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Thread: Clear Adhesive - tricks?

  1. #1
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    Clear Adhesive - tricks?

    I want to buy some clear adhesive sheets for protecting the tail section of my bike (and parts of my tank), so I have a couple of questions:

    1. Where should I get this stuff? I could buy it in 1m sections from bike places at $30 a pop, but are there cheaper/better solutions? Ive heard someone mention 3M stuff. Zapf?

    2. The angles on the Hornet tail-section are really tight (ie from the top part to the bottom part). Can I shape the stuff fairly extensively with something akin to a heat-gun/hairdrier. I would LOVE to do the tail section in two peices, not 10.

    3. Got any tricks for shaping, cutting, general etc? Most of the edges are under seats and hidden sO have that going for me.

    Had a check for this topic in old threads but couldnt find any. Apologies in advance if its been done to death.

    Thanks.
    "If life gives you a shit sandwich..." someone please complete this expression

  2. #2
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    I've seen 3M stone protectors on eBay, can't remember how much tho.
    I think a lot of bike shops stock them, I know that Cycletreads up here has them, or can get hold of them. Most of them are precut to the bike already, which is cool. Just sticking them on without bubbles is the trick

    Don't forget the good ol' hair dryer to help warm the film up, so it can take angles and edges better.

  3. #3
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    I've put on small sections by myself ok but if you want a big job done, get a professional to do it as they are quick, neat and don't leave air bubbles. They spray soapy water behind the film to stop it sticking. Stripe and Moulding motor trimmers in Hamilton did mine for about $200 but that was 4 years ago. Ask at the places which do window tints and body striping. Should be plenty of them in your area.

  4. #4
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    i know of a 3M product (cant remember the name) that rather than adhesing to the surface actually forms a vacuum to the surface, that way you dont get streching around the edges, and it doenst leave a mark when you take it off.

    was designed with bikes in mind.

    an idea for cutting the stuff out (whatever way you go, is to use paper like fabricators do when making tricky parts on custom cars/bikes. Basically use lots of paper to do it til you get it right, then know what shape it has to be for it to lay over the area correctly.
    KiwiBitcher
    where opinion holds more weight than fact.

    It's better to not pass and know that you could have than to pass and find out that you can't. Wait for the straight.

  5. #5
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    Ta for the advice guys.
    Yeah a pro might be a better idea. Ive heard $300 for a fully faired bike so a tail section on mine might be sig cheaper maybe.
    "If life gives you a shit sandwich..." someone please complete this expression

  6. #6
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    you'd bloody well hope so
    KiwiBitcher
    where opinion holds more weight than fact.

    It's better to not pass and know that you could have than to pass and find out that you can't. Wait for the straight.

  7. #7
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    THe stuff is called scuff guard.

    It will conform a little but if its a deep swage at will go in with a heat gun/hair dryer, but as it cools down it will return to it's orginal shape. Then you get dirt and crap underneath which looks pretty crappy.

    As Gareth said make a template of each section, if there's a peice that looks like it won't conform, then finish that peice there and then over lay another peice by about 5 mm as the stuff shrinks back over time.

    Stripe and moulding would be the place to get it.

    PM me if you need any more help.

    Cheers Paul D.

  8. #8
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    I use Scuff Proof on my bikes and it takes a bit of stretch to bend around corners but its not great for tight corners - stretch it but it will creep back with time.

    Also check this thread out about Tankslapper http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...tank+protector
    Cheers

    Merv

  9. #9
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    The pro's use a 3M product,which like all 3M products is the best.
    The solution they use to help position it is a water alcohol (iso-propenol) and a tiny bit of detergent mix.
    They don't use heat,and avoid stretching the film,as it will shink back if it is stretched.
    The film is applied first and then excess is trimmed by scoring the surface with a hobby knife and tearing away the excess.
    The stuff the bike shops sell is not the 3M product, but can be applied the same way,with the exception of the alcohol/water mix as this does not work with this stuff.
    Double curvature surfaces require cuts to get the film to conform without lifting.

    If you find someone who sells the 3M material in quantities less than a whole roll,let me know.

  10. #10
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    It looks more and more like Ill have to do this professionally.
    Ta guys.
    "If life gives you a shit sandwich..." someone please complete this expression

  11. #11
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    Definitely DON'T use the bikeshop crap. It is thick, non-conformable, shrinks, lifts etc. Total rubbish.
    DO USE the 3M stuff. There are several types as regards gloss and thickness. Do get it fitted by a pro (I am one....or not, see Cowpoos siggy ). If someone says use soapy water, or indeed IPA/water with a bit of soap, then steer clear - the soap reacts with the adhesive & turns yellow over time.
    Rule of thumb to know if the fitted price is realistic - 1000mm x 100mm fitted should be around $25.00 (factor up a bit if job is difficult).
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS
    If someone says use soapy water, or indeed IPA/water with a bit of soap, then steer clear - the soap reacts with the adhesive & turns yellow over time.
    Hmmm.... wonder if there are several types of film then? When stripe and Moulding did mine nearly 5 years ago, they used a soapy-looking spray and it's still perfect.

  13. #13
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    Then it is one of two things......not a 3M film/adhesive, or 3M have reformulated their adhesive (and not told me) since I was trained in application.
    A point to note here - there are many brands of clear protective film, some of which use 3M adhesive and some their own.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS
    Then it is one of two things......not a 3M film/adhesive, or 3M have reformulated their adhesive (and not told me) since I was trained in application.
    A point to note here - there are many brands of clear protective film, some of which use 3M adhesive and some their own.

    You may well be right. Slightly off topic, but there was a thread a couple of years ago about how ugly the white Velcro adhesive patches were that held Ventura headlight protectors in place, as well as them going furry after a while. I wrote to Dold Industries asking them whether they’d ever thought of using the 3M Dual Lock, which is available in clear and doesn’t lose grip due to the different method of locking.

    They replied that the adhesive which 3M uses on Dual Lock wasn’t up to the job. However, I decided to give it a go and it’s been fine for 2 years, with plenty of protector removals. Maybe they do change their adhesive formulations without notice as part of continuous improvement. It certainly happens in other industries as Mrs Blackbird started coming out in a rash from her favourite perfume and it transpired that Elisabeth Arden have changed it.

  15. #15
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    Yea Blackbird - you have a point. Sometimes formulae are altered to reduce costs rather than improve performance too. In the automotive paint industry it is common for pigments to be changed, making the painter's matching job a nightmare.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

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