Bike dies when lights turned on.

[F5 Dave]

That has got to be frustrating. Have you sold the other one?

Points and me are not acquainted particularly.

What are the different modes the points capacitor can die? I'd be focusing my attention to that 4" area. And somehow the wiring of the lighting coils vs the ignition coil.

[pete376403]

I'm sure you would have, but, if you have to keep cleaning the plug, sounds sorta like a weak spark, not firing completely - new coil and consenser fitted? Can you see any arcing at the points when it does run?

[Laava]

That has got to be frustrating. Have you sold the other one?

Points and me are not acquainted particularly.

What are the different modes the points capacitor can die? I'd be focusing my attention to that 4" area. And somehow the wiring of the lighting coils vs the ignition coil.

Yep, sold the other one a while back. It did not have the engine dying thing so not sure why this one does.

I'm sure you would have, but, if you have to keep cleaning the plug, sounds sorta like a weak spark, not firing completely - new coil and consenser fitted? Can you see any arcing at the points when it does run?

Yep it does seem like a weak spark but as I cannot see it when the engine is actually running, I only know what it looks when actuated manually. Have tried changing the coil and condensor with no change. The points look like they are operating normally and are brand new as is the backing plate, rectifier, stator, battery, ign switch, wiring loom and the chinese carb I bought in frustration as the std one just would not work. I put the chinese one on and it started, idled and ran perfectly. What has changed? I am fucked if I know…

[Grumph]

Definitely sounds like spark. You can test it crudely by pulling the cap off the lead and seeing how big a gap it will jump at cranking speed. Most old Hondas will jump about 8mm gap. Using a resistor cap ? Test it's resistance is as it says on the cap. They do go off. Don't use a resistor plug - R in the type code - as well as a resistor cap. Coil resistance as it says in the manual ?

[pete376403]

If the points are accessible (ie if the motor could run with the cover off) you could try running wire direct from the battery to the coil, and then the other side of the coil direct to the points - eliminate everything thats normally in between.

[Laava]

Definitely sounds like spark. You can test it crudely by pulling the cap off the lead and seeing how big a gap it will jump at cranking speed. Most old Hondas will jump about 8mm gap. Using a resistor cap ? Test it's resistance is as it says on the cap. They do go off. Don't use a resistor plug - R in the type code - as well as a resistor cap. Coil resistance as it says in the manual ?

I got a good 6mm spark jumping. Not what I would call a fat spark but it was there alright. It has a DR8ES plug. You reckon I should try just a D8ES if such a thing still exists? I havent checked coil resistance but did try swapping my new one out with one of my spares with the same result.
Bike is now at the point where it is not even running..
Tried swapping the carbs from the chinese one back to the rebuilt original…running out of enthusiasm..

If the points are accessible (ie if the motor could run with the cover off) you could try running wire direct from the battery to the coil, and then the other side of the coil direct to the points - eliminate everything thats normally in between.

Yep I did try that, spark is there just the same so it may not be that. Batt is at 6.2v, is that enough?
I do not have a compression tester that small so that is one more thing but maybe something else to consider down the track

Thanks for your input tho guys. I am going to concentrate on getting it clean and ready for the show and then maybe try again in a month or so…very frustrated.

[pete376403]

I got a good 6mm spark jumping. Not what I would call a fat spark but it was there alright. It has a DR8ES plug. You reckon I should try just a D8ES if such a thing still exists? I havent checked coil resistance but did try swapping my new one out with one of my spares with the same result.
Bike is now at the point where it is not even running..
Tried swapping the carbs from the chinese one back to the rebuilt original…running out of enthusiasm..


Yep I did try that, spark is there just the same so it may not be that. Batt is at 6.2v, is that enough?
I do not have a compression tester that small so that is one more thing but maybe something else to consider down the track

Thanks for your input tho guys. I am going to concentrate on getting it clean and ready for the show and then maybe try again in a month or so…very frustrated.

Not a 12 volt coil is it?

[Laava]

Not a 12 volt coil is it?

It is not marked as that but was sold as 6v. It has the branding smeared with a hot thing, prob as it is made in the same factory. The substitute one, that performed the same, is marked as 6v

[Grumph]

It is not marked as that but was sold as 6v. It has the branding smeared with a hot thing, prob as it is made in the same factory. The substitute one, that performed the same, is marked as 6v

The manual should quote a resistance value for the coil. Irrelevant if it's sold as 6 or 12 V.

[Laava]

I couldnt find a resistance value. They talk about the three point spark tester with the spark being 6mm but that is a factory workshopp tool…