Bucket update

**Ivan** · 31st January 2007, 22:26

My reed cage thanks to some advice from expert I have bent the reed cage tabs bak so the reed petals will open more bent them as far bak as they would go

And Autosoled my ports again tonight so they look chromy,

Next big thing is to make the aluminum spacer to raise the height of my ports but i have a question!

How do you get your head machined down whodoes it?

**speedpro** · 1st February 2007, 05:51

Originally Posted by gav

Reed valves, anyone run a 100cc two stroke, with a 28mm carb without one? Does it really make much difference? This is a MB100, so no rotary valve comments please, just curious what the effect would be....

Without blocking off the part of the intake port that feeds the crankcases it won't work. If you converted it to pure piston port it would be OK. I did that on a TF100 and it went real good (19.9rwhp) but their reed valve is just a sort of booster/rev extender unlike the standard reed valve setup on the MB. I would suggest fitting a 4-petal reed valve from something like an early RD350. It will fit with a bit of filing and devcon. You fit the RD carb mount straight into that and just drill another pair of screw holes to mount it using the original MB barrel threaded holes. Then a 28mm carb mounts straight on. I've done that as well and that also worked real good. I also mounted a carb mounting for a 32mm carb onto the same reed block and a 32mm carb and that worked very well with a bit of porting and a pipe (22.5rwhp).

**Ivan** · 1st February 2007, 09:19

Far thats alot of rear wheel horsepower
Im hoping to get 10 HP out of myne haha

**F5 Dave** · 1st February 2007, 10:50

Some 'expert' telling you to open the reed stops! They are there to help contain reed flutter. Unless you are running fibre reeds I wouldn't do that. Even then I wouldn't. Seems like a simple idea until you think about how the flow goes.

Tuners stopped polishing the ports in the late 70s. Read up about it. I just leave mine with a kind of honed look from a rotary stone.

Anyone with a lathe who can drive it can reshape the head or skim the barrel, can do skim on a mill but harder to get square.

Gav, to clarify the TF & AX are 1/2 reedvalve 1/2 piston port engines. The MB is designed from the start as full reed. A further option is the reed straight into the crankcases, but that is somewhat more modern. MX engines, RSs etc.

**Ivan** · 1st February 2007, 11:08

the AX is a full crankcase induction it has no inlet port into the barrel it runs striaght in to the crankcase

Expert is a Kiwibiker member I didnt say Expert as in a expert tuner I ment it as in his name.

The reason I polish the ports is because I have talked to alot of people who did it and that was were they got power from, they say to make the exhaust smooth as possible.

If it dont work I wont do it,

Its kind of trial and error becuase I have 1 person saying polish theports another saying dont 1 saying open the reed stops one saying dont,

All I opened them for was because I have been told it works I remember RG once telling me to open them up as well,

!!!!!!MAN I AM CONFUSED!!!!!!

**F5 Dave** · 1st February 2007, 11:29

Didn't realise AX didn't have piston ports. May be an idea to make some like an RG (or PE/RM of that era).

Well take everything with a grain of salt, sometimes you have to try everything. But I would trust people who build fast bikes more than enthusiastic typers.

But most of all read that book by Bell. He covers all those points.

**Ivan** · 1st February 2007, 11:37

Make some what? Piston Ports? or Reed cage?

Take everything off with a grain of salt?

I like to take advice from everyone and yip I the thing I like about you is your bikes are fast and you get high horsepower!

But yeah I also listen to expert I listen to all and take advice from everyone as you guys all make faster bikes than me.

But please explain my top questions dave?

**F5 Dave** · 1st February 2007, 11:42

Well in the real world you have the inlet port setup that would favour doing the best suzuki could with it. That would mean making some inlet ports in the back of the cylinder & making sure they are nice & straight with say 170 deg duration to start with.

This may mean devconing the inlet forward to the barrel, but not sure what it looks like. Basically same design as an RG50, but try more like an RM or RG250 as designed for more power than commuting.

I'd want to make that inlet about 20 -30mm long from the barrel. (Shorter for super high revs which this engine won't be ok for). This means a quantum change.

**Ivan** · 1st February 2007, 11:48

What you are saying is make some inlet ports in the barrel?

That seems outa my league I pefer to get someone who has done it to do that for me.
Isnt crankcase induction the best like most modern 2 strokes RS RM etc?

**F5 Dave** · 1st February 2007, 14:22

Yes, but that really requires a complete change of architecture, your engine would require a huuoge amount of work to be full case reed like modern, well to do it properly as opposed to like it is with a single sided reedblock at a funny angle. Then there is the other transfer ports to make it work well.

**Ivan** · 1st February 2007, 16:12

Yeah I think ill leave it as is and raise the port height then grind down again to make it go better,

Far more simpler and a bit more safer in my opinion rather than making it a new engine Id prefer to develop somethign like a rg50 something which is water cooled and has a good gear box!

Hows your RGV125? Is that gonna be racing this season?

**F5 Dave** · 1st February 2007, 16:39

should be. Entirely in parts but I have everything, just need the time to fire it back together, but my 50 will still go fine for this race.

**Ivan** · 1st February 2007, 20:26

Sweet yeah I really like your 50 its cool as and the noise it makes is awsome
Sounds hardtoride tho.

**Expert** · 1st February 2007, 22:03

Now everyone can be a two stroke tuning expert!
No boring architecture or quantum leaping for us!
http://www.kreidler.nl/artikelen/per...raham-bell.pdf