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Thread: AX100 engine spec wanted

  1. #1
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    AX100 engine spec wanted

    Anyone got the specs for an AX100 engine, not bore and stroke, more the port timings, size etc?
    WMCC say they don't (even to buy) and I can't find them on the net (yes I did Google).
    Any ideas?

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    easy, pull the bore off and measure

    very simple on a two stroke?

    why do you want to know?? are ya gonna make up a chamber for it??


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    Quote Originally Posted by RG100!!
    easy, pull the bore off and measure

    very simple on a two stroke?
    I was trying to avoid that - as I don't have anything in the way of tools for that.
    Quote Originally Posted by RG100!!
    why do you want to know?? are ya gonna make up a chamber for it??
    Maybe... a friend might. I'm sorting the measurements - he's doing the pipe. He reckons a seam-welded two piece is the way to do it. Looks harder to me.

  4. #4
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    ill ask ivan to pull the bore off the one he has got and measure it up


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RG100!!
    ill ask ivan to pull the bore off the one he has got and measure it up
    Can he do the port timings? You need a degree wheel or something don't you?
    It'll be good if he can.

  6. #6
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    na just a 360degree protractor.....and his old man will probably do it


  7. #7
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    you can calc it. if you make a copy of the bore. one way is take the head off. rotate to BDC, slide a single peace of A4 around the bore, and rub with a soft pencil. this will give you a complete copy of your ports. don't forget to mark TDC (look for where the rubbing stops on the bore). once you have this. you know the length of the stroke there fore equals 180 degrees. now all you need is to remember those school maths classes and calc out the timing. PM me it you need more info. though you will still need to take the head off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert
    you can calc it. if you make a copy of the bore. one way is take the head off. rotate to BDC, slide a single peace of A4 around the bore, and rub with a soft pencil. this will give you a complete copy of your ports. don't forget to mark TDC (look for where the rubbing stops on the bore). once you have this. you know the length of the stroke there fore equals 180 degrees. now all you need is to remember those school maths classes and calc out the timing. PM me it you need more info. though you will still need to take the head off.
    Hmmm, hadn't thought of that. Thanks Bert.

    Still have to get the head off though as you say.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk
    Hmmm, hadn't thought of that. Thanks Bert.

    Still have to get the head off though as you say.
    yep but that no biggy. I'm sure that the AX100's have a copper head gasket so make sure you undo across the head ie LHS front to the RHS back, RHS front to LHS back. once you have finished follow the same steps, before you do place the head gasket in the oven at 250 degrees for 10 mins this will expland it again and make it like new.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert
    yep but that no biggy. I'm sure that the AX100's have a copper head gasket so make sure you undo across the head ie LHS front to the RHS back, RHS front to LHS back. once you have finished follow the same steps, before you do place the head gasket in the oven at 250 degrees for 10 mins this will expland it again and make it like new.
    Cheeers! You're full of helpful info...

    What's the torque settings?

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    Sorry didnt make it over the other night because the meeting was not on will drop it off still some stage ummmmm your best bet is me to do the prt sizes cause if you do a standered barel and make a chamber then get this ported motor you are actually gonna find it will decrease the power I havent forgotten tho I just need to get over there one day
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk
    Cheeers! You're full of helpful info...

    What's the torque settings?
    cheers

    someone might have to correct me but 35 Fp sound right, (i'll dig it out soon). but start lower and do them all up - and work your way up to the correct setting. with the age of these motors its really easy to strip the studs. and its not cheap to fix i just had all of mine replaced with 12mm ones (bases) it went a bit over board cost wise and nothing to show for it. nevermind.

  13. #13
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    yea do be careful with the studs.... i ripped mine out and had to get a stepped stud put in, it wasnt cheap either.....


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert
    someone might have to correct me but 35 Fp sound right, (i'll dig it out soon). but start lower and do them all up - and work your way up to the correct setting. with the age of these motors its really easy to strip the studs. and its not cheap to fix i just had all of mine replaced with 12mm ones (bases) it went a bit over board cost wise and nothing to show for it. nevermind.
    Bugger me... I was half kidding.

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