More likely than not
More likely than not
Yeah, but you don't use grease FFS!! How you think grease is going to go getting pushed through your oil galleries and oil pump etc?Originally Posted by Ivan
Man, some of this is just common sense, something you sadly seem to be lacking in, especially as you seem to fail to see the error of your ways. You might listen to others, but do you actually hear and comprehend what they tell you? Don't think so.....
Riiigggghhhtttt, this is the same RS125 that finished second in the NZ champs with Jay Lawrence but is now the slowest, with the lowest top speed of any out there!!Originally Posted by Ivan
http://www.mylaps.com/results/newResults.jsp?id=257182
Originally Posted by gav
he ...managed to over take me into the first corner....
but then again it was the first race i have been in for 10 years...
yes it has been that long since i was in the greymouth street races......where i came.... well i wasn't last!! trev larson was![]()
i looked back and there he was..hahahahaha
what a ride so far!!!!
Originally Posted by ajturbo
I wasnt at the last round you rode at
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Originally Posted by gav
nah you aint listening to me I am running proper oil in it and have grease in the valve springs and what happens when grease gets hot it turns to oil and goes away it was just to lube the valve springs cause they seemed dryand were clicking and as for the RS I am saying about oil in the bore so I dont STUFF my Nickosol coat I dont care about lap times either It was only one round and I was having a real shit round I was having trouble with jetting my jet I was gonna use snapped and I had to use another shittier one I wanted to run a 39 tooth sprocket on the back but dad didnt want me using it because It had worn teeth and didnt want to spit a chain during the race and you wernt there to see any of the racing I was battling with Mandy New on the Trisail RS125 she had tons of straight line speed but I could carry more corner speed than her andin the final race I managed to get up the inside of her into turn 1 and I was taking in tons of advice from other riders and one of the guys said I shouldnt have taught you that I had no way to get passed you he was sure that I broke the 1:20's as well so was I and everyone watchin me I had to use a faulty transponder cause myne couldnt be found either
So shut up
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Whoa! That's a mighty long sentence.Originally Posted by Ivan
Could you try breaking it into sentences and add some punctuation please? Maybe a paragraph or two as well?
I can't understand that post... You seem to be saying something but the meaning is lost.
Every RS125 ever made has been a 2-stroke. I thought we were discussing a 4-stroke.Originally Posted by Ivan
I think Ivan is OK, afterall he does have an RS125 which is pretty good, and he seems pretty keen if a little misguided. It's all good youthful enthusiastic stuff. It's taken me 20 years of racing/fiddling to fully comprehend that others know more about getting stuff going fast than me. He'll get there. In the meantime it would be nice if everyone was a bit less critical of his efforts and a little more supportive. We'll just need to be a bit more tolerant of his "youthfulness", me included.
An example from my youth which is fairly relevant was an old XL100 which I ported. It was way slower than a standard one, which was lucky considering the brakes and handling. The muffler was suspended by a bit of lockwire to the frame.It's a kinda similar picture to what we have here except that this bike is making lots of power. (oops!)
Originally Posted by speedpro
Sweet yeah I know about porting to much an you lose power but standered is restricted you gotta takethose lumps out of the port and then smooth them out, I like what I have dono considering 6 months ago I wouldnt have known what a cam looked like.
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Hey guys I have to do the ports on my TF100 but that isnt going to be hard have the Dremel kit to get in there and do it just wondering while I have the motor in 2 halvesof there are any other mods that I can do to it in the bottom end I will also make a chamber to suit am looking at an internal roter flywheel real small but like to produce the power real fast the same asthe one on my RS
I have read that if you have a large flywheel on a peaky motor helps smooth down the sudden rush and also produces off the line torque more
and a smaller flywheel allows the power just to kick in straight away
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Hey Ivan, before you grind anything, have you got a plan. "Failing to plan is planning to fail" goes the old saying. What are you going to do? Raise the exhaust port ? widen it? how wide? how high? Are you going to do anything to the transfers? Have you got an old barrel to practise on? After all why bugger a good barrel practising. What sort of cutters have you got for the dremel. Will the dremel be able to get where you want to be?Originally Posted by Ivan
You could match the transfers to the crankcase , check that the base gasket dosent poke into the transfers. Or you could just put it back together standard and live in the knowledge that it wont blow up for a year or two provided you give it a nutritous diet high in vitamin TTS
Originally Posted by Ivan
Fit a dropable flywheel, you will have torque off the line and peaky power once under way and you wont have to carry that heavy flywheel with you.
Its harder to lose weight than gain horsepower.
Stanko is exactly right. You MUST have a plan about exactly what you want the motor to do and everything you do is to achieve that. Have it all planned before you start. If you go making the ports real big on these motors you will need to feed pistons to it as they will crack all the time. Are you going to raise the whole barrel by fitting a 1mm spacer with a base gasket each side? This gets the transfer ports to more or less where they need to be, depending on a whole lot of other things. There is gains to be made by raising the transfers even more but you need to get the angles right as well, both up into the chamber and across the top of the piston. You will want to drop the bottom of the intake piston ports. Like I said previously I went way down and ended up with 200 degrees of port open time. The exhaust port I raised until it was open for a total of 200 degrees of crank rotation as well but looking back I think it was a bit much, though it did work well. Whatever you do you MUST NOT remove the bridge in the intake port. It provides critical support for the piston. When you drop the intake port down reduce the width of the parts you extend down. This has a couple of advantages - more support for the piston and doesn't increase the cross-section of the port and more than neccessary. You have to plan and measure everything you do. Remember that if you raise the exhaust port too far and drop the barrel to fix it you will be extending the intake timing which could be another problem if you have already got that all ported. Devcon can be used in the intake of course to fix stuffups. There are so many variables you could write a book. You'll need a protractor to put on the end of the crank so you can measure crank angles when the ports open and close. Don't tune for more than 11,000rpm on the TS engine and get some C3 main bearings. I think the best pistons are the RG400 rear cylinder ones, they have thinner rings and are just a nicer piston. As an experiment you can file a bit off the bottom of the piston on the intake side to extend port timing. If it doesn't work a new piston fixes the problem. The chamber will need to be machined as well, and the top of the barrel. Like I said you will need a plan BEFORE you start. You need to measure everything BEFORE you start to make the plan.
A few more things - I used to polish the edges of the cutaway under the gudgeon pin on the piston to reduce stress raisers to try and reduce cracking, it seemed to work. I also filed all the little bumps off the top of the piston and then polished it with wet and dry till it was nearly a mirror finish. I had a theory about that and it seemed to work. Once you start taking the squish clearance down to where it should be you will need to dowel the head to the barrel so that the chamber lines up with the bore. It's quite tricky getting it all clocked up for machining but it's got to be done. I think Pete Sales actually made a tool that allowed him to cut the squish with the head bolted to the barrel so it was perfect. Don't make the exhaust port much wider than it already is and don't raise it too much. it'll kill the motor.
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