There is also carbon tube available.
I think the tube i used was made in Rotorua,but there is also this place in Auckland.
The resin was strong enough to be able to turn the tube ends in the lathe.
http://www.carbon-tube.com/index.php
.
There is also carbon tube available.
I think the tube i used was made in Rotorua,but there is also this place in Auckland.
The resin was strong enough to be able to turn the tube ends in the lathe.
http://www.carbon-tube.com/index.php
.
Thanks for that mate, I might need something like that for warrants....
So, an update. Made my first cardboard 1:1 model last night and fitted it. Was a bit tight, have a revised edition coming tonight. Think I'm going to go for a single outlet instead of twin outlet though, just to get the volume in silencing material :/ More research!
Good point here - packing should be reasonably loose, and certainly not wrapped tight on the perforated tube. What you are trying to achieve is exhaust flow essentially going straight through, but the sound waves expanding in the muffler by going through the holes at the 'front' of the perf.tube, filtering through the packing (which is why it should be fairly loose/uncompressed) then re-entering the perf. tube towards the rear and then exiting the whole system.
This is essentially the 'Coby' design (what the Americans call a glass-pack). If you get it right, you will achieve enhanced performance with an acceptable dB
Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?
i thought thats what dover did when you left your bike unattended in his presence.
Whats a good thickness of carbon-fibre to use for and exhaust? I've finally devised a cheapish way to get an M1R replica pipe made with no hassle, but no really sure whats a suitable thickness of carbon to use.
KiwiBitcher
where opinion holds more weight than fact.
It's better to not pass and know that you could have than to pass and find out that you can't. Wait for the straight.
Yep - slid inside the existing pipe and I held them in with a stainless steel seft tapper. I'd also welded a bit of rod in the centre to grab onto to make removing easier but this is not essential.
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