Tools of the Trade?

[ManDownUnder]

A bike stand... gotta have a bike stand for anything you do on the rear wheel, swingarm etc etc.

VERY useful. I went without one for years, and got one (a la FROSTY) and it ROCKS

[ManDownUnder]

I've done a bit of welding at school (Heaps of MIG and Gas welding, a bit of TIG and Arc) and I'm looking at getting a welder for home in the near future. What are the things you should consider when getting a MIG welder, or are they all pretty much the same? Is there a minimum to what you should pay for one, any cheaper and it's not worth it? What about TIG welding?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living...n-41408964.htm
As far as I know that looks like a good deal

All I can say is that they're pretty popular on TM and the prices can be high. Make sure you cost a new one before bidding.

Rollers can be wrong (wrong shaped grooves) or jam. Torch tips and gas shrouds can be worn, bit missing if it's a gas set up (regulators etc).

I know enough to be dangerous... anyone out there actually trade/sell these things? I'd be interested to talk to you too..

[jrandom]

isn't 5.56 a calibre? Equivilent to .223LR?

.223LR is not a caliber. .22LR and .223 are, though. Beware, however, of the differences between NATO standard 5.56mm cartridges and sporting .223s - although identical in terms of bullet size and cartridge shape, I've heard rumours that they leave the factory loaded for different chamber pressures.

Unlikely to be an issue in most guns, but if you're using milsurp 5.56 in your grampop's first-edition cheesemetal-receiver'd something-or-other, bear it in mind.

[Motu]

I've done a bit of welding at school (Heaps of MIG and Gas welding, a bit of TIG and Arc) and I'm looking at getting a welder for home in the near future. What are the things you should consider when getting a MIG welder, or are they all pretty much the same? Is there a minimum to what you should pay for one, any cheaper and it's not worth it? What about TIG welding?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living...n-41408964.htm
As far as I know that looks like a good deal

That's a pretty good welder for a reasonable price,but don't go gasless,it makes a crap weld,and one of the advantages of a MIG is any dickhead can do a nice looking weld.Don't go much bigger than 150 amp,that's the mistake I made,after working on the upper end of a 140 amp MIG for years when I got my own I went to a 200amp - but it's working in it's lower range for panel steel and exhaust tubing,it's hard to get the right ampage and the wire feed is super sensitive,by the time you've got it set up for a good weld you've already done it,and it looks crap.German or Hungary is quality,Italian or Asian is crap.Quality units also run a standard handpiece setup,which disconnects from the unit with a twist,this allows you to run different liners for alloy etc.

As I'm a proffesional with a monster tool kit I wouldn't have a clue what you need - quality is best,but not totaly nesesary...I buy heaps of cheap tools,it just depends on what I want at the time.We lose a lot of tools,and the odd customer takes a fancy to something - so it's a real shame to lose a prized tool,also if the tool sees so much use it has a short life,crap will suffice.

[SPORK]

.223LR is not a caliber. .22LR and .223 are, though. Beware, however, of the differences between NATO standard 5.56mm cartridges and sporting .223s - although identical in terms of bullet size and cartridge shape, I've heard rumours that they leave the factory loaded for different chamber pressures.

Unlikely to be an issue in most guns, but if you're using milsurp 5.56 in your grampop's first-edition cheesemetal-receiver'd something-or-other, bear it in mind.

My mistake, that's what you get for posting just before midnight (although I prefer posting after midnight). Dunna ye worry, only have a standard plinker .22, and the trusty Lee Enfield .303.

And Moto, considering you = master, could you please point me in hte way of exactly what I should be interested in in terms of welding? Any specific type better/easier? What's most cost efficient? Thaaanks

[madboy]

I've always liked the idea of expensive tools. I have an expensive(ish) 3/8 & 1/2 socket sets, screwdrivers, allen keys and ring/open end spanners.

But I've also got cheap powertools. I figure you can go through a lot of $15 drills before you justify the $400 De Walt one (or even a $200 Ryobi). Don't get me wrong, I'm all for a flash one, but money talks. Interestingly I haven't destroyed the $15 drill yet, and that's with 4 years of trying!

You'd be amazed what you can buy in a shit-kit from the Warehouse for $40. If you use the tools correctly (yes - correctly!), it can last a long time.

If it has a surface, like a screwdriver or allen keys, then the flasher ones are almost always worth it.

As for welders, I have a MIG. Haven't used it in a while, can't remember which friend I lent it to, and don't know what size it is. But if anyone in Wgtn is buying a TIG, I need a new aluminium gate - I'll supply the beers

[marty]

working on aeroplanes, most shite tools are just that - shite. they break, damage expensive equpiment, and are only good for modifying and re-engineering! we have lots of specialist gear - really small 12 point (try 1/8, 5/32 and 3/16 (that's 3mm, 4.5mm and 5mm heads) and often need wobbly sockets to get to them. a snap-on ratchet screwdriver at $150 each is a must have, as is a snap-on cresent. i've got a king chrome 1/2 drive set, and a set of 1" to 2" powerbuilt spanners, but they don't get abused too much.

the tool kit in the gargre is just king chrome for the house/car/bike/bikes

i spent $10k on tools last year.

[riffer]

Air compressors are good too. I got one when I rebuilt the gargre after the fire. I also got impact wrench, dremel, air hammer, and socket wrench tools.

And if you are feeling rich, a decent torque wrench too. I picked up a nice Facom torque wrench from Trade Tools in Alicetown ($300) which does a nice job. Facom supply tools to the Ferrari F1 team.

Mitre 10 sell a 3/8" socket set (Fuller Pro) for about $190 which is pretty good quality (made in Quebec, Canada).

Circlip and longnose pliers are handy too. One word of advice - NEVER use an adjustable spanner when you have a ring spanner - even the good ones have a bit of movement in them and can damage parts.

A race stand is a must.