Bucket update

[Slingshot]

AX100 is a bad choice of motor - only a 4 speed box and an 'oddball' from Suzuki. No interchangable parts with anything else. But if you've got it already I know someone who has a hot-ish one to copy.

If I can pick up an AX100 for $100 should I? Apparently it's got a fried clutch and it's got knobblies on it at the moment.

[Skunk]

If I can pick up an AX100 for $100 should I? Apparently it's got a fried clutch and it's got knobblies on it at the moment.

Only if you really want it. I wouldn't because I know what I've had to do to mine and how lucky I've been with the parts given to me.

If you just want a motor (any motor) try and get it cheaper. If you want a competitive motor - don't bother.

IMHO.

[Sully60]

If I can pick up an AX100 for $100 should I? Apparently it's got a fried clutch and it's got knobblies on it at the moment.

As Skunk said the AX is not ideal but then you ride his bike and it doesn't seem that much of a problem, his thing goes bloody well as you know.

For a hundy a complete running bike could be well worth it in itself, just for the bits that could end up being usefull. The clutch will be cheap enough to replace if indeed thats necessary, sometimes whacking another steel plate in there can be enough to solve that (in the short term). And you could rail the berm on the top corner at the Slipway with knobblies ( in fact you'll probably have to, with knobblies)

Have you had a good look at Frankenstein yet? It can't be to serious if everything is still intact. I don't know what you think but if you're keen to stick with Franky it seems like it could be quite a quick machine with a bit of fettling and seat time if you can get it going reliably.
If not, think about the things you think Franky could do better and make a desicion based on that. Think about maybe saving the $100 and spending a bit more on an FXR or the 250 beam chassis can be a relatively easy way to go (lots of RGV's or inline four 250's are about the place with blown motors) or if you can grab an RS125 like Sketchy's then you'll be sussed (need some wheels for that one and that all adds up) all of these options give you a good starting base to develop something into an effective tool.
My own view on things is that longer you spend with a bike you're comfortable on the more speed you'll get from developing the bike and you with it.

My two cents anyway, now go put them in your savings fund, and buy yourself something nice

[Sketchy_Racer]

BUY. MY. FRAME

Put your RZ wheels in it, and you'll have a minter!

[Slingshot]

Righto...gonna flag the AX idea.

After having a taste of the 'sled I've been developing grand ideas, do need to walk before I crawl though. Perhaps I should draw up a wish list and slowly tick that off:

• Setting up the forks properly
• 17" rims and tires with a decent profile
• 1/4 turn throttle
• Tuned expansion chamber
• Adjustable rear shock
• Cooler triple clamp
• Bigger carb
• Better clutch

Sketchy...I'm not buying your frame

[Ivan]

Having since sold my bucket......

I will be after a new engine for my one,


Chassis is there involving a Honda RS125 rolling chassis, now the engine bit comes in? what to use?

My RG50 engine?

Or something else?

[Sketchy_Racer]

Sketchy...I'm not buying your frame

just DOOO ITTTT

[F5 Dave]

I hate to tell you this Glen but getting the rest of the parts to suit that frame will be expensive for a bucket. Kinda makes it an orphan sorry.

my 2c is ignore the AX unless you want a bike for some kids to hack around a field on. Rebuild the GP, they go well, try not to divest into other projects. Pick a decent base & continue down that path lest you end up with no bike to race [points some fingers].

[bungbung]

Something nice for your bucket:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-126040007.htm

[F5 Dave]

And something for yours Ola Bucket touring upgrade

The Turbo is of course legal, but only on a 100cc 4 stroke.

[Slingshot]

It seems that I need a lesson in the basics of ignition systems.

So I was happily lapping the flywheel to the crank taper tonight when I noticed something was missing...namely the points and the condenser.

I was sure that I'd read about the points and seen them in the diagrams in the Haynes manual when I was trying to find out how to set the timing, and it looks like there's a space where they would have been but they ain't there.

So without that...how does it work?

Is it possibly something to do with the black box that plugs into the motor (CDI?), I can't find any reference to that in the Haynes manual so maybe it's a mod that someone has done previously to it.

[Skunk]

I think we found the CDI when we put it together. Didn't 'we'?

[Skunk]

...lest you end up with no bike to race [points some fingers].

Who? Tell me I can't work it out. Surely they could turn up with someone else's bike...

[Slingshot]

I think we found the CDI when we put it together. Didn't 'we'?

Yeah, we did. And plugged it in and the motor started...that doesn't mean that I had any idea what a CDI is or does.

[Skunk]

Nor do I. I'm going to Wikipedia. Race ya there...

Most ignition systems used in cars are inductive ignition systems, which are solely relying on the electric inductance at the coil to produce high-voltage electricity to the spark plugs as the magnetic field breaks down when the current to the primary coil winding is disconnected. In a CDI system, a charging circuit charges a high voltage capacitor, and during the ignition point the system stops charging the capacitor, allowing the capacitor to discharge its output to the ignition coil before reaching the spark plug.

A typical CDI module consist of a small transformer, a charging circuit, a triggering circuit and a main capacitor. First, the system voltage is raised up to 400-600 V by a transformer inside the CDI module. Then, the electric current flows to the charging circuit and charges the capacitor. The rectifier inside the charging circuit prevents capacitor discharge before the ignition point. When the triggering circuit receives triggering signals, the triggering circuit stops the operation of the charging circuit, allowing the capacitor to discharge its output rapidly to the low inductance ignition coil, which increase the 400-600 V capacitor discharge to up to 40 kV at the secondary winding at the spark plug. When there's no triggering signal, the charging circuit is re-connected to charge back the capacitor.

The amount of energy the CDI system can store for the generation of a spark is dependant on the voltage and capacitance of the capacitors used, but usually it's around 50 mJ.

CDI modules can be generally divided into two:-

* AC-CDI - The AC-CDI module obtains its electricity source solely from the alternating current produced by the alternator. The AC-CDI system is the most basic CDI system which is widely used in small engines.
* DC-CDI - The DC-CDI module is powered by the battery, and therefore an additional DC/AC inverter circuit is included in the CDI module to raise the 12 V DC to 400-600 V DC, making the CDI module slightly larger. However, the vehicle that uses DC-CDI system has more precise ignition timing and the engine can be started easier when cold.

I win. Now we wait for someone cleverer to tell 'us' how it's triggered...