Failed WOF - ARRRHHHH

[Slingshot]

Took the bike in for it's WOF check, and it failed

If anyone has advice on any of the following - please post it.

Wheel bearings - front & rear
Rear sprocket bush
Forks are way to soft
Front tyre is wrong shape and they think it's actually a rear tyre
Tank is too loose
Indicator has a small hole omitting white light
Mirrors are not secure enough

When I got home I thought I'd take another look at the carbs as well cause they're still pissing out fuel through the overflow at idle, I found another o-ring that was split so replaced it and put it back together...guess what, it still leaks

I'm get frustrated!

[James Deuce]

Took the bike in for it's WOF check, and it failed

If anyone has advice on any of the following - please post it.

Wheel bearings - front & rear
Rear sprocket bush
Forks are way to soft
Front tyre is wrong shape and they think it's actually a rear tyre
Tank is too loose
Indicator has a small hole omitting white light
Mirrors are not secure enough

When I got home I thought I'd take another look at the carbs as well cause they're still pissing out fuel through the overflow at idle, I found another o-ring that was split so replaced it and put it back together...guess what, it still leaks

I'm get frustrated!

The Mirror thing is interesting!

Check the mirror brackets and make sure the nuts holding the mirrors on are done up.

Remove the seat and make sure the bolts/lugs securing the tank at the rear are done up.

Check the indicator lense out, write down the part number, and begin checking the wreckers out for a replacement.

Post the brand and model of the front tyre (it'll be on the sidewall), and we'll tell you if it is a front or rear.

The forks may be soft because all the oil has leaked out. Replace the fork seals and put new fork oil in (make sure you get the right amount of oil and the right weight - you'll need to start with manufacturer specs). If they are still soft then it may be time to replace the fork springs.

The rest is a bit self evident unfortunately. Replace them. Sorry bud.

[aff-man]

Wheel bearings shouldn't be to pricey and if you get it done at a bike shop that does wof's (like mt eden) then you walk in with broken bike and you walk out with fixed bike a new wof and a lighter wallet

[riffer]

The best piece of advice I can give you mate is

get a Haynes manual for your bike!

It's saved me countless $$$.

Sounds like a bit of work ahead of you Slingshot. Good luck with the rebuild.

[Lou Girardin]

What the hell do they mean by, 'the forks are too soft'. How did they quantify that? Was there another slingshot there to compare it to?
Do the mirrors flop around in breeze?
Next time, try somewhere more realistic. Ask around and see who's recommended.
Lou

[Slingshot]

What the hell do they mean by, 'the forks are too soft'. How did they quantify that? Was there another slingshot there to compare it to?
Do the mirrors flop around in breeze?
Next time, try somewhere more realistic. Ask around and see who's recommended.
Lou

I spoke to the mechanic that checked the bike, he said at first he thought the front tyre was flat so he pulled over and realised it wasn't and that the forks were bottoming out when he went over bumps.

The bike has been dropped at some stage in it's prior life and the stems that the mirrors are on are cracked, he wasn't happy with the fact that they could vibrate out of position. They won't be to hard to fix, I'll just glue the fuckers up.
The tank should also be pretty easy to sort out, I'll just pack it with a bit more rubber.

I've got a mate from work coming over on Thursday and we're going to take the wheels off and investage the bearing, we'll also try topping up the fork oil and see if that makes a difference.

[6Chris6]

I spoke to the mechanic that checked the bike, he said at first he thought the front tyre was flat so he pulled over and realised it wasn't and that the forks were bottoming out when he went over bumps.

The bike has been dropped at some stage in it's prior life and the stems that the mirrors are on are cracked, he wasn't happy with the fact that they could vibrate out of position. They won't be to hard to fix, I'll just glue the fuckers up.
The tank should also be pretty easy to sort out, I'll just pack it with a bit more rubber.

I've got a mate from work coming over on Thursday and we're going to take the wheels off and investage the bearing, we'll also try topping up the fork oil and see if that makes a difference.

