Help I need somebody... 😫 Newby Questions where to start?

[Navy Boy]

I think so too..

i find it makes things rattle a bit less, clutch a bit smoother, and just generally nicer.

And its Aussie, so why not eh?

Yep - I use Penrite's too. Thers's at least 3 versions of their bike-specific 10W-40 available. Their plain mineral, a semi-synthetic and the super-duper PAO and Ester-based fully synthetic. There may also be a standard fully synth too though I can't recall off the top of my head.

For the 250 Volty I'd plump for the Mineral or, if you're feeling posh, a semi-synthetic. JASO-MA is a must and the API rating will probaly be SL or higher. That should be fine for the Volty's motor. I run my DR650 on the Semi-synth 10W-50 and it seems to be fine.

[Dave79]

Thankyou guys,

I picked up the oil filter, o-ring seal and a new oil filler cap from Coleman's this afternoon and will go and buy the oil from Supercheap tomorrow.

Ginge, I located the battery and it looks fairly new so that was a nice surprise as the rest of the bike looks fairly old 😀

I went for another ride yesterday out to Piha Beach which ive been wanting to do ever since I bought the bike (last Thursday) it felt great, even rode through the rain on the way back, I definitely need to invest in some wet weather gear ⚙ though.

The fork is still leaking slightly so will have to eventually get ut looked at.
Not sure if there are many motorcycle mechanics out near where I stay but will have a look.

I'm going to attempt the oil change this weekend as I'm sure it's due for one and will be good for piece of mind 😌

Thanks again. Dave

[iYRe]

There's heaps of mechanics out your way, a good one in Kelston, but I cant remember his name. I would use George from Motorcycle Doctors, he'll give you a fair assessment of your bike and fix the stuff that really needs fixing.

[Dave79]

Thanks again guys, Supercheap has the Penrite full synthetic 10w40 for $72 for 4 litres so I'll go buy that and then have enough for another change six moths from now also.

Cheers. Dave.

[Ginge09]

Warm the bike up for a couple of minutes before you drop the oil out. Warm oil flows better and carries a bit more junk out of the system I reckon.

[george formby]

Thanks again guys, Supercheap has the Penrite full synthetic 10w40 for $72 for 4 litres so I'll go buy that and then have enough for another change six moths from now also.

Cheers. Dave.

Er, do a bit of homework before you spring for fully synth. Dinosaur or semi synth is recommended.

I have a 98 Yamaha with an engine which started life in the late 80's. If I use full synthetic the clutch slips if I give it the berries.

Hopefully someone will chime in with more info.

[Blackbird]

Er, do a bit of homework before you spring for fully synth. Dinosaur or semi synth is recommended.

I have a 98 Yamaha with an engine which started life in the late 80's. If I use full synthetic the clutch slips if I give it the berries.

Hopefully someone will chime in with more info.

One factor is that some, if not all, car synthetics have different additive packages compared with bike lubricants. Taking the motorcycle version of Mobil 1 for example, it has one item omitted that's in the car version. This is because that particular additive may cause wet clutches to slip. As others have indicated, the use of a semi-synthetic or multigrade might be better suited, as well as cheaper. Full synthetics also do a great job of removing contaminants from the engine. Unfortunately, if you have carbon build-up round oils seals on higher k engines, they may well leak. We experienced this on the first MX5 my wife owned after we switched to Mobil1.

[george formby]

One factor is that some, if not all, car synthetics have different additive packages compared with bike lubricants. Taking the motorcycle version of Mobil 1 for example, it has one item omitted that's in the car version. This is because that particular additive may cause wet clutches to slip. As others have indicated, the use of a semi-synthetic or multigrade might be better suited, as well as cheaper. Full synthetics also do a great job of removing contaminants from the engine. Unfortunately, if you have carbon build-up round oils seals on higher k engines, they may well leak. We experienced this on the first MX5 my wife owned after we switched to Mobil1.

Yup, I've heard of the seal issue. Even worse if you decide diesel oil will do.

After finding out the clutch slip problem on my bike was due to the synthetic oil I went for cheap and cheerful bike specific mineral oil.

It was not an instant fix, took 2 oil changes for the problem to go away.

I just use cheap, random, semi synth now which meets the correct spec and change often.

[Dave79]

Hey guys,

I ended up buying Motul 4T 5100 10W40 Technosynthese as I went back to the bike shop to have a look and thought whilst I'm there get the oil that they had on the shelf.
Hopefully this particular oil will be ok?

The guy at the shop said it is semi-synth so I bought a 2litre and planning on changing the oil and filter tomorrow (Friday) as I have the day off. Hopefully this oil won't cause the clutch to slip?

Thanks again. Dave

[Blackbird]

Motul 5100 is what I used on several of my later model bikes over the last decade or so. It has a mineral base and you should be fine. It's more than you actually need though. The earlier Penrite suggestions were spot on.

[SaferRides]

Hey guys,

I ended up buying Motul 4T 5100 10W40 Technosynthese as I went back to the bike shop to have a look and thought whilst I'm there get the oil that they had on the shelf.
Hopefully this particular oil will be ok?

The guy at the shop said it is semi-synth so I bought a 2litre and planning on changing the oil and filter tomorrow (Friday) as I have the day off. Hopefully this oil won't cause the clutch to slip?

Thanks again. Dave

That will be absolutely fine for your bike. The only issue with Motul can be cost, but that is more to do with bike shop profit margins than the oil itself.



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[roogazza]

Some monkey tightened this sump plug by the looks ?

remember tights ,tight , broken is too tight !!!! lol

As you progress you'll get the feel for it .

[pritch]

Hey guys,
I ended up buying Motul 4T 5100 10W40

Motul is fine, I've used their products in my last four bikes. When you get a manual you should be able to check the manufacturer's recommendations as to grade. Meantime what you've bought should be fine.

[Moi]

Have you downloaded the workshop manual?

It'll give you a lot of help with doing those jobs you may want to tackle yourself.

[Dave79]

Hi guys, did the oil/filter change and on the bike with the help of a friend who's experienced with bikes which was great and on the actual bike it sais "1300ml" but online it said if changing filter then it will require 1400ml all up so I went down the middle and refilled with 1350 as that still showed high on the oil sight window, another 50ml will put it over full going by the window when the bikes level which is tricky as it doesn't have a centrestand. Hopefully it's the right adequate amount?

I was rechecking oil level this morning and going round the bike in general and I've noticed a Crack in one of the two headpipes right near where it goes into the head.

Is there something I can put around it to stop it getting worse? Or anything that will fill it etc?
It's a fine crack around about half the diameter of the pipe

Thanks again guys I've learnt so much already from everyone and really do appreciate it.

Cheers. Dave.