GIXXER makeover

[Shazuki]

Hi all, I have my first bike ..................haven't even taken it for a ride :disapint: it is getting a desperately needed makeover. Thought you guys might like some mild correspondence about how things are going.........will try to put some pics in here too.
So far.........pulled engine out, was told that one cylinder was shot, but compression tested them and all four were identical ( all tested to 90PSI - as accurate as we tested?) Problem we did find was the magnetic ring around the armetur to be broken Don't know how bad an impact that would have had on the bike running???? Will be looking to replace this part while the engine is out. Next....... one of the carberators has a tear in the rubber boot :disapint: looks like a replace job too. Took rocker cover off and all looks sweet in there Madandy is in charge of the engine department.....I'm just the apprentice that gets to clean a lot! :disapint: Although any thoughts or "where to go for bits" would be appreciated.
Next......Have degreased and cleaned frame basically stripped down without removing all of the wiring, for fear of not knowing where to put things back together Sanded and primed frame, ready for a lick of top coat to make it all pretty. Next.......Brakes to replace and warped rotars I think, not sure if they can be fixed or replace? Forks will need a service once she is back together. When all back topgether I plan to get all farings sprayed up and get some styly stickers made so she looks like a mini 1000..........maybe I should wait till I give her a few rides incase, god forbid I drop her Can't wait for the weekend to crack on with this..................keep you posted If no pics I obviously couldn't do it??????

[pete376403]

If the torn rubber boot was between the engine and the carb then that would explain the "one cylinder shot" theory.

[DEATH_INC.]

G.P. Trading are down your way and are worth a shot for parts .Got a mate up here who is a gun with painting and making graphics(not real cheap though) if you're interested.....

[Shazuki]

Cheers Pete & Death, will pass on the info about the carb to Andy. Been to GP trading to give him an idea of what I might need, depends on timing and money. The paint dude sounds good, maybe I'll keep that in mind and see how many pingers I have left at the end. P.S say hi to Draco Death.

[FROSTY:Me]

shazuki -where is the rubber boot--Is it the diaphram inside the carb?
A little trick to try
Get a bicycle tyre repair kit and apply a thin bead of glue into the split. Let the glue tack off a little and smooth it out. When it dries it retains the flexibility of the rest of the diaphram.
-It has about a 75% success rate but at $10 a go it might save ya a few bucks

[Shazuki]

thanks xj...........will add to the list to check out and try! cheers ..........love the help and knowledge shared on this site!

[Shazuki]

Andy says it IS the diafragm inside the carb, so will give your little vulcaniser test a shot.

[White trash]

Andy says it IS the diafragm inside the carb, so will give your little vulcaniser test a shot.

I priced a diaphragm for my girlfriends GSXR250 a couple of years back.

$425 ex Japan

Hope the ol' tyre repair kit thing works for you.

[Shazuki]

I priced a diaphragm for my girlfriends GSXR250 a couple of years back.

$425 ex Japan

Hope the ol' tyre repair kit thing works for you.

YIKES! I hope xj's plan works too..............don't want to put off getting it on the road for too long.

[erik]

I priced a diaphragm for my girlfriends GSXR250 a couple of years back.

$425 ex Japan

Hope the ol' tyre repair kit thing works for you.

... and I thought $25 for a single O-ring for inside one of my carbs was expensive. Jeeze, if I somehow damaged all 4 diaphragms on my bike, it would almost be cheaper to by myself a whole new (second hand) bike, if the diaphragms are similarly priced.

Shazuki, good luck. I'm looking forward to those photos .

[FROSTY:Me]

YA AINT KIDDING-xj750 diaphrams get lil piunholes all the time because of the bikes age.
If my trick doesnt work Id try buying a set of carbs adn swap the whole diaphram/jet set over from one set to the other

[merv]

I've never done it on a carb diaphragm but good old black silicone RTV works wonders on CV joint boots on cars if you have a small tear so I'm guessing it would work well on the carb rubber provided you don't slap it on too thick it is very flexible and stands up to all sorts of punishment. Available at any hardware store even in the small packs at the Selleys bar and the like and is probably better than tube repair glue.

Just a question of those in the know (WT with your shop experience) - 90psi sounds bloody feeble to me for a high compression engine - I would have thought more like 140 would be OK? I know they were all even but to me they don't sound good all the same and I presume that was at crank over engine speed with the starter motor.

[Shazuki]

Think I have managed to enter these pics ok The picture quality may be poor though due to inexpensive camera.

Merv, thanks for your input............I hope we don't have a big problem with the PSI reading so low Hope that we got a gauge that is reading low, we had the motor on the bench and kicked it over from a battery????? Will have to cross my fingers when the engine goes back in a we finally get to hear her running

[FROSTY:Me]

Think I have managed to enter these pics ok The picture quality may be poor though due to inexpensive camera.

Merv, thanks for your input............I hope we don't have a big problem with the PSI reading so low Hope that we got a gauge that is reading low, we had the motor on the bench and kicked it over from a battery????? Will have to cross my fingers when the engine goes back in a we finally get to hear her running

hold fire a mo--- Whilst ya got the motor out check and reset all the valves to their correct settings. There is a tollerence range for em> Make sure you don't have over tight valves cos this causes a low compression reading ( I ALWAYS set my valves to the loosest setting available. She might rattle a bit on startup but you wont loose performance when she warms up.)
Also---(Now please someone corect this old guys memory iof I'm wrong )
Don't swet the low compression just cranking her over. sometimes those readings are bunk.
Once youve done all that if ya still got low readings I'd suggest hauling the head off and give her a valve grind. Low compression on one of those lil 250's is more likely by far to be in the head not deeper down

[madandy]

I reckon the "low compression" is no worry. My guage is older than me.I bought It form a Austrian Diesel mechanic(my traing is in Diesel) who must have had it for a long time 'cause he'd been retired for a million years or more
So probably a guage callibration issue. I'm happy to let her be for now 'cause getting four identical readings on this engine makes me pretty chuffed.And yes I tested eack cylinder three times...thay all came back at 90psi.All four spark plags were in identical condition too, Despite one carb diafragm being shot.

She's a bucket tappet & shim job too, if the valve clearances were dodgy but are all even and I dont want to pull her down if I dont have to.Xjxjxj I concur with your lose settings preference.If I find the factory tolerances I will hope they match current gaps.

Andy