[ I recently picked up an rg 50 in standard (if slightly knackered) trim. I want to try bucket racing at Mt. Wellington, does anyone know what sort of tyres to put on the thing- cycletreads didn't seem to have any advice on that one
[ I recently picked up an rg 50 in standard (if slightly knackered) trim. I want to try bucket racing at Mt. Wellington, does anyone know what sort of tyres to put on the thing- cycletreads didn't seem to have any advice on that one
I am running a Pirelli front and hopefully will run both they grip forever in a day so yeah myne is standered who cares a bit of advice drop the bars so they low and take the foam piece out of RG tank it blocks airflow myne is still cool but may be going for a more competitve chassis
Blindspott are back as Blacklist check them out
www.blacklistmusicnz.co.nz
Pirelli's or yokohama sprints (if you can find them), or the fall back is Chinsins (sound like shit but arn't too bad, they have a small tread pattern and lots of rubber). another is IRC - but they're prob the hardest rubber, so they will last a lifetime (thats their only good point).
The biggest size you can have on those rims :
Front 2.75/17
Rear 2.75/18
- best of luck with the racing.
Bert
I used to run 3" on the back, but much of a muchness. Pity you are in Auckers, I have some front tires here. Assume you know Dave & Keith up there? They could throw you some tips, I could give you their details if you don't. Ivan means the piece of felt in the fuel cap.
The fuel tank itself is worth investigating. They rust on the inside so either only run on main tank & never down to reserve, or clean it out, pull the filter out of the bottom & run an inline one (being real careful not to kink the hose). It is nice to block the top fuel line & run an in-line tap so you can pull the tank off easier.
Don’t listen to Ivan, the chassis is quite competitive, mine handled very well until I went too far & removed the rear shock linkage chasing weight savings & it wasn’t as good as std. Not to say it can’t be improved. Without a doubt the best thing you can do is get rid of the std tall squashy seat & lower the handle bars. The pegs are fine where they are.
Obviously things get easier in your head if you decide the bike is never going back on the road. Low weight is esp important on low horsepower bike.
Start the bike, Pull everything off until it stops & put the last thing back on again.Ditch the oil pump, block the small hole in the barrel with araldite or solder & run premix. Strip out the kickstarter & gears driving it, block the hole with some Kneadit or think an old 2c piece behind the seal & some araldite.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
thanks for that guys, (esp. the fuel supply tips) -someone did a bodgey de-rusting of the lower part of the tank. I don't know dave and keith here in Auckland- so if you have their phone #s or email that'd be great (Dave F5 - thanks)- I may as well get this little thing ready for the next Mt. Wellington meeting (end of Feb ) cheers
Originally Posted by Ivan
I mean the standered chassis is good and handles well but I want a more competitve one like yours Dave
Blindspott are back as Blacklist check them out
www.blacklistmusicnz.co.nz
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks