nsr, fzr, tzr, gsxr, cbr, rgv, zxr

[lb99]

I owned a 1987 NSR 250 MC16, it was quite quick, but was very uncomfortable on long trips, and quite unforgiving at slow speeds, but it was also a very reliable bike for me, it always started, and ran ok, though it did use lots of gas but by 28000km it was flogged out, front and rear disks needed replacing, swing arm bushes, wheel bearings, shock, forks- all needed work, and to cap it off the chap I sold it to found the bridge between the ports on the front barrel had cracked, causing the piston and barrel to self destruct, it still ran but not very well, I definatley got the best 10000km out of that bike, it was never the same even after having big $$$ spent on it, the people I know with similar bikes, KR1, RGV ect all had similar problems at similar ks, whereas the 250/4s just kept on going and going (within reason).In hindsight I should have stuck to a commuter GN, VT, CB, until I had my full then brought a 600, much more fun and usually cheaper than a fast 250.

[N4CR]

Yeah just to explain about ZXR reliability a bit more... there are really two things, one is simple one is a bit of money to get done.

Most common things: fork seals and camchain.

Forkseals - just wipe them down when they get rained on and every weekend or whenever you can remember (at least every weekend) - they puncture when seals slide down over the metal surface and hit dried dust and sand and general shit buildup. (Hardens after application etc).

Basically just keep em clean and when you buy CHECK for rust on the forks it will feel rough, usually from stone chips, it can be sanded out with a very very fine sandpaper or else just re-chromed... $300 probably though.

Camchain - supposed to last 20k, but I find you can get about 40k+ on average, you know when it gets loose when you rbike starts making ticking noises and sounds like a diesel... very bad, eats rocker covers when it get's very close to breaking. Do it at 20k and don't worry about it. Same time get your valve shims done along with carb tune etc. Valve shims... noone gets them done but I'd reccomend it (ZXR250's aren't knowing for dropping valves but i'd rather havet he security and peace of mind knowing it is all going to run reliably).

Oil: Mt Eden MC uses silkoline which I find to be shit with zx2r's, run motul 5100 you won't get clutch slipping or gear popping, change at 5000km's of riding or there abouts, change filter at same time, no point in keeping dirty oil filter to put shit back into the oil.
Do plugs every 10k or else your bike starts burning badly and smelling like shit, great way to piss people off when you pass them though .
TUNE YOUR CARBS AFTER GETTING A AFTERMARKET PIPE. I cannot stress this enough. My carbs are (need tuning though now...) tuned for almost non existant backpressure pipe so when I stuck stock one on for a WOF I nearly got creamed pulling out with the stock pipe for some reason.. it was so friggen slow due to inccorrect tuning I guess?

Check rear shock when buying too, rust will kill the seal, these are not re-buildable shocks so you will need a 2nd hand one if it dies (rare but does happen.. wipe it every now and then as well).

Clean your bike, good way to check for faults. Pulling off all the fairngs and spraying CRC into the electrical joints/plugs is a good way to stop water in winter etc.

Do coolants every 15k or so, easy to do as well.

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

Oh yeah if you want a cheap fun bike check out a well looked after rg150... they can keep up with most 250's when tuned properly apart from the 2 smokes.

edit: another thing with zxrs, after periods of heavy breaking (quick stops in traffic etc) don't hold brakes on in one spot, let them go, you can warp discs easily on these as your brake pads create hotspots and hot metal stretches more than colder metal eh - also happens on CBR's but not as much (they ride too slow to use brakes much anyway :P) and most other bikes with slightly thinner discs (250's usually).

[hXc]

edit: another thing with zxrs, after periods of heavy breaking (quick stops in traffic etc) don't hold brakes on in one spot, let them go, you can warp discs easily on these as your brake pads create hotspots and hot metal stretches more than colder metal eh - also happens on CBR's but not as much (they ride too slow to use brakes much anyway :P) and most other bikes with slightly thinner discs (250's usually).

Happens to most bikes dip shit...

[ferretface]

Happens to most bikes dip shit...

Mieeeooww! Wheres ya handbag?

