tightening steering head

**soundbeltfarm** · 15th November 2005, 18:39

i want to tighten my steeringnhead nuts on my bike to see if that helps stop the wobble when braking and ive looked on the fiche and it looks like just the 2 collars to tighten up
do i do this by putting a flat bladed screwdriver and tapping it with a mallet or is there a better way?
or should i not try it myself and get it looked at first before i use my bush mechanic skills?

**DingDong** · 15th November 2005, 18:47

Originally Posted by soundbeltfarm

i want to tighten my steeringnhead nuts on my bike to see if that helps stop the wobble when braking and ive looked on the fiche and it looks like just the 2 collars to tighten up
do i do this by putting a flat bladed screwdriver and tapping it with a mallet or is there a better way?
or should i not try it myself and get it looked at first before i use my bush mechanic skills?

If it has play, tighten it... over tightening will damage the bearings

A screwdriver and mallet are fine because it shouldnt be all that tight... maybe you should take it to the shop and get a dampener installed.

**soundbeltfarm** · 15th November 2005, 18:51

Originally Posted by wayne kohi

If it has play, tighten it... over tightening will damage the bearings

A screwdriver and mallet are fine because it shouldnt be all that tight... maybe you should take it to the shop and get a dampener installed.

it got a damper on it , a stock one i took it off to see how stiff it felt and crikey it hard to move through the motion i think it has 5W oil in it and on another web site they drain it out and put 2.5W - 3w in and reckon its a marked improvment on original.
better to get an ohlins put in but no money for that yet.

sensei thinks it prob from doing mono's and i tend to think he is right .

**DingDong** · 15th November 2005, 19:01

Originally Posted by soundbeltfarm

it got a damper on it , a stock one i took it off to see how stiff it felt and crikey it hard to move through the motion i think it has 5W oil in it and on another web site they drain it out and put 2.5W - 3w in and reckon its a marked improvment on original.
better to get an ohlins put in but no money for that yet.

sensei thinks it prob from doing mono's and i tend to think he is right .

Lifting the wheel is Ok... putting it back down breaks bearings and seals, at the end of the day the minor repairs are well worth the thrills, good luck

**T.W.R** · 15th November 2005, 19:19

to adjust the steering head bearings, unless you've got proper C spanner its a case of using an appropriate sized screw driver & hammer, you shouldn't have to adjust it much. just make sure the front wheel is off the deck & if you've got a damper disconnect it while doing the adjustment.

general rule of thumb is that there should be the slightest resistance as the bars are moved from lock to lock, it shouldn't drop freely to the left or right, ust a smooth slow drop. once you've got that set reconnect the damper & your away & racing.

**Jackrat** · 15th November 2005, 19:27

Your really ment to use a C spanner but I just use the screwdriver an hammer method.I belive your also ment to tourqe them to a correct setting but I just lift the front wheel with a jack (no jokes here thanks)or lump of fire wood an tap em' up so when you let the bars go the front end will swing to one side or the other under it's own wheight with just a slight resistance being felt.
Steering dampers are worth their wheight in gold,IMHO.

**WINJA** · 15th November 2005, 19:45

THERES A C SPANNER YOU USED TO BY FROM PUSH BIKE SHOPS FOR ABOUT $5 THAT FITS.
A GOOD WAY TO CHECK TIGHTNESS IS REMOVE STEERING DAMPER , BALANCE THE BIKE ON THE SIDE STAND AND BACK WHEEL, TURN THE HANDLE BARS HARD RIGHT LET THE BARS FLOP TO THE LEFT IT SHOULD FALL AND KISS THE LOCK STOP SOFTLY AND NOT BOUNCE IF IT BOUNCES UP AND DOWN TIGHTEN IT, BEWARE OVER TIGHTENING CAN CAUSE WEAVING AS THE RAKE CANT CENTRE THE BIKE PROPERLY

