Kruger-Dunning Parts n Service
What’s up with the seemingly much higher rear wheel but torque specs these days, it seems in space of 20 years spec has doubled on what was used on similar horsepower bike and nut size.
Do you go by feel sometimes or always follow manufacturer spec????
Govt gives you nothing because it creates nothing - Javier Milei
Kiwibiker
For rear wheel nut, ive traditionally gone by feel, but now I own my first Italian bike, ive gone to using a toque wrench. When I asked the local Aprillia workshop where to go to get my ancient wrench calibrated, they initially looked surprised, then just shrugged their shoulders and replied "just use it". So I do.
Embracing mediocrity
On a bike with a chain, more power/torque = more pull on the axle, so more torque on the nut to hold it?Originally Posted by R650R
For most stuff I'm happy with feels about right, but where it involves things that might get squashed or bearings wrongly loaded if tightened too much I'll use a torque wrench. Then again, most people who've swung spanners for long enough will have a pretty good feel for it anyway.
Air New Zealand Calibration or Strainer Systems can check torque wrenches, it probably costs as much as buying a new one though. If you just want to check that it's near enough then a known weight or digital scale at a measured distance along the handle will answer that, back to first principles....
Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987
Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->
Forum whore
Maximum axle nut torque for me is what I could undo with the tools in the standard kit. If need be I want to be able to undo on the trail or roadside, with the tools I am carrying.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Kruger-Dunning Parts n Service
Some good replies here, all along the various realms of possibilities kicking around upstairs.
Govt gives you nothing because it creates nothing - Javier Milei
L-Plate Rider
When I was doing my apprenticeship , the local gasket distributor put an educational evening on, to explain why the head gasket failure rate was high . The explanation was that there wasn’t enough compression (crush ) on the gaskets .
The best explanation was to screw the cleaned thread bolts down to correct reading = a 1 ton truck downward force , next was oil the threads and screw the bolts down to the correct reading = a 2 ton truck downward force , now oil the threads and oil both sides of the bolt washer and screw the bolts down to the correct reading = a 3 ton truck downward force .
So another thing I did notice was not to chuck the torque wrench in the tool box ( like my boss did ) with all the other big tools there is a reason why a lot of good torque wrenches come in a blow moulded case .
http://geoffjames.blogspot.com
This is what John Cadogan has to say about lubricating threads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POcOaW7mTsg
In the riders seat
HTC have a mobile service, they do our big ones every 6 months, we replace our small ones at the same intervals as the cost to replace is not much more than a new one
We torque to manufacturers specs which are generally always "dry" not once in several decades have we seen any literature or been informed about reducing the torque when using anti seize, copper cote etc
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Till it strips and gingerly back it off half a turn hoping no one noticed.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
L-Plate Rider
when I do a head gasket job on most modern motors these days the head bolts are torque to yield , which means they are single use only . The new head bolts package comes complete with a tube of lube and instructions so I guess it is important enough to lube the bolts and washers
Embracing mediocrity
Yep, the wee ones cost about the same as calibrating them, when I used to work in a cal lab one fail and they were gone.
Hence the quick and dirty check it yourself method, it will pick up if it's out by a huge amount, which a lot of mechanic ones were when we checked them. About the worst I saw was 20lbf.ft when indicating 80, no wonder the flywheel bolts fell out....
It matters for them, because they are relying on the bolt stretch to maintain the gasket compression. If the threads bind when torquing or adding the extra 90° after the torque value there's a good chance the bolts are fucked before you've even started it up.
Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987
Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->
His Excellency
Great service from Tim at HTC today. Had seven units tested and calibrated. An interesting fact came up today while watching a 3/4 get checked.
The output reading on the computer dropped as it "loosened up". Tim said it takes about 5 operations for the spring to settle. Our wheel wrench gets used every day, and still it will read at the high side of 4% tolerance.
Also, look after them. Don't throw them in the toolbox. Or let muppets in field ute lie them in mud etc. The Norbar is 35yrs old and th W+Bs are easily 25.
"channellling the Pleideans"
everybody carries a compressor and rattlegun (and a generator) in their backpacks though. I know I do. anything less is just unprepared.
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
Forum whore
I've never had a wheel come loose and move when in service. The bikes I have are either shaft drive (so there is no possibility of the rear wheel moving from its fixed location) or so underpowered (KLR) that engine power will never move the wheel. In both cases the combination of swingarm, caliper mount, spacers and bearing inner races provide effectively a solid piece for the bolt to tighten on. There is no provision for movement dependant on the bolt tension unless grossly under-tightened.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
L-Plate Rider
Don’t forget the oil can although one can get by, by using the screwdriver down the oil filler hole or using the oil hanging off the dipstick if the bike is so equipped
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