What he's saying is that some bikes are more susceptible to stuff than others (but i'm sure a mature 15 year old knows that already)

[JT.]

Happens to most bikes dip shit...

It can happen to any disc brake... bike, car or motorbike.

If you have some riding experience then a CBR, ZXR, FZR, GSXR is going to be a good choice but have a ride of a few and if you like one model more than another make sure you find one in good condition. This is more important than the model IMO, models are just preference. I would recommend getting something post '90 as they are starting to get on and later models went through some good changes. Do some research on the net about the different models of each when you decide. Don't rule out a bandit either, the newer model 96+ has the same engine as the gsxr250 and is naked so has good power and no fairings to damage if you do come off.

[hXc]

I would recommend getting something post '90 as they are starting to get on and later models went through some good changes.

Post '93 have a 40hp restriction. In my opinion, pre '93 would be better. You will get easily bored with less than 40hp on those sorts of bikes

[Sketchy_Racer]

Meh just go to your local Lawn mower shop, Steal a weedeater engine

Pinch ya old mans bicycle and wellah!!

You have a KRR150

[Rosie]

Meh just go to your local Lawn mower shop, Steal a weedeater engine

Pinch ya old mans bicycle and wellah!!

You have a KRR150

No! My KRR is a proper motorcycle
It has fairings just like a real sports bike.
It's not just a scooter with big wheels, it's, its

[texmo]

Post '93 have a 40hp restriction. In my opinion, pre '93 would be better. You will get easily bored with less than 40hp on those sorts of bikes

year means nothing you can have a made in 1989 thats registered in 1999 making it a 1999, anywho i had a mc22 1990 cbr250rr and it only have like 28hp at the wheel.

[Kwaka-Kid]

lots of good, bad, and interesting information here! and i guess what it comes down to is the buyers ability to filter/choose best according to his/her own interperetation of it all.

As for year not mattering? It Kinda does sorry Texmo, at least for the 400's it was post 1994 that Japan changed the laws on a 400cc 4cyl race reps from 59PS to 53PS, however it was more of an agreement on what they were advertised on having... not forgetting the fact that there was still a UK Market for them etc.

the only last thing that got my attention was a ZXR250 having 15% more torque then a CBR250RR? Errr... ? Thats quite a statement to make, id love to see some genuine proof of that? As they are all so much of a muchness i dont think there is that much in it, like the 400's.

Anyways, whatever it comes down to, will more then likly be price, and condition. of the 4 cyl 4 strokes they are all great bikes, with the yamahas being a tiny bit more fidley having Ex-up (2KR?). Oh and all rear shocks are like spring only on all those old things anyway aint they?!

[texmo]

it does but its stupid to go off years as in new zealand it is based by year of registration wouldnt it just be easier to go off model ?

[N4CR]

the only last thing that got my attention was a ZXR250 having 15% more torque then a CBR250RR? Errr... ? Thats quite a statement to make, id love to see some genuine proof of that?

On paper mate... (yeah I know.. paper). ZX2R is 25nm from memory and the cbr is 20. Roughly 15%. Alot of people who have ridden both commented that the C model ZXR has a bit more tug down low than the RR and that probably confirms this slight advantage. I don't know where a dyno is that does torque I can stick this on to proove it though.

[Sketchy_Racer]

No! My KRR is a proper motorcycle
It has fairings just like a real sports bike.
It's not just a scooter with big wheels, it's, its

They may sound like a scooter......... but its all about the speed


Heheheh and it can keep some guys on 1000cc bikes more than honest in the corners......

[Rosie]

They may sound like a scooter......... but its all about the speed

And I ride like a nana. There is no hope

[Jamezo]

I don't know where a dyno is that does torque I can stick this on to proove it though.

All of them?

IMHO: ZXR250C > CBR250RR > CBR250R > ZXR250A > FZR250 ........ > GSX-R250 (teh sux)

The single-R hurricane CBRs are not a bad bike at all, if you can find one that's been reasonably cared for.

And of course, there is no better bang for your buck in NZ than a good ol' RG150!