Going racing? Here's what you need.
Ok so you ride pretty fast on the road and you've done a couple of track days --but thats not enough -well comeon why not go racing?
HERES WHAT YOU NEED TO GET OUT ON THE RACETRACK IN NZ AND RACE.
This isn't by any means the whole rulebook just the basic stuff. But if you do this you will pass scrutineering and be allowed on the track to have some race time fun 
First --THE PAPERWORK.
If this racing thing is something you're not sure of then a DAY licence MAY be an option
A day licence is just that--rock up with all your bike gear and bike ( as below)
Buy a licence for the day and race but word of warning -
Automatic availablity of DAY licences ceased in 2002
SO - call the club running the event. and confirm they do do day licences
OTHERWISE-- You need to join a Motorcycling New Zealand (MNZ) affiliated club.
Here in Auckland its AMCC. contact details are at their web site-http//www.amcc.co.nz Membership costs vary from club to club but to give you an idea -senior membership at AMCC costs $40.00
Once you have your club membership you need to apply for a MNZ race licence. they can be contacted on http//www.motorcyclingnz.co.nz
You can get an application form from your bike club or on the MNZ website A single club race licence will cost you $80.00 for a year.
Once you have your licence then you can enter a race meeting.
Again pick up the paperwoork from your bike club.
---YOUR RIDING GEAR---
You will need a pair of decent leather gloves,propper motorcycle leather boots,A one piece or two piece zip together set of leathers with no holes in them (damaged bits through the leather)You must wear a back protector of approved type--most modern back protectors are fine.
They are fussy about helmets -Your helmet must fit you correctly , Must have one of the curent internationally standards approved stickers in or on it.
COMPETITION HELMET STANDARDS:
All new helmets available in New Zealand are manufactured overseas. These are made to various standards. The following standards acceptable for helmets for use in RACE events.Road & Off Road AS/NZS 1698:2006,
Road
Europe ECE 22-04 or 22-05, ‘P’
Japan JIS T 8133 : 2000
USA SNELL M 2000 or M 2005
Only helmets of single shell construction are permitted for road racing events. Two piece or flip top helmets may be used for have-a-go or track introduction days.
Must be totally undamaged-Some minor scuffing on the paint is ok but no chips through the jellcoat will be accepted.
----YOUR BIKE-----
Racetrack preperation-what you NEED to do to be allowed on the track.
Keeping in mind the rule book is about 10mm thick with some specific rules that need to be followed for certain classes.
1) your sump plug needs to be drilled (2mm ish hole) and a lock wire passed through it secureing it by the wire to part of the bike.
2) If you have an external oil filter either the housing must be drilled and wired to a secure point on the bike. or If you have a cartridge type filter it is acceptable to put a big hose clip round the filter and wire the hose clip to the bike.
3) All coolant needs to be drained from the bike and be replaced with water or a NON GLYCOL BASED coolant -(I suggest the latter-its better for water pump seals)
4) Radiator cap should be drilled and wired to the bike.(not compulsury)
5) All main overflow pipes must drain into a catch bottle attached to the bike -that being - carbs , coolant overflow bottles , crankcase breather,fuel tank breathers and any other fluid breathers.
6) handle bars must have the bar end weights fitted or similar plugs on /in the end of the bars.
7) brake and clutch lever must have the ball end still on them.
8) Chain guard should be fitted (not compulsury)
9) 3 number boards 285wide x 235mm high must be fitted they can be rectangular or oval -one each side at the rear and one on the front of the bike -the different classes use different color number boards and numbers. It is acceptable to apply paint /stickers directly to front fairings and rear tailpiece provided the painted area is minimum size or larger and is not obscured by the rider whilst riding the bike and also uses flat paint.
You may only use 2 or 3 digit numbers --No letters. A suggestion here is to take a spare set of numbers with you in case you get someone else with your number on race day.
10) mirrors,and external hanging indicators must be removed.if flush fitting then disconnect them so they can't work
Headlights,taillights and the horn must as a minimum be disconnected.Headlight should be removed but taping it over with duct tape would be the minimum.(I would remove the headlight as most clubs insist on it anyway)
the main stand must be removed. and the sidestand must either be removed or wired into the up position during racing.
