Chain, help!

[Motoracer]

Hi guys, I was just wondering if any of yous had a good trick to take off a chain with a non detachable link from my bike.

[White trash]

Hi guys, I was just wondering if any of yous had a good trick to take off a chain with a non detachable link from my bike.

Find the rivet link, grab an angle grinder and grind off the end of the pins flush with the side plates. Then punch the pins out.

Go and get another rivet link joining link to replace it when reinstalling the chain.

Whats wrong with it anyway?

[merv]

If you haven't got a chain breaking and rivetting tool you may as well take it into a shop because as WT has said above you have to basically wreck the rivetted link to take the chain off and without the right tools you aren't going to put a new one together.

[Motoracer]

Kewl thanx, the chain's fucket! the wheel is set all the way back on the swing arm and still the chain is loose as.

hey, I was going to PM you about the chain size. Do you know what size I am suppose to use? I know how many links but whats the other measurement of it.

[White trash]

That has a 520 conversion on it.

Bear in mind to leave enough room for larger sprockets, Johann sold it with Pukekohe gearing so it's as small a rear sprocket as you'll ever use.

You should also run the chain a little looser than you would a normal road bike and lubricate it with a DRY lube after every race.

[pete376403]

Depending on the frame layout you can sometimes get the chain off unbroken by removing the swingarm. It would be a major to do it this way, you'd have to have a really good reason.

[Angry Puppy]

I used a Dremel-style hobby hand drill with a grinding bit to grind off the side of the pin, but at the end of the day, as they guys above have said, you may as well invest in a decent breaker and riveter. Use it a few time and it will have paid for itself.

Fazer Bloke

[Motoracer]

Thanx guys, I'll work out something from all of your great advises. The chain has WAY too much sideways bend in it for reuse so its prolly time to depart with it.

Just 1 more Q, why would I want to use a non-detachable link type anyway? It just seems like a pain in the arse! From memory, other racers like Dave and ho-hoon had the detachable types on their race bikes. Apart from the safety issue of the clip comming off, there are no other reasons right?

P.S. I looked at the work involved in getting it out without taking the link off and lets just say that I am not even going go there.

[Big Dog]

Just 1 more Q, why would I want to use a non-detachable link type anyway? It just seems like a pain in the arse! From memory, other racers like Dave and ho-hoon had the detachable types on their race bikes. Apart from the safety issue of the clip comming off, there are no other reasons right?

Because under heavy acceleration they can snap or deform..... not an issue under 70hp or in road applications...... but they do have a shorter life span.

I saw breaker kits starting at $70 odd in a motomail mailer... so they should be cheaper elsewhere. From memory they also had sets with the joiner tools for as well $150. Try www.Motomail.co.nz search criteria breaker for the latest prices.

[k14]

Can't you just remove a link and then it will be alright??

[svs]

Can't you just remove a link and then it will be alright??

Nah. If the chains buggered, then its buggered and needs replacing. Good way to tell if the chain is stretched is to try and lift it where it goes round the rear sprocket. If you can lift it far enough to see a reasonable amount of tooth then chain is stretched. A new chain should sit fairly tight round the sprocket. just my 2 cents.

[merv]

Just 1 more Q, why would I want to use a non-detachable link type anyway? It just seems like a pain in the arse! From memory, other racers like Dave and ho-hoon had the detachable types on their race bikes. Apart from the safety issue of the clip comming off, there are no other reasons right?

Its a strength issue as Big Dog says. No bike manufacturer would recommend a clip type joining link on a bike with any power to speak of. Even my 250 dirt bikes have rivetted chain links.

[Big Dog]

Nah. If the chains buggered, then its buggered and needs replacing. Good way to tell if the chain is stretched is to try and lift it where it goes round the rear sprocket. If you can lift it far enough to see a reasonable amount of tooth then chain is stretched. A new chain should sit fairly tight round the sprocket. just my 2 cents.

As I understand it that just means it needs adjusting.

To test wether it needs replacing adjust it then grab the bottom run of chain and see how much it will rotate. A new chain won't. as the bushes get more worn it rotates further. Basically if you can rotate it more than a few degrees it's knackered.

[Big Dog]

Also as I understand it if you angle grind it off it will burn the bushes. I was told this was only a real option where you were going to change it or where a pin is warped and you plan to take another link out with a link breaker.

[merv]

SVS is right, if you pull the chain at the middle of its run around the rear sprocket and it comes out to about the height of the teeth its kaput. No use adjusting it, that will only pull it tight on the first teeth top and bottom.

As for burning bushes and stuff, by the time you need to remove a rivetted link its time to throw the whole chain in your wheeliebin and fit a new one, or as I said above if you don't have the tools get the bike to a shop (before you've removed the joining link and find you can't fit a new one yourself).

However if the bike has a small back sprocket can you get away with a chain two links shorter or do you need to go back to stock gearing?

WT you said the bike had a 520 conversion - what is it normally - 530?

If so Motoracer what use are you putting the bike to are you racing it? If not maybe consider going back to stock which I'm guessing is a stronger 530 chain with wider sprocket teeth - more friction I guess but should last longer. Many shops can sell you chain and sprocket kits for not much more than the price of a chain so no need to worry about the cost of sprockets if you are buying a chain anyway.