L-Plate Rider
I'm fixing up a suzuki GSXR400 thats been sitting out in the rain for a few years, and the CDI (that controls the electronic ignition) looks like it could be stuffed. (although it does produce sparks).
So i was wondering if i could either borrow someones CDI to test in my bike or test my CDI in someone elses bike.
Thanks.
Nate
Life is rather like a grapefruit.
Moped rider
How did ya get on with that 400. I had a 91 that shat the cdi ... they are renowned for it. My ex also brought a 91 that had had the cdi already done. Theres a 88 (i think) that sits at the Mobil on the corner of Rangitikei and Tremaine you could try him. I also know of one for sale in town. Let me know if ya want more onfo and Ill try to track it down. My mate owns my old 91 but the cdi's are probably different. Phil's could tell ya for sure though.
Good luck.
Cheers Busted #66
"If I make it out the drive Its a good day!"
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
They are renowned for it but it’s a vicious cycle that sets off the chain of events.
The Rectifier/Regulator are very shonky on older suzis. As are the alternators. This & a bad battery puts the other 2 in overdrive & they burn out, the regulator often dieing first so the voltage is allowed to skyrocket well above the ~14V allowed in a normal so called ‘12V’ system. This kills the CDI. For this reason I’d want to borrow the Regulator & the CDI off the donor bike, if it works, then swap in your CDI to see that it doesn’t.
How to test the Regulator without kuzing the CDI is the problem. Finding the power in wire to the CDI & installing a discrete regulator would be a good idea.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Moped rider
Very true. Speaking from experience the best way to do it is put the bad cdi into a good bike that you know works. Haveing had it done on my old 400 prior to it stuffing its own cdi. I now have a 98 600 and the electrics are no better. Its already given me major greif ... and im an alarm tech by trade! the end fix we found on a new rectifier on the 600 was to bond it straight to the frame at the rectifier instead of relying on the existing circuit. Havent had a charging problem since ... he saya touching wood!
Cheers Busted #66
"If I make it out the drive Its a good day!"
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Yeah they are definitely built down to a price. Everything is ok when new & std. Run the oil low & the alternator overheats, put in a bigger headlight bulb & there is drain on the system.
My GS11 got a Yamaha reg/rec fitted pretty promptly.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Hardcore Biker
Ahh, the famous black box. What year is it - Impulses and GSXR400s of the same era are renound for it. A GSXR250 box will work, but you have to swap 2 wires over - sorry, can't remember which ones. Talk to Henry at Takanini wreckers.Originally Posted by liferocks
ER&D makes new black boxes, but my experience of them when I raced the impulse was poor. Unreliable and broke up at high RPM.
Geoff
L-Plate Rider
Well it turns out it was the coils that were busted. So I replaced them and now it runs. Not smoothly and not starting easily, but it runs.
The next problem is that the brakes have jammed themselves from sitting for too long. Looks like i might have to replace the rubber seals but thats going to cost like $10 a seal for 20 seals (2x4pots at the front and 1x2pot at the back)
So any hints on rebuilding brakes would be appreciated.
Thanks
Life is rather like a grapefruit.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Good you found it, make sure you don’t have dodgy aftermarket (non copperwire) leads & the sparkplug caps are ok (don’t read more than 7Kohm).
Brakes: Yeah that’s easy enough. For a starter chances are the seals are ok.
The seals you have to worry about are the main (rear) seals. The seals at the front are just dust seals.
Small sash clamps from the Warehouse make good extra fingers. Never force a piston cockeyed into the bore or so it will gack the seals.
Take the pads out. Pump the pistons almost out. So they are all almost all out. Pull them out by hand. When this doesn’t work, but hopefully it will there are a couple of options. With the calliper removed a grease gun can be used to pump the seals out, or compressed air. The second method will remove them at serious high speed. Wrap the calliper in a rag & a rag in between the pistons. Once out clean it up & put it back in & hold in place with a piece of wood or a clamp to remove the others.
Clean up all the pistons with plastic scourer & brakefluid. If they are badly pitted in the area that sweeps the seals then you have problems.
Pull the seals out carefully with a small screwdriver. Clean them up with your fingers & inspect them. If they are ok then they live another day. It is rare the main seals need replacement.
Clean out the calliper. It will be disgusting & the powdery residue needs removing from behind where the seals live. Do not scratch the bores. Light corrosion can be polished out. Clean carefully with brake clean (don’t get on any rubber parts).
Assemble carefully & cleanly together. The pistons should go in by hand if your fingers are strongish.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Tearing Choppa a new A'Hole
Sometimes you wont need new seals.
You can just strip the calliper, remove the pads and pistons and give em a good ol' clean up.
Mine went back together with the original seals, no worries.
Vote David Bain for MNZ president
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