Bucket update

[Ivan]

Sweet,

I am using a copy of Berts barrel

So tired cant eventhink of anything to right

sorry I have to go back and play Moto GP 4 I'm addicted

[Bert]

Great post Speedpro, that's the info that all of us TF builders need.

Ivan, I'm sure that Barrel was done by PS.
it was off one of Ray Wilsons toys, that was a rocket. so I hope it all go's well.
Don't forget the base spacer. I've got one up here if you need it to copy. or if i find some time over easter I might do it for you.
and
well if you stuff it up, you would have learnt something.
STOP PLAYING COMPUTER GAMES !!!!!!! read a book.

[speedpro]

Ray Wilson - yeah his bucket went OK, had about 16-17hp I think. Mine made 19.9hp with a big FAT powerband. Just for info!! Not showing of or nothin'.

[Ivan]

hey first time back on kiwibiker since I am now 125 GP and 250 GP world champion, sweet I need to get the right kind ok card to map the barrel you gave me thenstick it in to myne tape it there and feep taking metal off the barrel until they match,

How did you get 19.5 hp

[Bert]

ok card to map the barrel you gave me thenstick it in to myne tape it there and feep taking metal off the barrel until they match,

Not quite sure what this means but i figure that you are working on your new barrel ?

How did you get 19.5 hp

build a good zorst, that suits the porting and power range that you want.

[speedpro]

How did you get 19.5 hp

VERY carefully and over a few years, by feeding pistons to it and working on the crank. Like I said - You have to have a target and a plan that will get you there. EVERYthing must be to achieve that target. I think I had over 140 dyno runs on that motor.

Don't try copying a barrel using tape to transfer the port dimensions, it isn't accurate enough and only takes into account heights, when angles are critical as well. You have to assemble your motor and measure what you have and then mark the height of the ports where you want to take them with all the base gaskets/spacers in place. You rotate the crank to the right place, lock it and then scribe across the top edge of the piston onto the barrel over the ports. Make sure you measure using the piston type you are going to build the motor with as there are minor differences in heights. The only way to do the intake port is trial and error. Take some alloy out, assemble it, measure it, disassemble it, do it over till it's right. You are not going to do a good job in a weekend. It takes me a whole day just to get the combustion chamber shape and the compression right.

The whole exhaust port, because it curves, is going to take a lot of careful work with the dremel and finishing with coarse W&D paper.

A real good thing to do is rebalance the crank as they vibrate real bad. Either side of the big end pin hole in the crank webs is a hole. Press a slug of aluminium into the big hole only on both webs. The differance is amazing. While you have the crank apart put a rod kit in or at least a fresh bigend bearing and thrust washers. The good thing is that all the TS rod kit parts have been superseded by RM parts.

My current MB100 made 22.5rwhp when it was fresh. Again with a BIG FAT powerband, and reliable as anything. Nigel Duff's RG100 makes 27.5rwhp and it's got a HUGE FAT powerband but that has had mega hours spent on it and is very very trick inside.

[Ivan]

Not quite sure what this means but i figure that you are working on your new barrel ?

es I am mapping the ports in your cylinder and then basically transfering them over to my cylinder and do some angles for the ports and then I am done

[/QUOTE] build a good zorst, that suits the porting and power range that you want.[/QUOTE]


Yeah I would want quite a Snappy power band like my RS125 so I need to ride the thing alot harder.

[speedpro]

Yeah I would want quite a Snappy power band like my RS125 so I need to ride the thing alot harder.

Orrrrrrr . . . . .

I started writing a reply to this but it seems like there is no point so I erased it.

[Sketchy_Racer]

just give up speedpro.....

Im sorry but he is beyond help

[Ivan]

just give up speedpro.....

Im sorry but he is beyond help

SORRY SORRY SORRY that last post was so stupid it makes no sense I am better at explaining something intrue life not writing im illiterate


I ment to say I want a power band were the power range is for about 4000 rpm not straight on but not right through so it reminds me of my RS125 when I ride it but I am planning a deal at the mo will reveal later

[speedpro]

4000rpm is plenty wide enough. F5 has managed with about a 1/10th of that for about as long as I've known him. Mind you his steel clutch plates were a lovely shade of blue.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Hey speedy pro.....

How do i stiffen up the clutch on my KR150?? it slips when it hits powerband and its fucking me off.

Yes the cable is adjusted right

[Ivan]

like the mighty DR could be the same as dads TZR and the clutch basket gets 'lumps' and ends up making the clutch plates play up you have to filethem off dads TZR was a bitch for that an hour in the basket and nowit runs mint


butyeah ask someone else but thats what I did any ways

[speedpro]

That could be it, especially if you have been giving it a hard time. Just file the sides of the grooves flat as you can and that will help. It lets the plates all move freely instead of binding up on the little bumps. If you can't get that to work I've sometimes been able to slide an extra plate in so that the steels are working on an unmarked bit of the inner clutch hub. I wouldn't just add spacers to the springs, that'll make it less nice to use and just mask the problem.

[Sketchy_Racer]

I wouldnt think that it would have put grooves on the clutch basket after only 4000kms of road use.

Ill do an oil change as i think the twat that owned it before me put car oil in it.


And i want to check and see if my kips powervalves are working, as it feels that they dont open up sometimes because the powerband is flat, but then other times its quite snappy ??