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Thread: NC30 Electrikery

  1. #1
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    28th July 2004 - 12:13
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    NC30 Electrikery

    Hiya all, I'm having a wee bit of an issue with my nc30 as of late
    Ill be riding along quite happily and all of a sudden it will start missing and running like absolute shit - IE won't even be able to go up a hill without dropping speed rather drastically) and this missing will progressivly get worse and worse to the point where the motor will kill itself in midstride and I will roll to a halt on the ride of the road.
    Now if I leave it for a wee while (10 - 15 min) it will fire up fine on choke and then it will run fine for a while and then 'bam' it all happens again

    I have checked the battery and reg/recitifer - these are all fine (the first thing I did) And so the next conclusion I came to was cracked coils - but i haven't the foggiest idea how to test for this conclusivly, but someone said if you wrap the electrode wires from an ammeter around the coil/lead then it will pick up 'leaking' current - this sounded feasible and so I tried this and I and on the coil for the back two cylinders I "picked up" a run off current of ~2 - 4 mA but on the coil for the front two cylinders the same test turned up a reading of ~250 - 300 mA
    Is this conclusive enough to diagnose the fast it is the coil?
    and it not consistent enough to fueled by heat, because the heat varies so much when it dies and when it comes right again.

    Has any of you people got any bright ideas to add which I can test?

    The symptons I have been having sound very similar to the ones Vegan was suffering from in this thread here

    thanks
    chris
    Quote Originally Posted by Skyrider
    Stay away from busses on a bike. You're gonna lose.

  2. #2
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    30th March 2004 - 11:00
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    Are you sure it's electrical? Sometimes fuelling problems can feel like a misfire caused by something electrical.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by vifferman
    Are you sure it's electrical? Sometimes fuelling problems can feel like a misfire caused by something electrical.
    Yeah I thought about that, came for the conclusion that it is easier to test for an electrical problem than a fueling one.
    On a related note, can you put injector cleaner through a carbed bike?

    m/m
    Quote Originally Posted by Skyrider
    Stay away from busses on a bike. You're gonna lose.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mini_me
    Yeah I thought about that, came for the conclusion that it is easier to test for an electrical problem than a fueling one.
    On a related note, can you put injector cleaner through a carbed bike?
    Sure you can.
    But if it's particulate crap causing fuelling issues, it won't help. Nor will it help something like an air leak, or problem with the fuel tap.
    Just a quick thought - have you changed anything at all, like the type of petrol you use? I ask this because when I used 96 in the VFR750 I used to own, it misfired very badly.
    Some fueling things are easy enough to check for: check the fuel tap is allowing petrol through; check the tank vent isn't blocked; have a quick check of hoses for cracks, leaks, etc.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  5. #5
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    31st January 2005 - 20:53
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    Hey man, I don't know about using injector cleaner but I have used one of the STP or Wynns fuel system cleaners in my carbed bikes. Comes in a red plastic bottle, but I can't remember the exact name of it.

    Assuming you haven't allready I'd check all the basics:

    Good spark from all the plugs
    A healthy battery which stays charged overnight etc
    A healthy system voltage when the bike is running
    Clean fuel system delivering fuel to the carb(s)
    Clean air intake and filter

    Do this when the bike is cold first thing in the day, then monitor electrical system while bike is running and again as soon as it dies. You might gain a clue to the problem by monitoring it in these three states i.e. look for changes.

    I do have to wonder if the problem is brought on by changes in temperature seeing as there is a time factor involved before the onset of the problem and after a suitable wait period the bike will run again. Expansion of some element of the system due to heat could be introducing a problem, perhaps in an electrical connection.

    In my experience with electronics servicing, 90% of the time a fault is due to something physical such as a broken wire, dry solder joint or dry plug connection, open plug connection etc.

    You could also ask a friendly bike mechanic if you know one. Ricky and co at Mt Eden are pretty approachable.

