Here's a pic of the powervalves, effing dirty but otherwise they look alright?
no, not alright.
gimmie 5 mins, i'll have more explination
I suffer from hooliganism.... Know me before you judge me
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...7&postcount=83
i need to practice my "this shit doesn't burn" faceWelcome, ZorsT.
You last visited: 1st November 2007 at 22:15
okay, i've gotten your picture and added some things.
This was all done by memory, so i may be missing some things
edit: alal screw is typo for alan screw.
when you put things back together, it would be advisible to use loctite on the screw that has come out, it seems to be one of many weak points of suzuki powervlaves...
I suffer from hooliganism.... Know me before you judge me
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...7&postcount=83
i need to practice my "this shit doesn't burn" faceWelcome, ZorsT.
You last visited: 1st November 2007 at 22:15
From a quick google here is what i pulled up www.dansmc.com/powervalve.htm
Also note this quote from muga, I dont need to service my bike.Also remember that these things require regular maintenance to remove carbon. On most Race bikes that means cleaning and readjusting them every seven (7) to twelve (12) hours of running.
Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot
Methods for removing carbon: i use a small screwdriver to scrape it off, i have heard of others who put the valves into a bag full of oven cleaner.
If your going to use a screwdriver, take care not to scratch the metal.
when you put the valves back in, be sure to lube them up with some of your 2-stroke oil beforehand.
I suffer from hooliganism.... Know me before you judge me
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...7&postcount=83
i need to practice my "this shit doesn't burn" faceWelcome, ZorsT.
You last visited: 1st November 2007 at 22:15
haha your valves probably weren't too far off mine.
And as a note, those springs x2 and the thing that holds them the 'stopper' is like $10-15 I cant remember, I ordered some for my bike 2 days ago. Easily less than $20 though, unlike the valves themselves...![]()
All I can say is.. be pleased they dont come out looking like mine!
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And yes i'm aware the replacement is for the opposite side, i'm getting both replaced while im at it.so.. poor haha
From the position you're at you could pull the head off easily. If your valves are fine, and they dont look nearly as bad as mine (which made no horrible clonking noise either, although Im sure i purchased it after it had worn down) then you should look further down for the problem, plus its also pretty easy to clean the top of the piston.![]()
A cool $302 eachWish the previous owners had taken some more care!
Originally Posted by Magua
Genius, You know I cant spell And I never said I could or care. And the supra? Nearly every coolant pipe was perrished and cracked. Now genius do you know what happens when you have cracks in your coolant pipes? I would guess not as you are infact a woman with no tools. You get whats called air lock (and loss of coolant). Air heats up alot quicker that water and it causes the car to overheat. And dont say that with in 40mins of buying the car that I cracked those pipes. Call me stupid for buying a car off a black man without checking it out properly - but don't say I broke the car.
Nb; There were other things that were wrong but the main reason for the overheating was the cracked pipes.
Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot
My RG had the same problem with the clip and springs not being attached. I tried fixing it myself and it was running better but not by much. I took it to the Motomart and they fixed that and de-coked the pipe for $300 (there went my tyre money). They mentioned that someone had been mucking around with the valves (I said nothing...) and one of them was stuck open. By all means give it a go and get the springs in and go for a test blat, but it might be wise to get an expert to sort it out
I was fortunate that my valves were perfect condition however. Once I replace the piston and ring the bike should be perfect![]()
Annnd to get back on topic..
Take off the orange and red, yes the head will come off. Shouldn't need to pull the green screws for the water inlet, unless you want to I guess??
And for some reason if you want to take the cyl out like I did to check for piston damage you'll probably need some ring spanners to get a couple of the nuts. Should be 4 or 5 - very straight forward. Afterwards you'll probably have to loosen it with a rubber mallet gently to break the seal - and get a new gasket.
Of course thats only if you're going to take that off, just looking in at the top of the piston will enable you to clean it etc. I'd probably pull the cyl out too like I did, then you can check a little down low in relation to the random engine noises. See if you have any random play or graunching when moving the piston etc.
Fuck, fuckity, fuck, fuck, fuck.
I removed the head, np. Valves seem to be fine. I found the bracket, springs and screw good as gold. But I can't get that damned bar out that holds in the valves.
I managed to thread the hole with my allen key, FUCK. What size key did you use zorst? I might go buy some imperial ones as metric ones fucked it up.
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