VMCC Round 5 Race Report

[Two Smoker]

Good stuff homo... and cheers for going slow enough in the qualifying for me to latch on... Will pop into hells later... But too knackered at the moment... 32 hours work with 2 hours sleep sucks...

[Shaun]

What would you know anyway, you fast or something

I hear what your're saying about the springs old man, i've been too taupo a fair bit, had a K1 racetec on the rear, but my front was hydraulic locking due to too much oil (you were there that day) and it destroyed the rear,

How the hell does the front hydraulic locking destroy the rear EYE enstein

after taking oil out of the front and borrowing a supercorsa from a mate with a K3 the supercorsa wear quite well, but started to get a slight wave pattern off the end of the tread cuts, this was on a stock rear K3 shock, running a slick on the rear at the same settings and track pace i found it too be smooth and not teraing up on the edges,

And the track temp had gone up by then

overall wear was very minimal, so i decided to use a front slick as well and even with warmers it cold sheared withen a few laps very badly,

This was a used sco I sold you cheep, as you are a cheap bastard

i brought the K5 after that rather than spend coin on the K3, this time i run a slick rear and treaded front and had no problems and again very low wear on the rear and front,

Taupo had now had quite a few miles on it, helping to settle the grain of the track

the WP rear i have already put on a 9.5 up from the stock 8.0 spring which helped no end on corner exit at Manfeild and worked well at taupo, but am reluctant to go any harder in spring rate atm the only odd wear seems to be with the treaded tyres,

Of Courese, as there is an edge to work away at in the tread, the slick is smooth

Chris toasted his supercorsa rear, but seemed he had hydraulic lock on the front end too.

Just because one bike does or does not do this, does not mean it is down to the tyres

But in sayig that Derek Hill also running supercorsa had a smooth wear on the rear,

Because Deriks bike was set up by Robert Tayler with internal mods, and the external settings by me

i'm expecting a lot of racers to have issues at round 6, should be interesting to see how it goes.

Spring rates will fix all problems for 600cc and under


Although i have not run a treaded tyre with my current setup, so i will try this first, but any sign of the tyre destroying itself i will change over to the slick.

As I said, good luck but

Your WP shock is far to soft in the first part of the slow speed compresion stack, and the rebound is not firm enough, causing the rear wheel to lift away from the road, giving you poor mechanical grip to the surface.

But what would this old bugger know eh

[slowpoke]

....my fitness and strength is improving...

Thanks mate, I'll be adopting the Coro Loop/Pie diet myself in an effort to improve!

[loosebruce]

As I said, good luck but

Your WP shock is far to soft in the first part of the slow speed compresion stack, and the rebound is not firm enough, causing the rear wheel to lift away from the road, giving you poor mechanical grip to the surface.

But what would this old bugger know eh

Haha i know you know a lot mate, and have no end of respect for your riding and what you've done both here and a broad and especially on the IOM, believe me everything you say i take on board, i'd be silly not too.

Instead of swapping to ohlins surely there must be a way of dialing it out even on the WP, I mean some very fast riders are using WP, some very fast are using Ohlins, are you getting at more so that there is not the on side track support of yourself and Robert for ohlins that there is for WP.

Cheers for the luck though, catch you at Taupo Shaun.

[Shaun]

Haha i know you know a lot mate, and have no end of respect for your riding and what you've done both here and a broad and especially on the IOM, believe me everything you say i take on board, i'd be silly not too.

Instead of swapping to ohlins surely there must be a way of dialing it out even on the WP, I mean some very fast riders are using WP, some very fast are using Ohlins, are you getting at more so that there is not the on side track support of yourself and Robert for ohlins that there is for WP.

Cheers for the luck though, catch you at Taupo Shaun.

Not looking for respect from ya mate, just trying to save you a shit load of money and time by pointing out what I know, and can see wrong with your bike!

I would send the shock to the WP guy in Rotorua, patterson and connor m-cycles I think.

If you like I could talk with him when he gets it pulled apart

I would like to know what the bleed jet size is in it currently

and what the shim stack on the compression is, from that, I could reccomend what to do.

But for now, messure the pull rods on your linkage, eye-eye and make some new ones from Quality steel ( TEMP) make them 5mm shorter than the OEM ones, and I gaurantee you will be a happy boy!

But before you remove OEM ones, messure your chassis height from the rear sub frame to a point on your swingarm and note it down, cause when you fit new 5mm shorter ones your ride height will change heaps, so you will need to adjust shock length to get your ride height back to where it is now.

Make sure you get the ride height exactually the same, other wise the point of changing these rods will not be proven or disproven

[Rossi Gal]

Hey awesome racing on sat!! ya can see those seconds droping off!! see ya at Taupo!!

[cowpoos]

Your WP shock is far to soft in the first part of the slow speed compresion stack, and the rebound is not firm enough, causing the rear wheel to lift away from the road, giving you poor mechanical grip to the surface.

But what would this old bugger know eh

bruce....I had the exact same problem shauns described.....and was fixed exactly as shaun has described....

I was eating rear tyres...coz the rear either lite up with little effort or if it was gripping the bike wanted to run wide on exits under power....a low speed compression needle change was all it took to fix it.....

[loosebruce]

Not looking for respect from ya mate, just trying to save you a shit load of money and time by pointing out what I know, and can see wrong with your bike!

I would send the shock to the WP guy in Rotorua, patterson and connor m-cycles I think.

If you like I could talk with him when he gets it pulled apart

I would like to know what the bleed jet size is in it currently

and what the shim stack on the compression is, from that, I could reccomend what to do.

But for now, messure the pull rods on your linkage, eye-eye and make some new ones from Quality steel ( TEMP) make them 5mm shorter than the OEM ones, and I gaurantee you will be a happy boy!

But before you remove OEM ones, messure your chassis height from the rear sub frame to a point on your swingarm and note it down, cause when you fit new 5mm shorter ones your ride height will change heaps, so you will need to adjust shock length to get your ride height back to where it is now.

Make sure you get the ride height exactually the same, other wise the point of changing these rods will not be proven or disproven

Thanks for the tips Shaun, would Ray Clee not be able to do the same as the guy in Rotorua?
I dont doubt you at all in the advice for the pull rods, just curious as to what it would acheive doing so.

[Shaun]

Bruce, I have given you the best advice I can if you choose to do different that is your choice mate

[HDTboy]

Bruce, if you have the shock out by tomorrow night, I can save you a courier bill.

[emaN]

Bruce, if you have the shock out by tomorrow night, I can save you a courier bill.

and while it's in town, i'll slap it in the RF and let you know if it's worth having back

[texmo]

Bruce, if you have the shock out by tomorrow night, I can save you a courier bill.

he works in a logistics company dude, dont think that will be a problem.

[HDTboy]

Details, the offer was there.