Jolt/Slip in drive-train

[Keeper]

Some times when accelerating hard the bike feels like it has just slipped a notch on the sprocket, the sprockets are in good nick, the chain is new and tight, and I think my clutch is adjusted properally for road, anyone able to help?

[T.W.R]

what are your cush-drive rubbers like in the rear hub? and when you say your chain is tight, what are you meaning? a fresh chain should be tight on the pull from the rear sprocket ( pulling the chain away from the sprocket towards the rear ) but shouldn't be tight in up/down play between the sprockets ( roughly there should be anywhere between 15-25mm vertical movement on the bottom run of the chain) ( you'd have to check with a service manual for the correct measurement of play )

[Keeper]

rubbers in the hub are fine, slack on the chain on the bottom run is 2-3 cm

[T.W.R]

Just check everything externally, otherwise it could be the clutch getting worn possibly?

[R1madness]

Actually it sounds like the gear dogs are worn. They are the bits on the back of the gear whick locks it into the other gears on the shaft in the gearbox and creates drive. If it is only (mostly) doing it in 2nd gear then you have been doing too many clutchless gear changes or ham fisted wheelstands or the shift forks are worn (or bent) and not selecting properly.
Does it do it worse under hard acceleration? What gears? What revs? What load?
If thats what it turns out to be you do not need to buy new gears. You can get the dogs/slots undercut which cures the problem for ever. It does make shifting fractionally harder but you get used to it.

[Sniper]

Is your ZX6R standard or was it you with the "minor" mods done to yours. It is very possible that the gear selector is the problem. mJust like R1 said.

[Keeper]

it usually happens only in first under heavy acceleration around the 2/3 way up the tacho i'd say 1st usually - it slips then grips again straight away, and I don't normally use the clutch when I shift up, sometimes but not often coming back down too, it has been getting a little harder to shift gear and the electronic neutral finder seams so only work when the gearbox is warm...

my shifter is still standard, just angled down a bit to suit my riding - i never clutch up wheelies though

it does seam this could be a general gearbox abuse problem,

[R1madness]

Yep its the dogs and shift forks. Poor gearbox. A trip to the local shop for some new bits i am sorry to say. Budget about $1000 to $1500. Ouch. Use the clutch.

[Keeper]

im about to set off on a tour of nz, mostely slower riding with a pillion, what do you think the chances of it dying while on the road if i use the clutch more religiously and dont thrash it are

[R1madness]

Yea if you dont use 2nd at all and use the clutch for every change you can ride it forever. Use the clutch and go from 1st to 3rd. It will be fine. Just get it looked at when you get home. If it shits itself in the south island give me a call and i will come and get ya.

[Keeper]

can anyone show me a diagram of what is broken/about too brake

[Keeper]

it the wear on the teeth probably on the drive shaft or the output shaft?

where would my shift forks be i cant spot them in the manual.

[T.W.R]

heres some diagrams of your whole trans, the shift forks are in the second diagram

[Keeper]

heres some diagrams of your whole trans, the shift forks are in the second diagram

13140?

are they the ones you can sevice/replace without splitting the crank?

thanks for your help - it is only happening in 2nd for sure now, did it today when i had the rear spinning in the wet

[T.W.R]

13140?

are they the ones you can sevice/replace without splitting the crank?

thanks for your help - it is only happening in 2nd for sure now, did it today when i had the rear spinning in the wet

the 13140 is part of the code/part number, the diagrams are from www.buykawasaki.com , its the kawasaki america site, owner information/parts diagrams. it has all listings of all the different models along with catalogue listings of Kawasaki parts numbers (universal numbering so any that you take to your dealer will be the exact number they'll source)

splitting the crank ? lols cases

by rights a 636 should have a casette type gearbox, so once you remove the sprocket cover & drive sprocket & the other bits n pieces in the area you should be able to remove the gearbox plate & everything inside should be able to be removed as virtually a complete unit.

the clutchless gear changing on the downshifts will be the main cause behind the damage (torque loading), its spread the fork away from its natural seat position.