The Good Oil ?

**wari** · 20th April 2003, 22:00

This article was published in 1994 and compares motorcycle specific oils vrs automotive oils viscocity retention when used in a motorcycle after 800 miles and 1500 miles ... makes good reading ... well it does if you are interested in using a good quality oil in your bike. The relults are at the bottom of the article.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

**bluninja** · 21st April 2003, 10:55

This report is a bit more recent http://"http://www.google.com/search...&ie=UTF-8</a>"
Biggest concern to me is whether car specific oils will cause clutch slippage; I have heard anecdotal stories of other bikers that have used car specific oil and had problems with their clutch clso the oil is 'too slippy'. I guess people with dry clutches don't need to worry much

TTFN

**Blackbird** · 23rd April 2003, 07:53

My company has a contract with Mobil Oil for all industrial lubricants and I've had quite a close working relationship with them over the years. At their recommendation, I used Mobil 1 fully synthetic car oil in my old BMW K100 RS (separate clutch) and it was fine for all the years that I had it. However, when I changed to the 'bird (integral clutch), they advised me to use Mobil 1 4T Racing for bikes. This is the same as the car oil with one of the additive package elements removed. They were of the opinion that there was a risk of clutch slip with the car version.

So there we are.... from the horse's mouth!

**twistymover** · 24th April 2003, 02:42

A friend has had Mobil 1 4T Racing oil in his 1990 ZZR1100 for a couple of years with no problems. I'm going to use it in mine at the next oil change. By all accounts it has come out tops, and it's cheaper.

**Redstar** · 24th April 2003, 19:35

I used mobile S thats semi synthetic in my Bike once and it made no difference to the clutch but I can get Motal 5100 for the same price so why risk it? its more to do with the detergents in the oil and the anti foaming agents. If my bike had a dry clutch like the BMW I dont think I would even bother to change the oil! ever!
but If I did I would use Mobile 1. but then If I had a BMW I would'nt be bothered about the cost of oil only about my telecom shares

**What?** · 28th April 2003, 09:28

There are two things wrong with using car oils in a bike of unit construction. Firstly the friction modifyers can induce clutch slip. This is terminal as the fibre plates absorb these slippery bits. Secondly, and more importantly, car engine oils are not designed for the high shear forces produced by gearboxes and will break down quickly, resultuing in a high rate of engine wear. Motorcycle-specific oils are much better in this regard, being more shear resistant, though they do still suffersignificant degradation. This is why you are advised to change your bike's oil more often that you would your car.

Those who own modern bikes with dry clutches and separate gear boxes can use car engine oils in the engine. The manufacturer will, no doubt, recommend a specific transmission oil.

**Kwaka-Kid** · 28th April 2003, 22:59

What do you mean Oil? My bike takes petrol? i always top that up.. altho i somtimes water it down.. :P haha

Well atm i use what Mt Eden Motorcycles Sell/Recommend, Mike htere uses it on his racebike without fault. And ive herd other good stoires (altho notheaps, but still, no bad ones) its.. Putoline.. somthing, DX4? DT4? somthing like that, made for performance motorcycles

despite the fact that its got a picture of an old bike on the corver

Mt Eden Motorcycles Retail it for $50 for 4L. Not sure of modern bike oilprices, but thats the oil im using these days in my bikes, changing the 400 every approx 3000km/3months.

Give or take a fair bit, Because i touch the track, ithen change the oil more frequently. If i go for say, like Track Time 4, i got 134 Track KM's, and i was on approx 1000'k old oil, i did the change right afterward, that constant thrashing is obviously going to be harder then my usual riding, and i noticed that the gear changes starting getting clunky etc... so thats my main thing, how the motor sounds, in my mind its a better way of going then exact Km's, but hey, im a 17yo non-experienced nobody

**bluninja** · 29th April 2003, 08:29

Hey KK, have you tried recycled oil from fish and chip shops? I'm told it's cheap as...some even pay you to take it away.....

TTFN

**Motu** · 29th April 2003, 09:45

I use Silkolene Pro 4 in my air cooled Hondas and change at 3000km or 6mths,although one litre stays in the TLR200 all season.

Oil needs a certain activation time for the additives to start working,changing the oil too often is not a good idea,but then going beyond 6mths is also not good.

**Coldkiwi** · 29th April 2003, 12:13

Yup... interesting topic for me because I was having oil pressure trouble on teh zx-6 in the last week. I removed theoil to see what state/how much I had (the oil sight is scunged up so I can't tell!) and it was down to 2.3 litres (should've got 3.4 out) and it was filthy black having only done around 4000km's. Perhaps her previous owner wasn't as regular on the changes as he said. I topped it up with what new oil I had (getting more today) and thats done sorted the pressure problem out (BIG sigh of relief)!.

But is that an awful lot of oil to have gone through in 4000k's?? I did an oil change after I got the bike in february. should it have drunk over a litre?

I'm also on the Repsol 10w40 as stocked at Mt Eden and haven't had any trouble at all with it. Makes for nice smooth gear changes (very noticable also when running it in a 12 yr old 250!!!)

**MikeL** · 29th April 2003, 14:58

Another oil change question:
I have changed my oil so far every 4000 km. However, since I use my bike for weekday commuting plus long weekend rides (and I've just had two weeks holiday so you can guess what I spent most of it doing) I've clocked up 4000km in a month. The oil still looks quite clean so I'm wondering whether it's the time or the distance which is more important for oil degradation. If it's the time, I assume I could safely leave the oil in for a bit longer. On the other hand I'd rather be safe than sorry. What would you do?

**wari** · 29th April 2003, 15:05

Change it ...

**Motu** · 29th April 2003, 22:14

The problem with doing short runs and not getting the oil warm is that condensation forms,settles in the oil,nitogen in combustion bypass forms nitric acids,sulpher will form sulphuric acid - these love to eat metal.This is why you need to change your oil every 6mths even if you don't clock the kms.Heating oils with acids in them will turn it dark - not dirt.Doing lots of kms and not changing your oil very much is better than doing very few kms and only changing it when the kms are due.

**wkid_one** · 1st May 2003, 18:54

I run Repsol in the VTR - as Honda's have a particularly notchy gear change I was recommended this and find it the best oil for smoothing out the gear changes.....