Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 32

Thread: CB250F Hornet Clutch Replacement

  1. #16
    Join Date
    1st September 2007 - 21:01
    Bike
    1993 Yamaha FJ 1200
    Location
    Paradise
    Posts
    14,126
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    Yes they are loose in the basket, i can move them back and fourth. Is this normal?

    I was thinking to pick up a torque wrench tomorrow and just use that.
    The springs you removed hold the plates together. The clutch lever puts tension on the springs and releases the plates making firm contact. Disengaging the engine/gearbox connection. So yes loose (now) is expected.

    The four threaded mounts for the springs will be attached to the back of the clutch. The circular recessed plate the springs press on should come straight out. And the slotted clutch basket stays in place. You might try levering them gently out with flat screwdrivers either side of the basket. On all eight clutch tab points in succession. The keywords are ... firm but gentle.

    Might work.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    3rd February 2004 - 08:11
    Bike
    1982 Suzuki GS1100GK, 2008 KLR650
    Location
    Wallaceville, Upper hutt
    Posts
    5,049
    Blog Entries
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    this photo might make it clear. There's a housing covering the plates, and each time I try loosen it, it moves. I've put it into first gear and held down the rear brake but also no luck.

    I've also tried to use a breaker bar to try get it loose, but no luck as well.

    Let me know what you think.
    Well thats different to what I was expecting. Manuals lib has a Hornet 160 manual and the clutch looks similar. Have a look at this and see if it helps
    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16...age=144#manual
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  3. #18
    Join Date
    18th October 2018 - 15:38
    Bike
    2016 Aprilia Tuono v4 Factory
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    The springs you removed hold the plates together. The clutch lever puts tension on the springs and releases the plates making firm contact. Disengaging the engine/gearbox connection. So yes loose (now) is expected.

    The four threaded mounts for the springs will be attached to the back of the clutch. The circular recessed plate the springs press on should come straight out. And the slotted clutch basket stays in place. You might try levering them gently out with flat screwdrivers either side of the basket. On all eight clutch tab points in succession. The keywords are ... firm but gentle.

    Might work.
    so the 27mm does not need to come off? I just need to use a flat head screw driver and leverage it out?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    1st September 2007 - 21:01
    Bike
    1993 Yamaha FJ 1200
    Location
    Paradise
    Posts
    14,126
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    so the 27mm does not need to come off? I just need to use a flat head screw driver and leverage it out?
    Maybe. Try it. And be gentle. Two screwdrivers ... one each side.

    The center one usually allows the removal of the basket. It's removal is usually not needed.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    3rd February 2004 - 08:11
    Bike
    1982 Suzuki GS1100GK, 2008 KLR650
    Location
    Wallaceville, Upper hutt
    Posts
    5,049
    Blog Entries
    4
    I'd say that nut definitely needs to come off. Look at the service manual link I posted - even though its for a CB160 it looks pretty similar to what you have. Also the parts diagram makes it pretty obvious the nut holds it all together
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  6. #21
    Join Date
    18th October 2018 - 15:38
    Bike
    2016 Aprilia Tuono v4 Factory
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    I'd say that nut definitely needs to come off. Look at the service manual link I posted - even though its for a CB160 it looks pretty similar to what you have. Also the parts diagram makes it pretty obvious the nut holds it all together
    Yes the nut needed to come off. No way around this.

    I used a impact torque wrench and it came off easy as.

    Put the new plates in, in the same order they came out. Clutch is in - now just cleaning the surface, need to make sure it’s smooth for the seal to hold properly.

    Hoping for no leaks!

    Cheers

  7. #22
    Join Date
    18th October 2018 - 15:38
    Bike
    2016 Aprilia Tuono v4 Factory
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    Yes the nut needed to come off. No way around this.

    I used a impact torque wrench and it came off easy as.

    Put the new plates in, in the same order they came out. Clutch is in - now just cleaning the surface, need to make sure it’s smooth for the seal to hold properly.

    Hoping for no leaks!

    Cheers
    Is someone just able to confirm, when I put the springs back in, the clutch plates should not move?

    When they were out, the plates would move back and fourth. But with them in now, they don’t.

    Cheers

  8. #23
    Join Date
    18th October 2018 - 15:38
    Bike
    2016 Aprilia Tuono v4 Factory
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    67
    alright, here's some more drama.

    Put the cover on, and then connected the clutch cable but the clutch feels so light, there's no 'resistance'. It's almost like the clutch isn't connected.

    Now I opened it up again, and checked the movement of the piece the cable connects to (reference in photo) and it seems to be ok. The 'thing' the clutch cable connects to also seems to be out a little, is this normal?


