Well I assume the pillion is bolted to the fairing - so in theory I could slide it off?(the fairing). I haven't had the bike long - so I do not know its 'ins and outs' yet.
Well I assume the pillion is bolted to the fairing - so in theory I could slide it off?(the fairing). I haven't had the bike long - so I do not know its 'ins and outs' yet.
Is this the rectifier?
yes
do a search on Dirty NC30 needing tweaks and there is an electricky diag there
edit here ya http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...0&postcount=45
I'd look for a keyhole somewhere (probably in the hump at back of the riders seat). The CBR has the pillion seat held on by a locking mechanism, with the lock set in the hump behind the driver. The ignition key was used to open it. I seem to remember a mates VFR having a similar sort of mechanism. Think its pretty standard for all bikes where the pillion seat can be removed. The TL certainly has one. The difficulty is finding the keyhole.Originally Posted by Vegan
But I guess you already figured that out by now if thats a picture of of the regulator/rectifier.
Oh yeah, don't how practical it is, but if you think the reg/rect is the source of your grief try 'borrowing' a reg/rect of somebody to test. Nothing like going of & spending money on the part thats not broken. On the same theme, dunno how much you know about bikes, but for something like the reg/rectifier unit, you're better of buying aftermarket parts as opposed to OE stuff from honda (as aftemarket is a shitload cheaper than OE.). The reg/rectifier unit is fairly standard and probably used by a number of different models of bikes, so it does exist.
If it ain't a V twin, it ain't worth shit.
It has a key hole - no problem finding it - bu yeah I managed to sort it out.
Looks like a problem with a charging system - bit the bullet and wheeled it the 2 kms to Mt Eden Motorcycles - who have been very helpful/knowledgable so far![]()
What was it in the end?Originally Posted by Vegan
If it ain't a V twin, it ain't worth shit.
Well it's still there - they were backed up for a couple of weeks. So not sure yet.
Ok so the issue was found to be the charging system, Problem with the regulator rectifier which has dealt to the Alternator and wiring loom. So i'm looking forward to a hefty sum in a few weeks time. Lucky me.
Fuck this shit.
Bugger. How bad is the wiring loom? Im surprised thats bust. WRT the alternator, go to a breakers & get a rewound 2nd hand one. I found it was a lot cheaper and actually better than the oe one. See my previous posts WRT the reg/rect unit.Originally Posted by Vegan
Don't know how brave you are, but if you're up to it, changing the alternator is a piece of piss (you don't even have to empty the oil out) & changing the reg /rect is a ten minutes job, so you don't need to waste money brining it to a garage to get the job done.
All the best with it.
Rgds
Ps. You might want to have a chat with whoever sold you this bike. It strikes me as being rather a coincidence that you have this problem one week after buying the bike. The cynical streak in me says the bike was buggered before you bought it & the previous owner just wacked a new battery into it to cover the symptoms for a few days.
If it ain't a V twin, it ain't worth shit.
The new regulator rectifier is bing put on - heavy duty one....the alternator is being sent off to be rewound etc...and the wiring loom - they're not sure of the extent of the damage yet... But honestly - the parts look like costing me atleast 6-700 bucks - and I'd rather pay someone the extra couple of hundred to do the job properly - plus I have some comeback if it fucks up...
But yeah - I don;t know if the previous member knew - i got it from a KB member - it was advertised on here.
Oh yeah it's the loom I don't want to fuck with - alternator and R/R dont bother me - Now that I have a haynes manual -
6-700? Fook...
You have my sympathies.
If it ain't a V twin, it ain't worth shit.
Testing the loom is fairly simple as you really only have to test from where the alternator plugs into the loom to where the reg/rect plugs into the loom.Originally Posted by Vegan
- test each of the three wires from the alternator output individually with its corresponding pin in the regulator plug & if you get 0 ohms resistence, everything is sweet. Also test that there is no continuity between each of the three 'phases' (with both the alternator & rec unplugged), caused by the wiring melting & shorting out.
The rest of the loom should be ok, because as far as I remember it's protected by fuses. I would be quite surprised if there was anything wrong with it, coz as I said before I had about 4 or 5 meltdowns without the wiring loom being buggered.
If it ain't a V twin, it ain't worth shit.
I checked around for a heavy duty rectifier before I even took the bike in from a few random places - $299 - and It seems rewinding an alternator aint cheap - 3-5 hundred......+ the loom, + the labour.
Screw it - atleast I am getting the bike tight now - rather than later - Just bought new fairings from just fairings too. Xmas - not a good time for these bills though.
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