Donor Gearboxes

[F5 Dave]

So what is wine choice tonight?

I'm a heathen and on a batch brew IPA we did at local brewery in a class. It's several steps away from home brew. Could do with a bit more fizz. Might leave it a week.

Enjoying this thread.

[pete376403]

Is there /was there a "what are you drinking right now" thread? So as not to derail (derailleur - geddit?) this gearbox one. (however, a Keruru "Country Mile" America Amber Ale is washing down pizza)

[F5 Dave]

Not far from you then. I've move to Heart of Darkness. The Agent.

TBH it's much better than what we made. 2 cans down.

Must get back to Brewtown. Just a distance.

[el chupacabra]

I've made the changes, it was not as bad as i though, when you think about a KR1 motor, they are massively offset to one side.

Here is an overlay of the original Triumph motor.

[el chupacabra]

I didn’t see the latest replies before I posted, usually it’s a Shiraz, ‘jam shed’ is my favourite right now but tonight it’s sugar free Pepsi and Bacardi haha.

I feel red wine improves my creativity.

[jato]

There's the clue everyone - send kx cylinders and casks of cheap red and then we can sit back and see what emerges...

[el chupacabra]

So assembling this will have a 'funny'. the lay-shaft will have to be installed and then the cassette placed on after the fact as the part the cassette bolts to will interfere with the 40 tooth gear. I've chosen to put the NJ roller bearing on the RHS to make assembly easier and an adequate ball bearing would be too big.

Everything is still looking thick and heavy at this stage. The only problem with going too thin is it may cause issues with the aluminium 'freezing' during the pour. I'll double check but Im sure some of the sections on the V twin I cast poured ok at around 4mm thick.

[el chupacabra]

1/3 scale

[el chupacabra]

I’m wondering about how I’m going to do the coolant flow, I think it’s going to enter under the exhaust on the cases and work up to the cylinder head and then back to the radiator to simplify plumbing. I’ll try and place the feed so the distance from the pump to each pair of cylinders is equal.
This has me thinking about water pumps and my options. Any feedback or ideas would be welcome, especially as to what is and isn’t important or common failures you may know of.

Option 1 - make my own pump housing and impeller with 2 outlets, using standard seals and a bearing, run it direct drive from the LHS end of the layshaft. This will mean I will have roughly equal flow out to each pair of cylinders.

Option 2 - same as option one but tucked away under the motor and belt driven off the LH end of the layshaft.

Option 3 - use a pre existing pump either on the end of the lay shaft or belt driven under the motor, the problem being I will have to divide the flow with a tee. Pros are easy to replace and I could use one with sealed bearing so it can be under the motor. Also this means less custom parts.

China has a whole heap or maybe I use one off a gsxr 600 or the like with sealed bearings. The later gsxr ones just seem to have a plain bearing. Maybe I could make just the inner housing for a later gsxr one as they are so cheap or at least use the seals and impeller.

[jato]

SV650 pump - twin outlet , common, easy. they run anti- clockwise looking at the inlet of the impellor which may influence where it is fitted. 50 or 60 % of engine speed should be plenty of flow... you'll likely want to make your own back plate with outlets aiming the right direction.

[jato]

16 usd plus no doubt heaps of freight https://www.ebay.com/itm/401832873308?

[husaberg]

R1 includes the oil pump


R^6


it seems to be common to uprate these water pumps
BMW S1000rr Water Pump


https://jetprime.com.au/jetprime-enl...r-xr-2009-2018

[Kickaha]

Davies Craig remote electric pump, thermo switch controlled and can be set to have a cool down period when you switch off

[el chupacabra]

I know a 600 moves around 60L/min @10,000rpm, I'm torn between the booster pump from Craig Davies 30L/min and using an R6 water pump geared somewhere off of the gearbox or crank, I know that spinning it at 1:1 will be far too much so I cant run it directly on the end of the crank, extra losses and maybe cavitation will be consequences. I know slow water will leave HP on the table but slow down development. That electric water pump looks very tempting.

Or maybe I can do something like this. even though it is 1:1 . . .




Hmmmmm. . . after writing this I've decided electric pump it is. Why add a whole other custom assembly when I don't even have a finished prototype. High performance can come later.

Now I can Ignore all of my worries associated with cooling the engine and move onto cleaning up the model, potentially making some patterns and the crank coupler blanks and maybe the lay shaft, should the lay shaft also be en36 or will plain old 4140 be sufficient?

[Grumph]

EN36 Hardens nicely and better core strength.