Chain oilers....yes or no

[1/32 man]

One question, when do you do the thing with the reservoir cap - does the bike have to be moving? It looks like the oil comes out quickly, so if the bike is stationary, all the oil ends up on a few links of the chain.

Also, what oil should you use? 90 wt gear oil?

I went through a bit of a learning curve for sure.
I made up a mounting bracket for the reservoir so I could mount it on the frame....and I made up a tube tip gizmo from brazing rod to direct the tip of the dispensing tube to the sprocket edge/chain link meeting point.
I did have oil continually exiting the system at the beginning but once I figured out the filling process it stopped.
Before riding off on my journey I turned the cap of the reservoir quarter of a turn and didn't stop riding for about 75km.....ie the end of my journey.
Inspecting the chain and oiler....the chain looked evenly covered in oil. The oiler was not emitting oil. The rear rim wasnt covered in splatter...only a few markings.
I used 80/90 gear oil from SCA...the blue stuff. $25 per litre bottle.

So all up I have spent approx $100 and some time and energy and currently think it was worth it.

[MarkH]

I've had a Scott Oiler on a DR650, then a Tutoro oiler on my '17 Africa Twin. Now for my current bike I haven't decided on what to go for. I preferred the Tutoro oiler over the Scott Oiler, but I'm seriously thinking about trying a Nemo 2 oiler.
In my case the Tutoro might have an issue when I'm travelling in my motorhome with my bike in the trailer, the vibrations of travel may make the oiler run while the chain is stationary, leaving a puddle on the floor of the trailer. The Nemo 2 oiler would not have such an issue, since it only operates after manually starting it. I really don't want to piss about with a vacuum line or electrics, so I'm not keen on going with a Scott Oiler.

[pete376403]

. I really don't want to piss about with a vacuum line or electrics, so I'm not keen on going with a Scott Oiler.

Vacuum on the KLR wan't too hard, a Tee onto the port that the vacuum fuel tap connects to, easy. Also if worried about oi leaking with the Scott, just turn the top cap fully anti clockwise. Turned off. A friend had a Loobman on this Funduro, basically a plastic bottle of oil mounted at the handlebars, with a pipe leading to the chain. Squeeze the bottle occasionally.

[husaberg]

I seen this on the net today, I think its brilliant, KISS


A primer bulb is $2.10 or $3.5
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/lawnmowers/parts-accessories/listing/4896739
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/4893611816

Reservoir $5 to 7.5
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/m...ing/4900234372

add in some tubing
$10-15 a meter maybe

[Jantar]

I swear by the Scott Oiler. The point to remember is that modern chains actually need very little lubrication, it is the sprockets that the oil is protecting. Automatic oilers do a great job of lubricating that interface between chain and sprockets, and prevent rusting. I st mine on one drop of oil about every 1 minute 20 seconds. This is slightly less oil than is recommended, but I find it is a good compromise between lubricating the chain and sprockets while not flinging oil everywhere.

[SaferRides]

I swear by the Scott Oiler. The point to remember is that modern chains actually need very little lubrication, it is the sprockets that the oil is protecting.

Not quite correct as the rollers rotate slightly on the bushes as they "roll" in and out of the valley (?) between the teeth. But a decent chain oiler should lubricate that area effectively.



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[pete376403]

Not quite correct as the rollers rotate slightly on the pins as they "roll" in and out of the valley (?) between the teeth. But a decent chain oiler should lubricate that area effectively.

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The grease between the pin and roller should do this part, assuming the O or X rings are intact. Also if the seals ARE intact they will keep the oil out just as well as the keep the grease in

[SaferRides]

The grease between the pin and roller should do this part, assuming the O or X rings are intact. Also if the seals ARE intact they will keep the oil out just as well as the keep the grease in

This diagram should explain.


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[pete376403]

This diagram should explain.


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yeah ok we were both somewhat incorrect. You said the roller rotates on the pins, but as your diagram shows the roller rotates on the bush. And I said the "grease between pin and roller " where I should have said "pin and bush". I also said the seal keeps keeps the oil out of the roller, which clearly it cannot as it is on the other side of the inner plate. However we both agree that chain oilers serve a purpose.

[SaferRides]

Yes, I meant to say bush, not pin.

Not much lubrication of the rollers is required, and I doubt it makes a significant difference to chain life as wear between the pin and bush mostly determines this. The previous chain on the R1 was replaced at 50,000 km because of uneven wear after the X- rings started to fail - there was only slight wear of the sprockets.

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[Hobbyhorse]

I have used a Nemo oiler for several years and am happy with it. I give the barrel top a quarter of a turn every time I fill up with petrol .... about 300K.

[Jantar]

Not quite correct as the rollers rotate slightly on the bushes as they "roll" in and out of the valley (?) between the teeth. But a decent chain oiler should lubricate that area effectively.



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Which is why I said "need very little lubrication" rather than "need no lubrication"