Super Cheap had Katana batteries the highest CCA 190 , i need at least stock 210CCA
Super Cheap had Katana batteries the highest CCA 190 , i need at least stock 210CCA
i drive past a Yuasa centre most days i will check They do list a yt14b bs
Just been offered a new YTZ14s for pretty much half price including GST
Awesome result!
Nunquam Non Paratus
Did think about a Lithium tho if this didnt come thru, had a look on the Shorai and Fastbikes sites and read up a bit about these type of batteries and the type of chargers needed.
Got me thinking if there were riders that went to the Brass or ColdKiwi (not this year of course) and if they had said batt how did they go starting up in a gnarly frost ?
Also riders who live down at the lower south island and ride at this time of year how well do their bikes start up to, seeing lithiums dont like initial starting when its cold.
Apparently the first starting attempt is slow, but then the power comes up (battery temperature rise or something) and then they spin up ok. I wanted to get a Lithium batt for the KLR but I understand they require fairly sophisticated charge regulation and the KLR is pretty crude in that (and most other) respects
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/arti...20below%20this.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Yeah nah. This inspired me to dredge up some old info from my experiments/experience.
One of the start attempts (Winter) on my Speed Triple took 7 minutes, 48 seconds. I'd previously tried all the turning on ignition/lights variations as per instructions but to no avail. The only thing I found helped was to create a massive draw (starter) which in turn would scavenge a .05v-.06v increase to the battery. Hardly practical taking several start attempts over several minutes, not to mention stress on the start system.
The second replacement battery Shorai sent me was larger and certainly an improvement over the first two, but then when my stator died, it also damaged the battery due to over-discharge. They don't like to fall below 12.86v, something that wouldn't bother a lead-acid. On the plus side, that battery did heal itself (sort-of) and is still currently working (Aug 2011) in a Daytona 675 track bike. New owner loves it.
I'll stick with lead-acid.
Nunquam Non Paratus
In the olden days motorcycles had things call kick starters. They work wonderfully well . I'd stick with lead acid as well. I get 5 years usage even from the cheapest ones,
A lithium battery should include a battery management system (BMS) that among other things, prevents damage to the cells if the voltage drops too low. Last time I looked, Shorai batteries didn't include this feature.
The R1 has a 4 year old Yuasa. It sat for nearly 3 months earlier this year without being started, so I hooked up a smart charger to top it up. The charger spent a few minutes doing its thing and decided the battery was fully charged.
They definitely prefer being warmed up first - basically trying and failing to start. I've had a Shorai in my R1200GSA since 2012 ish. Did one of the MMMMM rides and it was sub zero overnight in Matawai with the BMW outside unprotected, frost on seats etc. Took 5 starts before it had enough juice to get the bike going. The laughter from the others on the first start of a single turn - uuh - was eventually silenced.
I've since bought the Shorai charger, and now that the BMW is off the road each winter, I put the battery on the BMS to keep it in top nick. Coz of that investment, I'll probably get more Shorai down the line, but the golden rule is: Ignore what they suggest (often based on matching OEM and considering weight). Get the biggest one that will fit in the box. When I bought the GSA one, I bought a smaller one first, then they increased their recommendation twice. It had a packer in the bottom of the battery area, took that out and squeezed a bigger one in.
Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
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