    The long thing, inside the clutch cover (sorry no idea what it's called) seems to go back and fourth fine when I try move it. The flat head piece inside the clutch cover moves in and out fine.

    Do I just need to readjust the clutch cable? Since I've put in new plates?

    Thanks!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    18th October 2018 - 15:38
    Bike
    2016 Aprilia Tuono v4 Factory
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    alright, here's some more drama.

    Put the cover on, and then connected the clutch cable but the clutch feels so light, there's no 'resistance'. It's almost like the clutch isn't connected.

    Now I opened it up again, and checked the movement of the piece the cable connects to (reference in photo) and it seems to be ok. The 'thing' the clutch cable connects to also seems to be out a little, is this normal?


    The long thing, inside the clutch cover (sorry no idea what it's called) seems to go back and fourth fine when I try move it. The flat head piece inside the clutch cover moves in and out fine.

    Do I just need to readjust the clutch cable? Since I've put in new plates?

    Thanks!

    sorry

    here are the photos
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	121662635_758509331398635_2184074035131408676_n.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	184.2 KB 
ID:	347510   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	121666292_257881262321180_5826572955915557960_n.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	240.6 KB 
ID:	347511   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	121662635_2707300842850651_9009401668839791425_n.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	334.3 KB 
ID:	347512  

  10. #25
    Join Date
    1st September 2007 - 21:01
    Bike
    1993 Yamaha FJ 1200
    Location
    Paradise
    Posts
    14,126
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    Is someone just able to confirm, when I put the springs back in, the clutch plates should not move?

    When they were out, the plates would move back and fourth. But with them in now, they don’t.

    Cheers
    The clutchplates shouldn't move with the springs on ... UNTIL you pull the clutch lever in.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    1st September 2007 - 21:01
    Bike
    1993 Yamaha FJ 1200
    Location
    Paradise
    Posts
    14,126
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    ... Do I just need to readjust the clutch cable? Since I've put in new plates?

    Thanks!
    Yes. The Clutch cable needs adjustment as the clutch plates wear. With new plates ... the cable needs adjustment in the other direction.

    Looks like you're getting it done. Well done you.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    18th October 2018 - 15:38
    Bike
    2016 Aprilia Tuono v4 Factory
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    The clutchplates shouldn't move with the springs on ... UNTIL you pull the clutch lever in.
    Ok so just for my own understanding, the clutch cable is attached to that long rod thing and when you pull it in - does it release or pull the clutch plates?

    Excuse my beginner self!

    Appreciate it

  13. #28
    Join Date
    1st September 2007 - 21:01
    Bike
    1993 Yamaha FJ 1200
    Location
    Paradise
    Posts
    14,126
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    Ok so just for my own understanding, the clutch cable is attached to that long rod thing and when you pull it in - does it release or pull the clutch plates?

    Excuse my beginner self!

    Appreciate it
    Pretty much yes.

    Sometimes it takes wee a bit of adjusting to get it right.

    Adjust it to take up the slack in the cable ... but not so it has tension on the cable with your hand OFF the clutch.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  14. #29
    Join Date
    18th October 2018 - 15:38
    Bike
    2016 Aprilia Tuono v4 Factory
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    Pretty much yes.

    Sometimes it takes wee a bit of adjusting to get it right.

    Adjust it to take up the slack in the cable ... but not so it has tension on the cable with your hand OFF the clutch.
    Thank you to everyone that’s helped me with this; first time doing this stuff and I’ve been quite something! As I expected, relatively straight forward but I always expect the odd issues to come up.

    Now another issue! So everything’s on, put the clutch cover on, tightened the bolts to spec, and adjusted the clutch cable. All seems ok! Put some oil in and let her run. She ran just fine..

    Now, it definitely isn’t slipping anymore which is great but I can’t get into neutral. It’s virtually impossible. It’s super stiff. When riding, it goes into 2nd 3rd etc easily but can’t flick it into neutral. HOWEVER, if I turn the bike off, it goes into neutral like nothing!

    Any idea what I’ve done wrong this time?

    Cheers guys

  15. #30
    Join Date
    1st September 2007 - 21:01
    Bike
    1993 Yamaha FJ 1200
    Location
    Paradise
    Posts
    14,126
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by mnishi View Post
    ... Any idea what I’ve done wrong this time?

    Cheers guys
    Go down into first gear ... then gently ease it up into neutral.

    I doubt it's anything you've done wrong. Any free play in the clutch cable when the clutch lever is fully released .. ??

    Finding neutral is a common issue on some bikes. When the plates bed in bit it often usually improves.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •