I want to see the video where you form them explosively in the dies.
I want to see the video where you form them explosively in the dies.
AG100 still running, a number if events under its belt now, seems reliable. Here just massaging the advance curve a little.
The water cooled, twin powervalve cylinder slowly getting
closer to reality.
Performance vs std? Any match up comparisons?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No, nothing to match up against
To be fair Dave, two optimized cylinders would have to be made by someone that knows what they are doing, one with eye ports and one with twin exhaust ports.
With optimized pipes to suit, for an accurate answer.
I was meaning compared to an AG.
Sounds great on YouTube. Does it create a stir?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
AG100, No comparison.
Most see it as an oddity, which it is, but yes once its heard running, generally plenty of questions.
Blackwood Yamaha have another AG100 to sponsor me. This will allow me to build a second water cooled bike without wreaking this one.
Ive found that the ignition was retarded too early, on adjustment the transition into the power is much better, almost a pleasure to ride now.
It will be interesting to see how the water cooled engine with new 'proper pipe pressings' and twin blade powervalves performs. Might need to make an EN39B gearbox for that one, AG gears are not very robust looking.
Interesting to see ignition curves!
I guess your bike starts to reso at about 6000 und its peak power is, where 15 dregree is set...!?
But why setting a flatout with 15 degree?
In my understanding this overheating gases in zylinder, while further the piston is in compression cycle....ouch 😞
Causing risk of detonation and killingoverev. ..
Better to minimize advance after peak in a falling advance cirve to 10 degree...then do a flatout...like wobbly advice somewhere in eses.... 😀
I bet you are gaining lots of overev and engine will live longer 😉
Grüße Wolfgang
I dont know exactly, its never been near a dyno. This is what just feels and sounds right.
It did the final round of our Vinduro NZ, still running and didn't embarrass itself.
Okok
We have been never near a dyno for years too!
Cempeting in german/ european classic enduro Championship with 125 TGM and 75 cc HRD...next time with Puch Frigerio rotax-124, all from beginning of the 80ties 😉
And now we recogniced...our feeling for peak power or reso begin is only between 700 to 1000 rounds per minute precise...even with chainsaw rev mesurement 😞
Only 3 degree to high after real peak power and we lost lots of overev
Do your bike and yourself a favour 😀 one time on a dyno and i am sure you find better ignition settings
By the way...best luck in tuning and racing 😀
Grüße Wolfgang
Yes husa...and there is a Script from Frits in german
To download here
https://www.google.com/url?q=https:/...6-DywfYmM_B4OH
But in enduro use we do not use 30 degree in lower revs, to have better drivability under reso thats necessary for trial passages in enduro
Fix points for every engine are
- 15 degree only at the moment off peak power
- begin of falling from high advance (for example 30 degree in frits curve) in area round reso begin
My experience is that aircooled are more senitive and critical with to high advance everywhere and not every bike likes 30 degree before resonance...you recogniced this in rough behavior... slightly a knocking...instead of clean smooth reving higher and higher...
Grüße Wolfgang
Grüße Wolfgang
Our curve for Example for you fellows ��
Black curve ...you have to add 5* cause of a offset
resonance begin 6200 rpm 27*
Peak power at 10250 15*
Then a falling of about 5* within next 1200 rpm
Grüße! Wolfgang
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