A suggestion only here --Id remove as much breakable stuff from the bike as possible. Indicators /headlights/taillights rear footpegs and the speedo.
11) treaded type tyres must be up to WOF standard --slicks must be above the wear limit marks.
A little note here- riding on slicks gives a totally different feel to the bike and in all honesty unless you are used to slicks you are better off sticking with a good quality set of road tyres especially in colder weather or possible rain.
12) your bike must have an operational kill switch and for street races (using public roads) you must also have fitted a tether kill switch attached to the rider.-You WON'T be street racing anyway if you need to read this-- you must have raced at least 3 track meetings before you can do a street race
13) the Fuel you are allowed to use varies depending what class you race in but usually is limited to comercially available petrol ie pump gas.
14) wheel bearings .swing arm bearings,steering head bearings must be up to scratch as does the chain.
15)all factory fitted split pins must be in place on axles,brake components etc-no bent nails
16) exhaust system must not direct exhaust gasses to the ground and must be of an acceptable noise level.If your bike has removable baffles secured by a bolt then the baffle must also be wired into place.
16) There are other specific rules but basicly the bike must otherwise be up to warrant of fitness standard.
There are other specific rules and Im open to correction here but this should cover the basics you must do to get out there .
For more specifics regarding your race class or possible extra setups required
go to http//www.motorcyclingnz.co.nz/competitionrules/rules.aspx
Or you can message me -Ive got a copy of the latest rule book so I can tell ya what ya need to know.
That was what you LEGALLY need
Below is what I'd suggest you should have with you on your first race day.
Ok dude heres the truth--forget all the racer bullshit.
Unless ya names Foggarty or similar You are totally wasting your time spending money on the bike to start with.
There is no limit to the money you can spend on a race bike . Ie If ya have a million dollars you could spend that much.
In ascending order heres what I suggest.
1)Full engine service -Use quality lubricants. Best insurance you can invest in.Get the motor compression and leakdown tested to ensure its all kosher.
Get the rev/speed limiter removed or suckered into not working if you have one (usually if you have a 180km/h speedo you have one)
2)get the suspension front and rear serviced and set for your weight.
Theres a few guys who have a few clues on how to set ya bike suspension up for you. This is the second biggest go fast job you can do -no amount of HP is gonna help ya if your wobbling topwards the fence at 150km/h
3) a set of quality sticky road tyres -
Trust me here the whole slicks/wets thing tyre warmers is more head damage than you need at this stage--later on if you're still keen then go for it.
4) THE BIGGEST IMPROVEMENT TO LAP TIMES /RACE FINISHES YOU CAN MAKE IS ---TUNE UP THE LOOSE NUT ON TOP
Im really serious here -There is nothing gonna carve ya lap times down more than just plain doing laps and listening to feedback.
From there the skys the limit.
Hot Cams,porting,ohlins suspension.steering dampers,crash bungs,race wiring loom,big bore kit, race fairings,slicks,tyre warmers,spare wheels -lightweight wheels. -The list goes on and on.
Look in a nutshell folks first time out there is just so much you NEED to think about adding extra worries just isnt worth the hassle
Just get ya ass out there first off and have some fun going round and round.
Stuff that will be usefull
a roll of duct tape/race tape
fuel can 20l full of fuel
lockwire
spare brake lever,clutch lever,gear lever,footpegs
spare pair of gloves
spare helmet
clipboard
pens normal and felt.
tools to remove the parts above
QUALITY tyre pressure gauge
air pump
You should already have
Changed your oil, checked /replaced your brake pads,tyres in good condition ,chain in good condition
Bike is overall in good nick.
Now lets get out there racing--where there are no speed limits. No cars to avoid and no traffic cops to worry about
.
SPECIAL NOTE --When you sighn up for a race meeting you are stating you have read and understood the rules. Its Important that you know as a VERY MINIMUM the position and meaning of all of the flags
And the basic raceday conduct required.
MY PERSONAL OPINION --I would strongly suggest you do a couple of trackdays before actually racing. Theres a few reasons for this. 1)most trackdays nowadays aren't far off a race meeting in the way they are run. 2)You get to experience the whole racetrack thing with no pressure. 3) people will be freeer offering setup advice and assistance
Last edited by FROSTY; 18th May 2006 at 18:33.
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