Street Magic repairs

[MrMelon]

I'm trying to give the street magic a bit of a tidy up at the moment. The fork bushes feel like they're shot. The inner leg has a lot of lateral movement within the outer. I've dropped the fork legs out, but can't seem to get them apart. There's a 6mm hex nut at the bottom of them which seems to turn freely, and I couldn't see a circlip under the dust seal to pull off. How do you get them apart and replace the bushes? Are the bushes a standard part you can buy or get a kit or something?

Also it's really down on power compared to how it used to be, but its still has its days where it feels like it's got balls (for a street magic). It's done over 10,000kms now and everything is stock. Would worn variator rollers give a drop in power, or inconsistent power delivery? What else would? Are they cheap enough to get new oem ones?

I was talking to a dude about the inconsistent power problem the other day and he suggested that I check a little plastic sprocket under the carb which controls the oil delivery and make sure the teeth still look ok. I've taken the airbox off but can't for the life of me figure out where to go next to get to this part. Help!

[retep130]

i have a street magic parts book, japanese of course. In the diagram it goes hex bolt, thingy that holds the wheel and calipers, rubber seal, then a circlip. If thats any help . just ask if you want any more info.

Either way I would recommend that you give coleman suzuki a call, they have diagrams of all the parts and I ordered quite a bit of stuff off them when i had my tr50

[WINJA]

THE OIL DELIVERY PROB WAS PREVELANT ON THE MODEL WITH ALUMINIUM FOOT PEGS AND ROUND INDICATORS.
IF THE POWER IS INCONSISTENT CHECK THYE ROLLERS AND IF YOU CAN GET OE THEY ARE THE MOST DURABLE , CHECK FOR FLATSPOTS , A GOOD TEST IS TO PUT ANTISEIZE ON THEM and REASSEMBLE AND SEE IF IT FEELS FASTER.
ALSO CHECK THE BELT IS NOT TO STRETCHED OR WORN .
ALWAYS CHECK THE FLOAT BOWL AND CARB , CLEAN WITH CARB CLEANER AND AIR ONLKY , DONT POKE THE HOLE ESPECIALLY THE PILOT JET CAUSE ITS EASY TO FUCK AND IT THEN RUNS RICH DOWN LOW

[WINJA]

the last time i tested my oil delivery i just put premix in the tank then pulled off the delivery tube and just above idle made sure it dribbled oil , very slowly , imagine a dribble that takes 800km to leak 1000 ml

[Nutter34]

Any other fork info would be appreciated. My forks bushes are also shot. Was going to try do something soon.
You have any other advice Winja?

Thanks.

[MrMelon]

Cool thanks. I've decided to flag pulling the forks apart for now. Seems like a big hassle for fuckall gain. I've got the round indicator aluminium peg model. I'll check the belts and rollers once i've got the exhaust bolt that snapped off out. You've just gotta take the kick starter off then take the black cover on the side of the engine off to get at them right?

[WINJA]

Cool thanks. I've decided to flag pulling the forks apart for now. Seems like a big hassle for fuckall gain. I've got the round indicator aluminium peg model. I'll check the belts and rollers once i've got the exhaust bolt that snapped off out. You've just gotta take the kick starter off then take the black cover on the side of the engine off to get at them right?

YEAH I COULDNT BE FUCKED DOING MY FORKS AND THEYVE GONE LOTS OF PLAY.
THATS IT TAKE OFF THE KICKSTARTER AND THEN THE COVER AND THEN THE NUT INSIDE THE RATCHET FOR THE KICK STARTER.
DO YOURSELF A FAVOUR AND REPLACE THOSE HORIBLE SIDE COVER SCREWS WITH STAINLESS CAP SCREWS , THE BROKEN EXHAUST STUDS ARE USUALLY EASY TO GET OUT IVE DONE A FEW NOW

[MrMelon]

I found this translated japanese site which has a bit of info about all the different model street magics and problems and shit. Some of it's a bit hard to follow but you can get the general idea.

http://64.233.179.104/translate_c?hl...l%3Den%26lr%3D