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Thread: Vacuum guage?

  1. #1
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    Vacuum guage?

    I need to balance me carbs. Anyone got one of those balancing thingies. For fzr 1000 exup, 4 cyl. ?????

    Ta

    Local would be cool too. I live Northshore.

  2. #2
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    If you are ever down here i will do it for ya for free. I had a FZR1000B for a few years. Awsome bike. Until i sold it to my Brother who slammed it into a bridge.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by R1madness
    If you are ever down here i will do it for ya for free. I had a FZR1000B for a few years. Awsome bike. Until i sold it to my Brother who slammed it into a bridge.
    Yeh they are good bikes. i had an r1 before, so I find this kinda heavy.

  4. #4
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    Why not roll your own manometer? http://www.ncf.ca/~ag136/carbsynch.htm

    Use a one metre rule for measurement purposes if required.

  5. #5
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    Haha ...I started to post to this thread , saying the same thing ,,but I used water ..hadnt thought about ATF , then i thought better not as no one will believe me !

    I bought a really good set as I was in the trade, and I found that the newer bike were ok to balance, but your older types ,,the carbs were worn and it was impossible to get them smack on. So I used a feeler guage get then all equal , and check the on the vacuum, then show customer when they came in ,,,
    The best ones i ever used were the electronic ones at honda ,,,it could sence the screwdriver coming near it ,,,and the difference was night and day ,,,you could hear the difference between the electronic and the dial !!

    anyway ,,hope you get sorted ,,,
    Stephen
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  6. #6
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    Yea they are heavy. Put a shock in it. There will be lots around for naf all.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian d'marge
    Haha ...I started to post to this thread , saying the same thing ,,but I used water ..hadnt thought about ATF , then i thought better not as no one will believe me !

    Stephen
    I've used a drill bit on the cb550, old tip I found a old Triumph twin manual. Works on mechanical slide not CV operated items I believe. Just use a cheap pair of vacuum gauges now, one for each pair of cylinders. Did have a mercury set but the mercury got tipped out during a posting transit.

    Last time I took the CB750Fc2 in for a professional balance it sounded no better than my febble efforts so don't bother now. On the twins I had I just disconnect the plug lead [don't do it on a BMW flat twin as it can stuff the cdi unit] on the no-adjustable carb set the idle at a certain rpm, connect the other plug lead, remove the non adjustable one and adjust that till it's idling the same as the non-adjustable one was. Then connect both and bring the idle down to the manufactures recomended setting.

    Like ya said there's no way to get badly worn carbs perfectly balanced.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonez
    Why not roll your own manometer? http://www.ncf.ca/~ag136/carbsynch.htm

    Use a one metre rule for measurement purposes if required.
    Well I've just come in from Balancing my carbs on the GSXR400 which was runing reall ruff and was very unresponsive. After making up a the carb balancer described in this article. It runs so much better and is very responsive. Well worth the $15 or less I paid to make it. For people after ideas for the end bits to screw into the carbs I used a couple grease nibbles with the ball bearings punched out with a nail.
    Life is difficult because it is non-linear.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhunt
    Well I've just come in from Balancing my carbs on the GSXR400 which was runing reall ruff and was very unresponsive. After making up a the carb balancer described in this article. It runs so much better and is very responsive. Well worth the $15 or less I paid to make it. For people after ideas for the end bits to screw into the carbs I used a couple grease nibbles with the ball bearings punched out with a nail.
    Good on ya Dave.

    Here's a pick of my setup. Just got a fitting with 4 small taps today from "Wet Pets" and used one of my cheapy vacuum gauges. Works a treat too. I had apapter tubes left over from my redundent mercury set. You use the taps to dampen the needle, otherwise on full open it swings all over the place.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonez
    Good on ya Dave.

    Here's a pick of my setup. Just got a fitting with 4 small taps today from "Wet Pets" and used one of my cheapy vacuum gauges. Works a treat too. I had apapter tubes left over from my redundent mercury set. You use the taps to dampen the needle, otherwise on full open it swings all over the place.
    A very impressive set.

    Now here's a question for you. After getting the bike going I was giving it a few revs to test it and the engine was getting reasonably hot (about 1/2+ of the scale) then it suddenly blew the fuse. I put in a new fuse and it blew that straight away but after leaving it for a few hours it is sweet again. I'm sure it must be once it gets up to temp and suppose to turn the fan but I can't find the fan relay so I think it must have been removed when the fan was. Have you got any other ideas what would do this when the engine is hot?
    Life is difficult because it is non-linear.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhunt
    A very impressive set.

    Now here's a question for you. After getting the bike going I was giving it a few revs to test it and the engine was getting reasonably hot (about 1/2+ of the scale) then it suddenly blew the fuse. I put in a new fuse and it blew that straight away but after leaving it for a few hours it is sweet again. I'm sure it must be once it gets up to temp and suppose to turn the fan but I can't find the fan relay so I think it must have been removed when the fan was. Have you got any other ideas what would do this when the engine is hot?
    No idea, sorry. I'm sure those more experienced mechanics could shed some light. I'm just a do it yourselfer after all. Why was the fan removed? It pays to, when balancing carbs, to have some sort cooling fan on the engine, especially air cooled beasties like mine.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonez
    No idea, sorry. I'm sure those more experienced mechanics could shed some light. I'm just a do it yourselfer after all. Why was the fan removed? It pays to, when balancing carbs, to have some sort cooling fan on the engine, especially air cooled beasties like mine.
    Not sure why the fan was removed it, I got the bike in kitset form. ie box of extra parts that have to get fitted somehow. Lots of fun. I'm planning on putting it back on before I ride the bike.
    Life is difficult because it is non-linear.

  13. #13
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    Could be that when the fan was removed a short was caused in the circuit.And when the temp switch tries to turn the fan on the fuse blows.
    The fan socket hasn't been shorted out has it?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonez
    Good on ya Dave.

    Here's a pick of my setup. Just got a fitting with 4 small taps today from "Wet Pets" and used one of my cheapy vacuum gauges. Works a treat too. I had apapter tubes left over from my redundent mercury set. You use the taps to dampen the needle, otherwise on full open it swings all over the place.
    Go to a pneumatics supplier (Ash Air or IMI Norgren etc) and get a flow conrol.
    Put it in the line to the guage,it'll make the damping of the needle consistent over all 4 taps.This is important for accurate adjustment.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pixie
    Go to a pneumatics supplier (Ash Air or IMI Norgren etc) and get a flow conrol.
    Put it in the line to the guage,it'll make the damping of the needle consistent over all 4 taps.This is important for accurate adjustment.
    You mean a bit a round plastic with a wee hole, pin size, in it to stuff down the tube with the guage attached? Or a just another tap inline with the guage setting it so the needle wont fluctuate then placing a dab of silicon sealent over it.

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