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Thread: Tf 125 motor bucket thingy

  1. #61
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    .
    I could not find a dished Kawasaki KX125 piston, only this empty box.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The "5650" in the part number means 56mm piston 0.5mm oversize and CW16 means 16mm piston pin clips.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	345492 The box's and pistons are probably mixed up.

    This is a collection of different 56mm Yamaha YZ125 pistons. Flat top and shallow dome, 16mm pin.

    I understand that Buckets is called Buckets because they are largely built from bits found in that bucket of shit that accumulates under the bench.

  2. #62
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    1st June 2014 - 21:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .
    I could not find a dished Kawasaki KX125 piston, only this empty box.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200417_075950.jpg 
Views:	51 
Size:	713.4 KB 
ID:	345491

    The "5650" in the part number means 56mm piston 0.5mm oversize and CW16 means 16mm piston pin clips.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200417_075324.jpg 
Views:	68 
Size:	849.3 KB 
ID:	345492 The box's and pistons are probably mixed up.

    This is a collection of different 56mm Yamaha YZ125 pistons. Flat top and shallow dome, 16mm pin.

    I understand that Buckets is called Buckets because they are largely built from bits found in that bucket of shit that accumulates under the bench.
    Ah nice, I re measured the bore and it's something around 56.04 hard to get an accurate measurement without a micrometer, so it looks like with a rebore I will.be either .25 or .5 over guess is depends on if I hone it or get it bored. The way my finances are at the minute it will probably be honed out to the next size, depends what piston pops up I guess. It also looks like there is bugger all difference between a RGV rod and the TS except with the RGv rod I will have to get the correct size B.E pin like $15 ish between them will wait to see what is around locally, not too keen to order stuff from overseas this carona virus will delay shipping considerably. I have been getting parcels from 3 months ago

  3. #63
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    ... i do want to get rid of the offset plug and o-ring the head but only because i am in this far already.
    On my sleeved RGV cylinder motor I had the plug hole on the stock RGV head welded and a new plug hole placed vertically in the centre. RGV heads are pretty ugly to start with. I made a real effort to keep squish & compression exactly the same. The motor gained something like 1.5-2hp. The improvement was all over.

  4. #64
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    If you end up making a spacer to go under the cylinder, get a pile of different thickness pieces of alloy, including paper thin if you can. Bolt them into a stack with the thinnest on the inside. Cut out the shape and you end up with a pile of shims and spacers to adjust the height of the cylinder. Really useful just for adjusting port heights and particularly if you change pistons or rods and need to adjust the cylinder height.

  5. #65
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    This, but bolt the barrel down when taking measurements. Adjust the transfers to where you want and grind everything else . TF exhaust you can be brutal with like no other bike as it's meant for farmers. It is stupidly low. But I always try to engineer parts to handle as many revs as possible then decide on where peak power should be after that is known.
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  6. #66
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    1st June 2014 - 21:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    On my sleeved RGV cylinder motor I had the plug hole on the stock RGV head welded and a new plug hole placed vertically in the centre. RGV heads are pretty ugly to start with. I made a real effort to keep squish & compression exactly the same. The motor gained something like 1.5-2hp. The improvement was all over.
    Is there any reason people dont make an insert for the head and make the insert a spigot fit into the bore? Well, the same as some water cooled 2 smokes, why not with a air cooled motor?

    Thanks to both dave and you for the info about the base space, I would of gone with one big piece of alloy

    Seen this while looking around different forums, pretty simple and effective way to water cool a air cooled motor, form some sheet metal around the cooling fins and add an inlet and outlet so it's a water jacket. Not applicable to my application but cool anyway.Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #67
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    Made more than a few watercooled barrels for my 50s and 100s.

    1 piece spacer can work fine with 3Bond or Loctite master gasket to seal it, but working out how much you need is easier with gaskets added, you can make something later if there's too many for reliable sealing. Degreewheel with pointer plasticine stuck to case can work well. I use a thin feeler gauge and when the piston bends it the port is closed. Measure thrice, cut once.

    People do spigot heads but is better done on plated barrels rather than ones that may need to be bored later.
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  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post

    People do spigot heads but is better done on plated barrels rather than ones that may need to be bored later.
    Ah, ofcourse makes sense.

  9. #69
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    My scooter cylinder
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  10. #70
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    Up tp about 20hp you don't really need to worry about watercooling. My old TS was fine even on Manfeild or big Ohakea GP tracks or a couple of road circuits. My 22hp MB was OK even at Pukekohe

  11. #71
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    1st June 2014 - 21:23
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    Just a quick question, if i put a 110 mm conrod in this means the displacement is now over 130.5 CC i put a 110 mm conrod with a .5mm oversize piston the displacement is now 137.8 right? so i really need a 105mm rod max with a .5 mm overbore even then its 131.5 CC? how anal should i be on following these rules?

    i have been trying to sort parts but at the moment its near impossible to get anything so may have to wait a few weeks then source what i need.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    Just a quick question, if i put a 110 mm conrod in this means the displacement is now over 130.5 CC i put a 110 mm conrod with a .5mm oversize piston the displacement is now 137.8 right? so i really need a 105mm rod max with a .5 mm overbore even then its 131.5 CC? how anal should i be on following these rules?

    i have been trying to sort parts but at the moment its near impossible to get anything so may have to wait a few weeks then source what i need.
    conrod length doesnt effect stroke, only the crankpin offset does.
    With a longer rod, the piston goes up higher at both BDC and TDC.
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  13. #73
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    1st June 2014 - 21:23
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    Alright, Thanks for clarifying that!

    Now I think about it, that makes sense...
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  14. #74
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    How's the build going
    i'm over buckets

  15. #75
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    Have bearings for the frame on order, everything is seriously slow at the minute, should get it rolling next week if I get the parts. I am waiting for level 2 so I can go into the shop and order a conrod and piston I want to make sure they get the right year parts.

    Have the stearing head bearings here waiting on swing arm bearings, and fork seals

    I am looking at a ts185 conrod and yz125 piston I forget the year. Seems to be the newest piston that fits the bore and in a range of sizes

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