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Thread: 2001 R6 stator wire re-solder

  1. #1
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    4th July 2009 - 11:59
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    2001 R6 stator wire re-solder

    As you know, the R6 stator has three white leads, each of which gathers in enamaled wires from the windings. I have found a break in one of these leads, about 2 cm downstream from the point where it gathers its feeder enamaled wires from off the wndings. (The rest of the stator looks good. No charring. I only bought it new in March 2019, and it has only done about 10,000 km before the break.) The wiring of the other two white leads looks to be fine.

    I am going to look for a stator wiring guy and see if they can re-solder the enamaled wires. I can solder ordinary wires but have never dealt with enamaled wires before.

    Does anyone know of any good Auckland electrical stator repair shops?

    Thanks!
    Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.

  2. #2
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    4th July 2009 - 11:59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odakyu-sen View Post
    As you know, the R6 stator has three white leads, each of which gathers in enamaled wires from the windings. I have found a break in one of these leads, about 2 cm downstream from the point where it gathers its feeder enamaled wires from off the wndings. (The rest of the stator looks good. No charring. I only bought it new in March 2019, and it has only done about 10,000 km before the break.) The wiring of the other two white leads looks to be fine.

    I am going to look for a stator wiring guy and see if they can re-solder the enamaled wires. I can solder ordinary wires but have never dealt with enamaled wires before.

    Does anyone know of any good Auckland electrical stator repair shops?

    Thanks!
    Here's a photo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.

  3. #3
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    28th May 2006 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odakyu-sen View Post
    Here's a photo.
    enamelled wires as you call them are just ordinary wires with enamel on them, more likely varnish here
    the key to it is heating it nought to solder, without the heat travelling along it and damaging more varnish causing a problem. I'd be looking at a tiny strip connector with the insulation removed, the screw grooves lined up perpendicular to the main body and lock wired that way once tight. Then the whole lot insulated again, maybe self amalgamating tape, of if you can that fibreglass stuff that's on there at the moment.
    it'll be fun whatever you do

  4. #4
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    2nd March 2018 - 15:32
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    My first suggestion is to remove the insulation from both sides of the break so you can see what has happened.

    That photo is exactly how you found it?

    Sent from my SM-G980F using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    4th July 2009 - 11:59
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    Quote Originally Posted by SaferRides View Post

    That photo is exactly how you found it?
    Yes. It is. I don't want to disturb anything at this stage. Am gathering information about repair options.
    Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.

  6. #6
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    2nd March 2018 - 15:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odakyu-sen View Post
    Yes. It is. I don't want to disturb anything at this stage. Am gathering information about repair options.
    You will probably only get one chance to fix this, so your plan is a good one. I'm not able to recommend anyone, but hopefully someone else should be to help. Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-G980F using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    4th July 2009 - 11:59
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    Hello All,

    Backstory time.
    I bought my R6 brand new in December of 2001. She has 164,000 km and has never been dropped (apart from the time I lost my footing in the gravel when stationary on the side of the road and had to lay her down gently).

    Her chief weakness has been an appetite for stators. No other mechanical or electrical issues at all.

    Some 10 years ago I had to get the original stator rewound.

    Then, in March 2019 the stator blew again. This time it was burnt in places. Being a cheap bastard, I bought an after-market Chinese stator from the Yamaha distributor, which fitted without any problems. Now, 10,000 km and 2 and a half years later, one of the stator's three leads has broken near its base.

    It have decided to throw money at the problem and make it go away. I dropped the stator off at Auto Electrical Spares at 25 Paramount Drive in Henderson this morning (0800 478 278). They will completely rewind the stator. I assume that they will use better quality wire than the fragile junk of the original. This will also eliminate any other minor (and unknown) cracks becoming future breaks and really pissing me off. They will replace all the windings and get the job done once and for all.

    I hope that the rewound stator will be superior in quality to the original. It will be cheaper than buying another Chinese aftermarket stator and will likely last a lot longer.

    I am replacing the 9-year-old battery. I have checked the rectifier. It is okay. I will check the voltage across the charging battery to confirm that the regulator is okay.

    I'll let you know how I get on. The bike is in my garage and I am working on it myself. It's not hard to do.
    Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.

  8. #8
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    2nd March 2018 - 15:32
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    Yes, I thought it was a Chinese stator. One other thing you could do is replace the original reg/rec with a MOSFET. The FH020AA should be a direct replacement, although you may have to change the plug.

    I fitted one to my '99 R1 as the original reg/rec was faulty when I bought the bike 7 years ago. The battery I fitted at the time is fine, and the original stator is still good at 130,000 km.

    If you do fit one, make sure it is genuine. A number of bikes have them fitted as standard, including the later model R1. I bought mine from a seller on Ebay along with a wiring kit.

    Sent from my SM-G980F using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    There are real Shindengen mosfet regulators and there are a lot of fake ones. A genuine Yamaha one from a dealer should be ok
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  10. #10
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    I have tested the rectifier and it's okay. I'll check the regulator function once the bike is back together by comparing the charging voltage across the battery at idle and at 5,000 rpm. If they are about the same, then I'll know that the regulator is okay. If the voltage goes up to over 16 volts, then I'll need a new reg/rectifier. Fingers crossed.
    Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.

  11. #11
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    2nd March 2018 - 15:32
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    You will be less likely to burn out the stator with a MOSFET reg/rec. That's why I suggested it.

    The voltage at 5,000 rpm should be higher than at idle, 14 - 14.5 V from memory. If the voltage drops with increasing revs, the reg/rec is faulty.

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  12. #12
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Its usually the stator cant keep up in the situation you describe. Either way if it is wound properly it should be fine as hes had some really good miles out of it with original set up.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
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  13. #13
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    4th July 2009 - 11:59
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Its usually the stator cant keep up in the situation you describe. Either way if it is wound properly it should be fine as hes had some really good miles out of it with original set up.
    I put the R6 back together. Everything fitted. No leakage around the stator cover or nasty whining noises. I think everything is okay. (Although the voltage across the battery seems a little low. I'll investigate further...)

    I should be good for 8-9 years until the R6 burns out the stator. (This time was the third stator in 20 years. They don't build them like they used to...
    Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.

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