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Thread: Tf 125 motor bucket thingy

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    that rod is ProX Con.Rod Kit RM125 ’84-86 + CR125 ’83-84
    https://www.pro-x.com/prox-connectin...nsions-suzuki/
    But how do you know its a Pro x Pin Scott?

    the Pn from the Cr125m is about the right length and Samarin still make the pins in the right size for 20mm

    http://www.samarin.net/?productos=&a...nas=13&&id=192

    or 22mm
    http://www.samarin.net/?productos=&a...nas=16&&id=211

    KT.204 EC • KTM 125 EXC SX 89/97 (110 19 26 14,8 20 56 15x19x20P 20x26x15.EC
    the trouble is . I just pulled apart some rods . And out the blue this was in one of them . Now did some one modify this or was it part of a kit ? . Easy to use a stelight tip cutter to machine the pin down or buy one of my dad's cylindrical grinders to grind both ends down lol
    i'm over buckets

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr bucketracer View Post
    the trouble is . I just pulled apart some rods . And out the blue this was in one of them . Now did some one modify this or was it part of a kit ? . Easy to use a stelight tip cutter to machine the pin down or buy one of my dad's cylindrical grinders to grind both ends down lol
    A few Kawasaki triples and some others had two diameter pins but they were not common does the pin have any markings.
    my thoughts would be bore out crank fit std pin rinse ad reapeat.rather than make custon pin and have to do that again.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    A few Kawasaki triples and some others had two diameter pins but they were not common does the pin have any markings.
    my thoughts would be bore out crank fit std pin rinse ad reapeat.rather than make custon pin and have to do that again.
    boring out the hole really is like 10 Times
    The work
    i'm over buckets

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr bucketracer View Post
    boring out the hole really is like 10 Times
    The work
    Than making a custom pin and getting it heat treated each time?
    Powroll did all their strokers by boring and sleeving the pin holes than by offset pins?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Than making a custom pin and getting it heat treated each time?
    Powroll did all their strokers by boring and sleeving the pin holes than by offset pins?
    na machining 2 ends of a crank pin down
    i'm over buckets

  6. #36
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    Did the crank wheels on the TF. And the MB. But only after breaking ground down pins twice, both times at Ruapuna. Despite huge radius. Easy rebuild after that, if ever required.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  7. #37
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    1st June 2014 - 21:23
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    How did you go about boring the hole out?? Would you use a rgv rod and yammy again?

  8. #38
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    I cheated and gave it to Mike, dad of Rogan. Any decent toolmaker should do the job with precision. In the MB case we destroyed it by doing the bore offset. Actually did this with my RG and Derbi engine as wel the TF was just central and bigger.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  9. #39
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    I would not get to carried away . Just get a rod kit online . Last 3 I got were 17usd each . Mate got them somewhere. Hucky is a master at finding this stuff . With the barrel packed up 2mm and machine top of barrel . Ex port at around 24mm from top . Open the intack up for a 32mm carb and run a mx 125 exhaust . 186 degrees ex no more . Dont laugh dave (-: but you will get a good torquey power
    i'm over buckets

  10. #40
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    It is alot of info to process.. I think I am just waiting for somebody to give me a push on what to get and be done with it, anyway cleaned up the rough bits in the exhaust port still needs some more work, cleaned up transfer ports and drilled and tapped exhaust bolts for M8 as the M6 holes where almost stuffed.

    Hard to clean these ports up without sanding drums currently have wet n dry paper wrapped around a rod poking out of the die grinder, far from ideal.

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    What are peoples thoughts of removing the reed valve and filling the hole up? Seems like a good idea from what I have been reading.

  11. #41
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	345406 Bad old style copper coated "W" big end bearing. These are prone to breaking up when revved hard.

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ID:	345405 Good new style silver plated flat big end bearing. These are much more reliable.

    It is the flat bearing that was important in making my rod choice. At the time only RGV250's had them but other rod kits do now. So you might be able to find a 19mm B/E flat bearing rod kit.

    My motor has a rotary valve and I used longer and longer rods to get as much volume in the crankcase as possible. Big crankcase volumes seem to suit RV engines, reed valvers not so much.

    Also the longer rod allowed the barrel to be moved up/down until the transfer timing was in the right place. Then the inlet and exhaust can be ported to get the required timing there.

    I also favored rods with 22mm big end pins because I de stroked my motors by having the 19mm B/E bored out and offset to reduce the stroke so I could run some re bored cylinders I had as 110cc water coolers.

    The last TS125 I saw made a very reliable 22 RWHP and did not suffer to badly from heat fade. I myself have made much more power but the waste heat load was to much for the air cooling fins to cope with. A torquey 22hp looks a good choice.

    I would think a standard TS rod kit and 22 RWHP at 10,000 RPM would be plenty reliable and a very good ride.

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    This is Ricks NF4 with his 22hp TS125 engine in it. Very reliable and super competitive with Rick and his son Will taking turns riding it.

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    I chased hp thinking that was the answer but it turns out that its holding corner speed that wins races. I never really got very good at that.....

  12. #42
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    Keep it simpleClick image for larger version. 

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    i'm over buckets

  13. #43
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	345418 This is Yow Lings setup and I think this engine is now in Diesel Pigs bike.

    An indispensable tool for 2T engine tuning is a good timing wheel.

    Quote Originally Posted by mr bucketracer View Post
    I would not get to carried away . Just get a rod kit online . With the barrel packed up 2mm and machine top of barrel . Ex port at around 24mm from top . Open the intake up for a 32mm carb and run a mx 125 exhaust . 186 degrees ex (Duration) no more. You will get a good torquey power
    Mr Bucketracers engine layout looks to be a pretty reliable plan.

    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    In my opinion it would be better to use a full skirt piston and take the piston port down to achieve the desired port timing. This will result in increased port area as well which it needs. I had great success in completely removing the reed valve and filling the whole area with devcon. The end result was 200 degree piston port timing, plenty of port area, nice smooth intake port matched to a round slide 32mm Mikuni.
    Speedpro had a pretty competitive engine and it ran 200 deg inlet duration and 200 deg exhaust duration, and my guess is that the transfers were around 130 - 132 duration.

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    Both Mr Bucketracer and Speedpro have used stepped pins. Kawasaki also used stepped pins on some of their bikes. Speedpro made his pin offset to reduce the engines stroke so he could run a water cooled head. At the time air cooled capacity was 125cc and for water cooled 2T's max capacity was 100cc. With a re bored cylinder it is now a max capacity of 110cc for water cooled 2T's.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	345418 This is Yow Lings setup and I think this engine is now in Diesel Pigs bike.

    An indispensable tool for 2T engine tuning is a good timing wheel.



    Mr Bucketracers engine layout looks to be a pretty reliable plan.



    Speedpro had a pretty competitive engine and it ran 200 deg inlet duration and 200 deg exhaust duration, and my guess is that the transfers were around 130 - 132 duration.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Both Mr Bucketracer and Speedpro have used stepped pins. Kawasaki also used stepped pins on some of their bikes. Speedpro made his pin offset to reduce the engines stroke so he could run a water cooled head. At the time air cooled capacity was 125cc and for water cooled 2T's max capacity was 100cc. With a re bored cylinder it is now a max capacity of 110cc for water cooled 2T's.

    Right, so I have been reading "2 stroke performance tuning" its actually a good book, starting to get more of a grasp of what's being said. I have emailed around asking about a flat silver cage bearing for the 19mm pin, will have to wait and see what comes back, not too bothered if I have to get the crank bored out its just more time.

    What do you fellas use to change the port sizes? Does a 90 degree die grinder fit inside the bore or do you use those little 90 degree dentist type drills or just long reach bits through the intake?

    Thanks for the pics and comments it has helped put a few things in perspective and I now have a better idea of what to shoot for.

  15. #45
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    The TF has super long twisted exhaust port and you need to be able to reach the whole way, not just the big near the windows. I bought a really long flame bit with like a 7mm (guess) shaft for the big collet of my die grinder. It was actually too long so I cut at least an inch off the shaft.

    Dip it in diesel (just heard this) or crc (what I used to use) to keep it clear. Diesel makes more sense so looking forward to trying it. Learn to use the bit carefully with stroking arcs, don't go too fast or you work harden the material, avoid chatter and never ever get it fully trapped by its diameter or bad things will happen. I.e. use the tip to widen the hole until it's big enough to fit the bit with some room.

    Vivid pen for large area removal. You can take metal out but putting it back is much harder. Measure, cut measure. Repeat.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

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