    Good luck.
    Destroy Everything! Destroy Everything! Destroy Everything! Obliterate what makes us weak!

  6. #6
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    no change on the fuel front, been running it on 98 since I got it...
    I've pulled the fuel tap apart already just after I started having the problems and it apeared to be alright. The thing that gets me is it is soo inconsistent, like yesterday it died 3 times in 80k's of traveling but the last time it died was well over 1000 k's ago and the time before that was around 300k's prior to that
    and if it was a fuel blockage/air leak I would have expected the problems to be more consitent

    m/m
    Quote Originally Posted by Skyrider
    Stay away from busses on a bike. You're gonna lose.

  7. #7
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    In that case I'd say it is an intermittent electrical problem. There could be some clues in that thread started by Vegan. Regulator &/or rectifier. My mate Allun once had a burned spade lug on his regulator for his 400cc Katana which I think produced intermittent problems. He replaced the regulator and burned lugs and all was well.
    Destroy Everything! Destroy Everything! Destroy Everything! Obliterate what makes us weak!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashWylde
    Good spark from all the plugs
    yup
    Quote Originally Posted by SlashWylde
    A healthy battery which stays charged overnight etc
    yup
    Quote Originally Posted by SlashWylde
    A healthy system voltage when the bike is running
    yup
    Quote Originally Posted by SlashWylde
    Clean fuel system delivering fuel to the carb(s)
    Already done, but it was a while ago and symptons have persisted in the meantime
    Quote Originally Posted by SlashWylde
    Clean air intake and filter
    er - thats a very good point forgot about that one....
    Quote Originally Posted by SlashWylde
    Do this when the bike is cold first thing in the day, then monitor electrical system while bike is running and again as soon as it dies. You might gain a clue to the problem by monitoring it in these three states i.e. look for changes.

    I do have to wonder if the problem is brought on by changes in temperature seeing as there is a time factor involved before the onset of the problem and after a suitable wait period the bike will run again. Expansion of some element of the system due to heat could be introducing a problem, perhaps in an electrical connection.
    no, temperature is not a factor. I have had teh bike up to ~100 degrees in traffic and it doesnt die. And when it has died the temperature was in the normal operating range (80 - 90 degrees)
    Quote Originally Posted by Skyrider
    Stay away from busses on a bike. You're gonna lose.

  9. #9
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    ok NC30s

    Well I have had misfiring problems, KB and the rest suggested carbs for fuel air leak, took them out and cleaned a few times, not an easy task but it does get easy after a while. Problem turned out to be crap spark plugs, after running for a bit test if all the headers are as hot as each other *note maybe spit on them or something other than touching them, I melted a glove checkin once I had fixed the prob.

    Also had another prob with the eletrixery due to some absolutley shocking wiring which caused a crap connection and would cough and splutter and die especially in the wet

    linkys:
    Dirty NC30 needing tweaks
    SICK NC30
    electrixery diag

  10. #10
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    its not spark plugs...
    I have changed them and it has made no difference, I'm starting to suspect coils or leads
    does anyone know a good way test for faults?

    m/m
    Quote Originally Posted by Skyrider
    Stay away from busses on a bike. You're gonna lose.

  11. #11
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    Bad earth on your battery?
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  12. #12
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    Water in the fuel ?
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  13. #13
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    i had a problem like this, it turn out to be the vacuum pipe running from the carbs to the fuel tap. Well the problem stopped after I played around with that i think it was blocked or something.
    three can keep a secret,if two of them are dead.
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  14. #14
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    or the pipe from the tank to carb could be kinked, you can check the resistance between plug caps on each coil, do you have the workshop manual? download from www.400greybike.co.uk

  15. #15
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    Had a similer problem on by GSX600, except it was after a matter of kilometers. Turned out to be a kinked hose in the elaborite fuel system. Ran fine with the tank off, but kinked it when putting the tank back on 3 times! Anyway the intermittent faults are the hardest to track, good luck.

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