99' Bandit 250 coilpack and HT leads help

[mops]

Hello Guys.
To make long sotry short:
My little bandit is missing sometimes when it's high humidity only at low rpm (that means pretty much every morning on my way to work).

I've been told that these are worn HT leads arcing on the frame and rocker cover, etc.

Somebody told me (i'm not sure whether that is correct) that my model's HT leads are hardwired into a coilpack, so basically to rpelace them I need to replace the whole coilpack (and then I do not know which one, as there are two). Can somebody confirm/deny that ?

I emailed Colemans for quote and they are wanting around $250 per coilpack, which I think is far to excesive.... so if I have to replace both coilpacks then it's twice that... aswell they suggested to get HT leads at repco, and that got me really confused...

Any other places I can look for the part I need ?
and is it possible to replace HT leads without replacing the coil ?

Thanks in advance,

Mops.

[Wasp]

Can you tell me what happens/ what you do? my bandit does this too and fortunately for me its covered under warrenty still...

[mops]

basically it misfires when on low rpm (under 5k), like constantly... i.e. it not that it's gonna miss one or two cycles, but it will be misfiring until your relase throttle - missing occurs when engine is on load, if you accelerate gently you might get away without missing. sometimgs it's more pronounced and works, making eg. moving off the light very difficult, and uphill almost impossible. Problem occurs more likely on cold engine, but occus on warm/hot aswell.

I noticed it worsens as the bike is NOT used. if i used it every day then it's almost never a problem. if I dont use the bike throughout the weekend monday and tuesday it misses somwhat. I was using my car for a whole week few weeks ago and then on monday and tuesday bike was virtually unrideable. I rode it very slowly to work and back and eventually it got better into full operating capability by the end of that week...

[Wasp]

yeap same as mine (sounds alot worse though), i ride mine every day thoug so who knows......

what octane are you using?

[mops]

bp 98.

once i filled gull's 96 and it was noticably worse.

[Wasp]

yea.... does yours ever bog down and refuse to rev?

i think i might whip the tank off again and see what i can see......

[mops]

again, if I ride it every day then missing is non-exsistent.
what do you mean bog down ? constant missing on one pot does sounds like bogging down. when it's not missing then it revs hard and all...

[Wasp]

sometimes my bike refuses to rev over 2k rpm for anywhere between 20 seconds and 5 minutes.. after which it roars into life and i drop the throttle.

Mine has a slight miss but lately it hasnt been firing at all on one cyclinder.

Ive got a cycleworks exhaust on mine too, what about you?

[MikeyG]

Before going and spending up on coils and HT leads I would get your ignition advance checked. It could be something as small as a broken/perished vacum hose from the carbs to the ignition unit.

I don't have much experience working on bikes but this is what I would check on a car engine.

[mops]

well, if one pot is not fireing, you will get a significant loss of power - bike will be unrideable pretty much.

out problem could be caused aswell by some contamination in the carb or stuck float...

[Wasp]

um any idea where abouts this vacuum hose is? or looks like? or runs to/from (more specifically)?

foxrider was having problems with his too, he said his mate put new plugs in and played around with the ht lead order.

[mops]

yeh, my boss (old biker) told me to replace plugs first. bike runs wasted spark, so i ht leads can be rearanged in certain combination. I'll pull the tank off this weekend and see what is going on. aswell i'll get a fresh set of plugs anyways...

[MikeyG]

No idea where it is or even if it will have a vacuum hose b'cos all my experience is on car engines.

Did some work on a mates skyline the other day. Has CDI ignition for each cylinder (6 cylinders). Replacing the CDI's and plugs was going to cost him $30 for a plug and $250 for a CDI for each cylinder = $280 per cylinder. He was better off going to an auto electrician and getting them to find out what was wrong and just getting that part replaced. I'd suggest the same to you.

Another thing to check is dirt/moisture. Pull off the spark plug leads and clean the top of the plugs and the inside of the HT lead/plug cap. A peice of rag on the end of a small screwdriver works well for cleaning the inside of the cap. A SMALL spray with CRC or WD40 can help battle moisture but clean them before spraying. It's surprising how much crap gets up inside the plug cap and how much difference it makes.

Unless you have a workshop manual, wiring diagram, and know what you are doing with electrics you are more likely to make things better than worse by playing with the HT lead order.

[mops]

mikeyG, thanks for concern.

I insalland and tune standalone ECU's on cars, so i know about ignition systems and EFI hardware. I rebuild car engines myself, so I'm not a noob you know

all tho I never got to know carbs.... i sorta know how they work but dont have much experience with them.

[MikeyG]

Sounds like you're all clued up on ignitions systems then and have probably tried anything I can suggest. There's another similar thread on the site today. See link below.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=28692