool & assembled with wd40, stripped the instruments out of the dash, cleaned everything individually & assembled.
Stripped the front & rear footpegs out of their brackets, buffed & scrubbed all the parts & lubed & assembled.
Stripped the rear wheel, gave it a proper clean, polished the disc in the lathe, cleaned & lubed the caliper mount bush, polished the axle in the lathe & mounted the rear wheel.
Currently going through the rear master cylinder & caliper, pedal etc to be mounted next.
I have to reccomend this stuff as the all time best cleaner I've ever used on parts with years of crap on them, followed up with WD40.
https://www.stevens.co.nz/kitchen/ki...-750ml-6338419