Took mine to "on road" New lynn they spun both tyres checked indicators and lights etc got me to ride along and brake and gave me a warrant in and out in 5 mins don't think they had a clue really

[Motu]

I think he's done a pretty good check Slingshot - to pick up on the forks with a road test shows he's not just some tester at the testing station who has been sent on a bike handling course so he can test bikes,this guy can ride a bike and has used his experiance to pick up a fault - that's what it's all about...not being some little Hitler who gets off on ''reinterpreting'' the rules to ''make'' a fail where there is none,or passing a bike with a fault because he doesn't know how one operates or works.Tell him you appreciate his in depth check - I think he'd kinda like that and not a bitch about your fail,I know I would.

[James Deuce]

Don't top up the fork oil dude! Empty them and put exactly the right amount of fresh oil in. If your seals aren't stuffed overfilling will stuff them for sure.

[pete376403]

Buy your wheel bearings from someplace like Saeco, Schrodoco, etc. As long as you can take the old bearings in they can match them up and they will cost far less that the genuine part. (If you take the bike to a shop to get them done, chances are the shop mechanic goes to a place like this)
If you do change the bearings yourself, support the wheel on a big bucket, drum etc to avoid banging on the discs. Keep an eye on the order the spacers and stuff go, draw a picture if necessary. Don't hammer directly on the new bearings when putting them in, use the old bearing between the hammer and the new one. Don't use a brass punch either, the brass flakes and gets into the bearing. Take your time, Use good quality wheel bearing grease, lithium moly is good. Enjoy the good feeling of doing it yourself.

re the indicator lens, if the hole isn't too big, fill it with 5 minute araldite and a bit of red nail polish for colour (if its a rear lens)

Rear sprocket bush (?) - do you mean the cushes (rubber wedges between the sprocket carrier and the hub?) pretty much the only thing you could do with these is fit new ones. Do that while you're changing the bearings.

[MikeL]

Next time try the Onehunga Testing Station. Both occasions I've taken my 89 Honda in it's got a cursory visual inspection (lights, tyres, horn, chain, steering) and on one occasion no brake test at all. In and out in less than 5 minutes. Just shows what a lottery the whole thing is. My wife took her BMW 320i in last week, a few days after a major service and check, and not only did the same people fail her because of some minor steering link wear, they stamped the form with a big "RECOMMENDED THIS CAR NOT BE DRIVEN". Very upset, she took the car back to the mechanic who couldn't believe it - no way was the car unsafe. Seems the fellow at the testing station was having a bad day, and when she went back they admitted (reluctantly) that the stamp was a bit over the top. Give petty minds a bit of power and this is what happens. Now back in the old days...

[Lou Girardin]

OK, I take it all back.
Lou

[Two Smoker]

Next time try the Onehunga Testing Station. Both occasions I've taken my 89 Honda in it's got a cursory visual inspection (lights, tyres, horn, chain, steering) and on one occasion no brake test at all. In and out in less than 5 minutes. Just shows what a lottery the whole thing is. My wife took her BMW 320i in last week, a few days after a major service and check, and not only did the same people fail her because of some minor steering link wear, they stamped the form with a big "RECOMMENDED THIS CAR NOT BE DRIVEN". Very upset, she took the car back to the mechanic who couldn't believe it - no way was the car unsafe. Seems the fellow at the testing station was having a bad day, and when she went back they admitted (reluctantly) that the stamp was a bit over the top. Give petty minds a bit of power and this is what happens. Now back in the old days...

Exact thing happened to me , i went to 2 different mechanics and they said my Outer Tie Rods were fine!!!!!! Yet my mate takes his bike down there, and they ask him "hows the brakes?" he replies with "Good" they say ok. But now they are putting the bikes on the rollers for brake testing, which i see as an improvement.

The fucked up thing is, they are so relaxed about bikes, yet so pedantic about cars???????

[pete376403]

probably cos they know (better) how cars work and the names of parts and so on.

[White trash]

The best piece of advice I can give you mate is

get a Haynes manual for your bike!

It's saved me countless $$$.

Sounds like a bit of work ahead of you Slingshot. Good luck with the rebuild.

God luck getting a manual for a GSXR250.