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Thread: question for GS Suzuki expert, gurus. etc

  1. #1
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    question for GS Suzuki expert, gurus. etc

    I've got a complete, but rather neglected GS1100G. The head gasket that was installed is odd, three flat shims rivetted together, with no compressible material at all. I understand I should put in a new gasket (following the valve lap) but they are no longer made by Suzuki and aftermarket ones (Athena, Cometic, etc) arequite expensive. So, assuming no defects are found with the gasket, does the collective think that it would be ok to reuse?
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    I've got a complete, but rather neglected GS1100G. The head gasket that was installed is odd, three flat shims rivetted together, with no compressible material at all. I understand I should put in a new gasket (following the valve lap) but they are no longer made by Suzuki and aftermarket ones (Athena, Cometic, etc) arequite expensive. So, assuming no defects are found with the gasket, does the collective think that it would be ok to reuse?
    Yeah, clean up, repaint and reuse. They're called an MLS gasket - multi layer steel. Last version of OE Suzuki.

    Yanks swear by them. I prefer Cometic for race and hard use.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    I've got a complete, but rather neglected GS1100G. The head gasket that was installed is odd, three flat shims rivetted together, with no compressible material at all. I understand I should put in a new gasket (following the valve lap) but they are no longer made by Suzuki and aftermarket ones (Athena, Cometic, etc) arequite expensive. So, assuming no defects are found with the gasket, does the collective think that it would be ok to reuse?
    Lapping valves ! nice, something you don't hear of now days. I was a Mech in the sixties ,we lapped valves ! I recall relining brake shoes too haha.

    You'd never go hungry with Nigella Gaz.
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  4. #4
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    Think my 1100G had multi layer (as my X7 did a ways back. Think I had a new one though.

    I'd replace the valve seals too as it's a faff if the are duff.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  5. #5
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    Thanks all for that. New rings on the way, valve guide seals replaced. Valves "lapped" well (grinding sounds so coarse), they were leaking badly prior to the point that a garden hose down the port would leak into the chamber, They are all good now, nice narrow seats (within spec) and shimmed to 0.04 inlet and 0.06 exhaust. New inlet manifolds and carb kits installed. Still running stock header pipes although quite rusty. Aftermarket but stock looking mufflers. Front and rear brake calipers overhauled, 1100GK disks installed on cleaned up wheel, new kit in the front master cylinder, rear m/c is causing some grief. Brake hoses shouuld be replaced and really need new fork tubes and seals and before I know it this is not going be the bargain it started out.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by roogazza View Post
    Lapping valves ! nice, something you don't hear of now days. I was a Mech in the sixties ,we lapped valves ! I recall relining brake shoes too haha.
    Started diesel mech apprenticeship at GGH in 1970. Rivetted steering brake linings, lapped valves, shimmed liners to get correct protrusion from the block. Stuff that probably doesn't get done much now
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  7. #7
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    Starting to regret this... while waiting on the new rings, thought I'd take a look at the forks seeing as how the seals are stuffed and so on. Apparently parts of the bike have been attacked by an animal - socket head screws at the base of the forks rounded out AND drenched in loctite. Took the forks out of the yokes and drilled the bolt heads off, not too bad and the remainder of the bolt is out of the damper rod, but it seems the damping valve at the bottom of the fork tube is broken (ie bits fell out) and they are not shown as a seperate part. I ground off the tube where it is rolled over and extracted the valve, so theoretically it could be replaced if I could find another SO long story short, anyone got any GS 1000 or 1100 (maybe 850) forks (37mm diameter) in any condition to sell - bent is ok as I only need the valve assembly and the tapered aluminium spacer that goes into the damper rod.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  8. #8
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    I'd look for someone with a decent workshop and copy the good side

    You might get a response on the GSResources site.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    I'd look for someone with a decent workshop and copy the good side

    You might get a response on the GSResources site.
    Bro-in-law has a more than decent workshop. Copying the ally plug wouldn't be too hard, the valve and shim stack bit would be a lot more difficult. Aread been on GSresources, not much there that I could find. Not much on trademe either other than the 1100 at Rangiora but the forks aready gone, I've asked to see what other bits (1000 or 850) he might have
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  10. #10
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    These guys likely would be able to help https://sportsvalve.com/
    or if you are determined to do it yourself i expect a pair of damper rods from the same ID, similar travel and weight capacity forks could be fitted. edit - a quick lap of the workshop with verniers suggests a bit of time travel may be needed too - 37 is fairly puny...

  11. #11
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    Thanks, but it's not the damper rod, that is fine. There is a permanently fitted, shim-type valve about 50 mm from the bottom of the tube, and then the bottom of the tube is peened (rolled) over to set in place. I never knew such a thing existed prior to this . Pic may show better, recess in the fork tube is where the lower bush resides. The ally tapered bush that fits on the damper rod and goes in the centre of the valve is not in the pic. And 37mm is pretty skinny but thats how things were. The 1100GK has 41mm forks due to the additional weight they carried
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  12. #12
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    I'd give Bryce a call on Monday and explain your predicament. He had stuff left over from Buckets and Bits and now does Suspension.. he will know what you are talking about and may be able to lay his hands on the right bits.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Yeah, clean up, repaint and reuse. They're called an MLS gasket - multi layer steel. Last version of OE Suzuki.

    Yanks swear by them. I prefer Cometic for race and hard use.
    Any particular paint or coating you would recommend? It that all surfaces or just the top and bottom (ie should I remove the rivets and seperate and paint all the layers)? New rings have arrived so hone and reassemble to follow shortly.
    Then there is the matter of the wiring loom and PO modifications
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Any particular paint or coating you would recommend? It that all surfaces or just the top and bottom (ie should I remove the rivets and seperate and paint all the layers)? New rings have arrived so hone and reassemble to follow shortly.
    Then there is the matter of the wiring loom and PO modifications
    Clean off with a pot scourer. i've used black engine enamel for decades now but a local sidecar guy is pushing me to use a coppercoat based paint made for just this job. No need to separate the layers.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Clean off with a pot scourer. i've used black engine enamel for decades now but a local sidecar guy is pushing me to use a coppercoat based paint made for just this job. No need to separate the layers.
    This stuff? https://coppercoat.com/coppercoat-le...is-coppercoat/
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

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