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Thread: Brake Disc Bolts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    4th November 2005 - 14:21
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    GS125 and GP100 buckets
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    Wellington
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    Brake Disc Bolts

    So, I'm slowly putting together a bucket racer, based on a Suzuki Goose rolling chassis, sans brakes. Managed to aquire 2nd hand brake parts, especially the front disc, which has a rather uncommon mount for a Suzuki - 6 bolts, 100 mm PCD, 80 mm centre hole [1]

    Problem 1: Only have 4 bolts - actually flange head socket cap screws. And they're used, so I want 6 new ones.

    Problem 2: The local Suzuki dealer does not have the part number of the bolts, as shown by the microfiche, in their ordering system!

    Problem 3: Cannot track down source of flange head socket cap screws - Tried Shrodeco (sp?), Steel & Tube etc but no luck.

    Question: Just so long as I get a decent grade bolt (e.g. 8.9 and above), can I get away with flanged hex head cap screws? - I'm presuming the flange is there for a reason...Is there anything specific about the disc bolts that I need to be aware - should they be stainless, plated?

    Cheers,
    FM

    [1] Shared only by Brembo racing discs and possibly the ZX-10R...

    P.S. anyone got a GS/GN/DR/DF125 or FXR150 motor [2] they want to send my way for nowt, or close to it...

    [2] I rather dislike the idea of sticking a motor from one manfacturer into another manufacturers frame - it just ain't right...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    13th January 2004 - 11:00
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    dunno why ya want new bolts but anyhoo --try ya local wrecker --pretty common
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    3rd January 2006 - 20:34
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    Suzuki SV650S K8
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    I haven't got any of the bits you need sorry, but I do have a 350 Goose seat in good condition, if you or anyone else wants a free one.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    3rd October 2004 - 17:35
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    or take the bolt to a bolt shop and spend 5 bucks getting some new ones?
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  5. #5
    Join Date
    13th March 2006 - 20:49
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    TF125
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    Hurunui, FTW!
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    High Tensile Hex Bolts = Gr8.8
    Socket Head Cap Screws + Gr.12

    Flange-Head on yer bike = O.E.M.

    Try Bryce@Buckets'n'Bits??

  6. #6
    Join Date
    3rd October 2004 - 17:35
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    In aucks, in glenfield there is a shop called "the bolt shop" and they sell bolts, im sure there is somthing down welly way. I'm not sure what the high grade bolts are like but normal bolts are 30-50 cents each....
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  7. #7
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Performance Bikes mag had over the years made a point of mentioning that disc bolts should always be replaced and never reused. Now I'm pretty pragmatic about such matters, but the fact that John Robinson was the technical writer around that time makes me wonder if there's something in it. Maybe they stretch like TTY head bolts, amd thus weaken?

    Regardless, if you can find a suitable high tensile bolt or cap screw, it should work fine, I've seen them used hundreds of times on cars... not so sure about the bike ones, although I admit I've heard of them being reused plenty of times.

    Having said that though, I'd never not check out the OEM pricing.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    6th November 2004 - 14:34
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    i got some disc bolts from mike at mt edens , he had a box of bolts , nice guy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    4th November 2005 - 14:21
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    GS125 and GP100 buckets
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    Wellington
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    Quote Originally Posted by renegade master
    or take the bolt to a bolt shop and spend 5 bucks getting some new ones?
    Done that, and as mentioned, there is no direct off the shelf replacement for the OEM part, which in itself is not available!.

    The head is flanged (like an inbuilt washer) - can't get those in socket head cap screws, but can get them in hex head. Which is the way I'll probably go - it'll look naff tho.

    Why the flange? I would guess that it is to spread the shear/compressive forces through the thickness of the carrier to avoid distortion (and hence run-out) - thread-lock would always be used to stop em coming off, so it's not like a lock-washer situation?

    I don't think that the bolts are torque to yield - they're going into a cast aluminium wheel, which won't support too high a torque before it strips.

    Thanks for the suggestions guys!

    Cheers,
    FM

  10. #10
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    I agree, loctite em up and forget.

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