Suzuki gs1200ss wiring ignition

**High Lord** · 14th July 2025, 19:53

Some twat tried to steal my old , high km, faded screen, scratched crank cased , oh so smooth and torquey Suzuki gs1200ss. They failed and left it down the road with a cut and screw-drivered ignition barrel. What freaking amateurs, thieves these days am-I-right?
It would be better for me Insurance wise if they stole it properly like a self respecting thief would . But all thieves are scum, so on-brand.

So im left with a munted bike that no one has wiring diagrams for . The local shop didnt seem to have any luck, so I got my Ali Express on and got this , which apprently fits a bandit 1200 of similar year.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...41ec1802HGoJXF

It looks they part, the lock barrel installs OK, the bolts all match up etc and the plug fits right in, but the wires are wrong .

photos of old cut wiring loom and new loom in this google album if the link works

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vx1G2F6dN57Zy3ki6

The old 6 pin plug only had 5 wires from ignition, and 4 at the pin. 2 wires are spliced in.

I thought i would test the new ignition 6 pin out , when "on" the outer 2 top and bottom wires connect, the middle 2 dont. When "off", the middle 2 connect, the outer 2 dont.

Unfortunatly the old ignition is so munted i couldnt turn a key, or screwdriver, to "on" so i could see what was connecting . The wire colours are not the same as any gsf1200 diagrams, more black, less nice easy bright colours.

I have also heard rumour of the suzuki trick of creating the perfect resistence between 2 wires to trigger the ecu on?

So, can anyone help ? guidance? A working ignition from a wrecked gs120ss? the elusive wiring diagram?

Gee , its been over 10 years since i last posted , time flys when your doing f knows. They all come crawling back here eventually.

**jellywrestler** · 14th July 2025, 20:03

whats the part number for the ignition barrell? i may be able to find out common fitment

**SaferRides** · 15th July 2025, 04:35

Out of curiosity, I had a look online. Was that model sold new in NZ, or is it an import? Either way, I'd guess it is the same part as a Bandit of that year.

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**JimO** · 15th July 2025, 16:32

Originally Posted by SaferRides

Out of curiosity, I had a look online. Was that model sold new in NZ, or is it an import? Either way, I'd guess it is the same part as a Bandit of that year.

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sold new, cos i looked at buying one

**High Lord** · 15th July 2025, 18:39

Originally Posted by jellywrestler

whats the part number for the ignition barrell? i may be able to find out common fitment

thanks fo the offer Jelly part a parts list is hard /impossible to find. the barrel i ripped off had "388" on the base ?

There are lots of , well, 10's of threads around relating to "has anyone got a haynes" for this one, followed, quite logically,with "it must be the same as a Bandit " But it has enough difference to be a PITA.

but maybe it is right, apparently , the igition switch for a gsf1200 has a 6 wire plug or a and a 6 wire with 1 pair jumped (e-24model ?) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283932423069

i guess i could just try combinations of wire connections, assuming that it needs 2 connctions, but going through the ingnition to trick the ecu to turning on?

**jellywrestler** · 15th July 2025, 18:44

Originally Posted by High Lord

thanks fo the offer Jelly part a parts list is hard /impossible to find. the barrel i ripped off had "388" on the base ?

There are lots of , well, 10's of threads around relating to "has anyone got a haynes" for this one, followed, quite logically,with "it must be the same as a Bandit " But it has enough difference to be a PITA.

but maybe it is right, apparently , the igition switch for a gsf1200 has a 6 wire plug or a and a 6 wire with 1 pair jumped (e-24model ?) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283932423069

i guess i could just try combinations of wire connections, assuming that it needs 2 connctions, but going through the ingnition to trick the ecu to turning on?

what did suzuki new zealand say, they are the ones who imported it, the 388 will be a key code number. these were a parts bin special,

**F5 Dave** · 15th July 2025, 19:03

You would expect RF900, GSF, GSXR11 etc to be similar in configuration as they won't reinvent the wheel.
Frustrating.
An old school auto electrician with some bike experience might be a fallback. A mate (moved to aussie) would have been ideal and not scared of diagnostics.
You could meter the ignition outputs of both, then force the old barrel with a Screwdriver to On.
Braver is to pop it apart, but be careful of catching all the springs and plates in right place.

Good luck hope you get it sorted.

**pete376403** · 15th July 2025, 21:20

Originally Posted by High Lord

I have also heard rumour of the suzuki trick of creating the perfect resistence between 2 wires to trigger the ecu on?

Gee , its been over 10 years since i last posted , time flys when your doing f knows. They all come crawling back here eventually.

My kawasaki has a similar resistor in its ignition lock - 100ohm when the key is in the "on" position. There are four wires coming out of the lock, two thick and two thinner. The resistance in on the thinner pair, the thicker two are a simple switch between the battery and the rest of the bike. Google suggests Suzuki may be the same: Suzuki motorcycles, and some other brands, often incorporate a 100-ohm resistor within the ignition switch as a basic anti-hotwiring security feature. This resistor, connected to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) unit, is checked by the CDI to ensure the ignition switch is functioning correctly before allowing the engine to start. If the resistor is missing or faulty, the CDI may not produce a spark, preventing the engine from starting.
Also note the resistor is not shown in the factory wiring diagrams - not the Kawasaki ones anyway.

**SaferRides** · 16th July 2025, 14:55

Originally Posted by pete376403

My kawasaki has a similar resistor in its ignition lock - 100ohm when the key is in the "on" position.

Also note the resistor is not shown in the factory wiring diagrams - not the Kawasaki ones anyway.

True, this has caused grief to people trying to fit aftermarket ignition switches to Kawasakis.

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**High Lord** · 21st July 2025, 20:14

Originally Posted by pete376403

My kawasaki has a similar resistor in its ignition lock - 100ohm when the key is in the "on" position. There are four wires coming out of the lock, two thick and two thinner. The resistance in on the thinner pair, the thicker two are a simple switch between the battery and the rest of the bike. Google suggests Suzuki may be the same: Suzuki motorcycles, and some other brands, often incorporate a 100-ohm resistor within the ignition switch as a basic anti-hotwiring security feature. This resistor, connected to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) unit, is checked by the CDI to ensure the ignition switch is functioning correctly before allowing the engine to start. If the resistor is missing or faulty, the CDI may not produce a spark, preventing the engine from starting.
Also note the resistor is not shown in the factory wiring diagrams - not the Kawasaki ones anyway.

Success!! thanks to all and for this vital bit of info, i ripped in through the back of the old lock and saw to there. Its real.

step by step how to for the next poor chump.
1- the Ali ignition has philips screws instead of whatever the original had, so you dont need to drill them out , just remove, watch the tiny springs. Take out the wire plate.
2- given the 2 sets of wires that connect when "on" ie Red with Red/white, and Orange with Brown/white, choose a pair to be the ECU connectors. I used orange with brown/white.
3- unsolder one wire, solder in the 100ohm , a bit of shrink wrap or tape or something to help stop shorting.
4- screw back together, remove the pins from the Ali plug, I also removed pins from the stock plug just so I would know its a good connection.
5- connections to the pin, with wires facing towrdas you, and plug tag on top are - Red/white---Brown/white----Red, then on the bottom, empty--Orange--- empty.
6- should be good to go .

all my photos are in the album, which might actually be easier to follow.

good points.. still has the hidden 100ohm , still hard to chop and hotwire!

Worries... i used a 1/4W resistor, i hope its fine?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGHkisRCdCvWHyd68