Sprockets

[diesel pig]

Ahh. Standard. 100%.
Only exceptions were 90s eurobikes trying to get past noise testing.

That is what I was thinking. husaberg's suggestion of doing 15/41 is possible as I have checked and there are those sizes of sprokets in those type's of sprockets I need. The bike is the one listed on my bio 1971 Suzuki T350R. I am doing (slowly) what I think the yanks call rest-o-moddying. What I picked up on the Two Stroke Thread is Suzuki made power in 1971 on the T350 by throwing petrol at it. Which is why I think she get's 160K's on 13 litres of petrol. I would like to rise that range as close as possible to 300K's. What I would like to do is use those modern idea's of burning more petrol to made more power. I want to use those idea's instead to use those same idea's to burn less petrol and still made the same power as before. I have realised that I first need to reduce the rolling resistance to as low as possible first. that is why I am looking at better chains and wheel bearings etc...

[diesel pig]

My take on Rest-o-modding is you can moditfy the machine but it has to look like the sort of modification a enthusiast would do in the decade fellowing the machine's release. So the Mod's look of the time but what they really are is under the skin is your business. So since the T350 came out in the 1970's mod's that look like they were done in the 70s is what I am going for. Throught I would just clear that up.

[husaberg]

That is what I was thinking. husaberg's suggestion of doing 15/41 is possible as I have checked and there are those sizes of sprockets in those type's of sprockets I need. The bike is the one listed on my bio 1971 Suzuki T350R. I am doing (slowly) what I think the yanks call rest-o-moddying. What I picked up on the Two Stroke Thread is Suzuki made power in 1971 on the T350 by throwing petrol at it. Which is why I think she get's 160K's on 13 litres of petrol. I would like to rise that range as close as possible to 300K's. What I would like to do is use those modern ideas to instead of burning more petrol to made more power. I want to use those same idea's to burn less petrol and still made the same power as before. I have realised that I first need to reduce the rolling resistance to as low as possible first. that is why I am looking at better chains and wheel bearings etc...

Add a set of modern carbs that way with a PJ you can tailor your fueling a steady speeds.
As you are not chasing hp go slightly smaller in the carb. If economy is what you are chasing.
Add in a decent ignition
You could get away with a 428 on one of these, but not sure if its worth the hassle.
But a non-oring chain is slightly more efficient than a x or o ring.

https://www.ducatispares.co.nz/produ...g-professional
a hd 428 is about 1/2 at only $40
https://www.ducatispares.co.nz/produ...n-120l-from-rk
https://www.ducatispares.co.nz/produ...lid-bush-chain

The 350 was okay on gas compared to the T500.

[SaferRides]

OK, So I am thinking about a DID 520VX3 on a JTR431 14 and either a JTR1826 37 or 39 (there is no 38 listed) So do I want to slightly over gear it or under gear it? It's for a Bike I would be road touring, I suppose that's the right name for what I will do with it. I won't want to hurt the performance but I also don't want a petrol drinking monster. Any ideas?

The DID VX3 is good chain, you're unlikely to ever replace it on a T350. The 530 version lasted over 50,000 km on the R1.

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[husaberg]

My take on Rest-o-modding is you can moditfy the machine but it has to look like the sort of modification a enthusiast would do in the decade fellowing the machine's release. So the Mod's look of the time but what they really are is under the skin is your business. So since the T350 came out in the 1970's mod's that look like they were done in the 70s is what I am going for. Throught I would just clear that up.

My take is similar but you make it usable, but visually correct to a causal obsever to the appropriate period factory product.

My rd the idea of the (never finished)AC RD with LC top end period TZ tank and seat like a cafe racer but with more modern tires and rim sizes and suspension, but still RSU and twin shock, still spoked alloy rims decent 4 piston caliper brakes, period looking lights but modern led tech and controls.
Mostly bolt together so Yamaha could have made it themselves.

[diesel pig]

Some good suggestions there husaberg. I have some new made 28VM's to replace the the stock 32VM's. (Have not fitted them yet) I was intrigued by the PJ idea. So I asked myself if PJ's were a thing in the 70's? When I looked in my old Bell tuning book his two PJ exsamples were 70's Yamaha's. So no worries there. I will get two PJ kits from MikuniOz. The 28VM's look like they are right out of the 70's but apart from the round slides everything else inside them looks like it came out of a brand new carb. I have all ready fitted a ignitech CDI. I hid it under the seat and replaced the huge old stator with one off I think a KX85. I used a spare wiring loop for the wires and plugs where one can see them on the bike. It is what got me thinking about rest-o-modding the rest of the bike. I don't know if the CDI makes the bike more economic over the old points but it does make the T350 easlier to start.

[husaberg]

Some good suggestions there husaberg. I have some new made 28VM's to replace the the stock 32VM's. (Have not fitted them yet) I was intrigued by the PJ idea. So I asked myself if PJ's were a thing in the 70's? When I looked in my old Bell tuning book his two PJ exsamples were 70's Yamaha's. So no worries there. I will get two PJ kits from MikuniOz. The 28VM's look like they are right out of the 70's but apart from the round slides everything else inside them looks like it came out of a brand new carb. I have all ready fitted a ignitech CDI. I hid it under the seat and replaced the huge old stator with one off I think a KX85. I used a spare wiring loop for the wires and plugs where one can see them on the bike. It is what got me thinking about rest-o-modding the rest of the bike. I don't know if the CDI makes the bike more economic over the old points but it does make the T350 easlier to start.

Some older carbs had airjets that lean off like an old webber, when crusing as you only need the richer mixture for acceleration.
Using a pj you can kind of do the same. You can also have a shallower longer taper on the needle.

[SaferRides]

Some good suggestions there husaberg. I have some new made 28VM's to replace the the stock 32VM's. (Have not fitted them yet) I was intrigued by the PJ idea. So I asked myself if PJ's were a thing in the 70's? When I looked in my old Bell tuning book his two PJ exsamples were 70's Yamaha's. So no worries there. I will get two PJ kits from MikuniOz. The 28VM's look like they are right out of the 70's but apart from the round slides everything else inside them looks like it came out of a brand new carb. I have all ready fitted a ignitech CDI. I hid it under the seat and replaced the huge old stator with one off I think a KX85. I used a spare wiring loop for the wires and plugs where one can see them on the bike. It is what got me thinking about rest-o-modding the rest of the bike. I don't know if the CDI makes the bike more economic over the old points but it does make the T350 easlier to start.

Interesting. One question, how does a PJ kit work?

I never rode a T350, but recall that they were basically a T250 with a bigger engine.

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[husaberg]

Interesting. One question, how does a PJ kit work?

I never rode a T350, but recall that they were basically a T250 with a bigger engine.

Sent from my SM-S938B using Tapatalk

old school ones use an additional metered circuit that draws in additional fuel from the float bowl at high rpm past 9/10 or so throttle.
tz late 70's and IT175's were the first bikes i remember having them.


bikes with carbs to big tend to naturally lean off at revs over peak power.
wrks using a vacuum created over the venturi that pulls up the fuel same a a mainjet works, its in essence just a high speed mainjet.

basically it can give better economy and more accurate fuelling at medium to higher revs as the power jet bike has a smaller mainjet
say if the bike on a conventional carb is a 200 main then the powerjet bike can have a 175 main-jet and a 25 power-jet carb. for the same ultra top end fuelling.

later ones now cut off fuel to warm up the pipes with electric solenoids as they now use different fuels so they get more overev.
they have a TPS show they can be set where ever suits them best



As DP has a ignitech he can set up the timing to give max fuel economy at cruising conditions he can ass a inline TPS say of a splitter cable and a TPS off say a RGV

[diesel pig]

I think husaberg is reading my mind.

[diesel pig]

Interesting. One question, how does a PJ kit work?

I never rode a T350, but recall that they were basically a T250 with a bigger engine.

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Literaly just bigger pistons and carbs. I have a factory Manual which is called a T250/T350 Manual and only mentions the T350 when it different from a T250 and that's not often.

[pete376403]

Literaly just bigger pistons and carbs. I have a factory Manual which is called a T250/T350 Manual and only mentions the T350 when it different from a T250 and that's not often.

Not even a 350, only a 315 - in spite of which they could still give R5 Yamahas (predecessor of RD350) a fright

[husaberg]

I think husaberg is reading my mind.

Sorry i never noticed he asked you....
this was the look i am after only on 2.5x17 and 3.5x17 for modern SS300 size tires
similar look but different mudguard and tail light and full floating 320 disc and 4 pot. 39mm rsu forks.
plus i think i am going to try and blend in RD400E side covers.

[diesel pig]

Outside of a racetrack (which they are perfect for) clip-ons soon begin to suck. Long fuel tanks look cool but suck to deal with even on a race track. Otherwise how are you reading my mind?

[husaberg]

Outside of a racetrack (which they are perfect for) clip-ons soon begin to suck. Long fuel tanks look cool but suck to deal with even on a race track. Otherwise how are you reading my mind?

I get what you are saying but to me they only suck bad if you are not going fast enough or try to ride too far. To my way of thinking the whole idea of a cafe style is about impractically it was more for posing at cafes. My fav road which is rated one of the best scenic route in the world is a max of a about 45 minutes between cafes.
i also don't want to encourage passengers....
Having the TZ long tank short seat is a nod to the ultimate RD Yamaha. IE a TZ350A
If i could justify them it would have the dry clutch and the TZ750 6 port cylinders as well.