**Test Pilot** · 17th November 2005, 22:29

Originally Posted by WINJA

THERES A C SPANNER YOU USED TO BY FROM PUSH BIKE SHOPS FOR ABOUT $5 THAT FITS.
A GOOD WAY TO CHECK TIGHTNESS IS REMOVE STEERING DAMPER , BALANCE THE BIKE ON THE SIDE STAND AND BACK WHEEL, TURN THE HANDLE BARS HARD RIGHT LET THE BARS FLOP TO THE LEFT IT SHOULD FALL AND KISS THE LOCK STOP SOFTLY AND NOT BOUNCE IF IT BOUNCES UP AND DOWN TIGHTEN IT, BEWARE OVER TIGHTENING CAN CAUSE WEAVING AS THE RAKE CANT CENTRE THE BIKE PROPERLY

Can you explain that weaving thing in a bit more detail. My CBR feels like it weaves and iv checked the adjustment 4 or 5 times, and i cant get it right. Gana replace the bearings this weekend but would be keen on sum more info

**T.W.R** · 17th November 2005, 22:57

Originally Posted by micgoo

Can you explain that weaving thing in a bit more detail. My CBR feels like it weaves and iv checked the adjustment 4 or 5 times, and i cant get it right. Gana replace the bearings this weekend but would be keen on sum more info

the weaving effect is almost like a gentle rolling from side to side mmm semi oscillating in a way. sometimes if your back wheel isn't totally in line can cause the same effect to a point, tyres being under pressure can cause the effect also

**WINJA** · 18th November 2005, 06:28

Originally Posted by micgoo

Can you explain that weaving thing in a bit more detail. My CBR feels like it weaves and iv checked the adjustment 4 or 5 times, and i cant get it right. Gana replace the bearings this weekend but would be keen on sum more info

THE BIKE WONT CENTRE THE STEARING PROPERLY SO ITS STARTS TO WEAVE AS THE STEERING MOVES OFF CENTRE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, IM REALLY BAD AT EXPLAINING MYSELF

**R1** · 18th November 2005, 07:09

dont use a screw driver!!!
If you dont have the right tool(C spanner) use some slip jaw pliers with a rag wraped around the nut it, will work better than a screw driver, and it duznt fuck the nut....Plus im not sure how well you can fine tune something when hammers are involved...

**Sensei** · 18th November 2005, 07:19

Originally Posted by R1Aaron

dont use a screw driver!!!
If you dont have the right tool(C spanner) use some slip jaw pliers with a rag wraped around the nut it, will work better than a screw driver, and it duznt fuck the nut....Plus im not sure how well you can fine tune something when hammers are involved...

Good call Aarron . Hammer & Performance Road bikes don't mix well !!!!

**Test Pilot** · 18th November 2005, 08:00

Originally Posted by T.W.R

the weaving effect is almost like a gentle rolling from side to side mmm semi oscillating in a way. sometimes if your back wheel isn't totally in line can cause the same effect to a point, tyres being under pressure can cause the effect also

This might sound stupied but what is a good way to make sure your rear wheel is straight? and if the bearing is to loose will it have the same effect(weaving) or will it have a different effect

**F5 Dave** · 18th November 2005, 09:36

With this sort of bike likely the bearings are buggered & need replacement by now. They may feel fine but the way to check is jack the bike up as stated & take the wheel/forks off. The weight of the forks makes it hard to tell. Then move the triple clamp to see if it at all notchy. The slightest damage/wear of the bearings will bugger up the feel of the bike.

May as well try yanking/shaking the wheels to see if those bearings are sound.

Not a silly question Micgoo:
Yep I think the wheel adjustment is another likely problem. Many bikes are not straight wheeled from new & the odd crash tweeks them some more.
Don’t trust the swingarm marks until you have checked by other means.

I bought a long length of square section ally & double checked against a flat surface turning it on different faces. Saw the same thing at Bunnings for ~ $25. Don’t skimp on wobbly sizes. You hold the bar against the rear wheel (with help of a friend holding the bike or a race stand) & the front should pretty much line up with the front disc once the front wheel is parallel (I taped a another (1 foot long) bit of bar on one end to get it closer to the disc). Then swap it to the other side. It will become apparent pretty quick what is happening. I find this MUCH easier than the string method which always left me unsure.

PS tires worn or wrong size, esp rear don't help