more questions

[FROSTY:Me]

I agree with pete -Youve got the bearings out --for $20 you should just replace em
On the side of your wheel bearings will be a bearing type-probably summat like 63022rs
Ok now breaking it down the 6302 refers to the bearing size the 2 rs means 2 rubber seals. it might also be 2 nsl
-which is 2 neoprene seals
They might be unsealed bearings currently in there.
If you're anal about it pull the seals out but you will get better life leaving the seals in.
Dont worry if theyre skf, or nachi bearings --its the size that matters.
About those brake pins Id sand them with 400 grit paper untill theyre smooth and all sighn of corrossion is gone .If you have it yep use hmp grease but it is just a thin -almost microscopic smear so u could use normal grease.

As for the head bearings summat sounds wrong here dude.
The bottom ring is like the nut on a nut and bolt and the top ring is the locknut.
If you leave it a bit loose then in theory thethread should stick through less not more
If you want eric Ill have a quick gander at it for ya
-give me a call if ya want
frosty -021544251

[erik]

I'm on a real tight budget, and I read your posts too late. Anyway, the bearings are 6302z, they had a metal "seal" (although it's not really a seal, but I dunno what else to call it) on one side only. I pried those off so that I could clean them properly, and repacked them with wheel bearing grease, they feel like they're ok, so hopefully they'll do the trick.

I think I've got the steering head bearings sorted. There's two ring nuts (that's what they call them in a FZR400 manual) with a rubber washer in between them, and a washer thing locks them together so they can't twist separately. When I tightened them up the first time, I tightened the second one a bit too tight, squashing the rubber washer a bit too much, which made the steering stem stick out the top of the triple clamp too far. I guess the steering head bearings have squashed a bit or something, but I don't really know if that's possible or not. Anyway, I've made an aluminium spacer so that the steering stem doesn't stick through so far. (see pic)
Thanks for the offer of having a look at it, Frosty, but I think it's ok.

Next thing I'm thinking about changing is the jets. I lowered the needles one notch to try to improve the midrange, and I think it's helped, but I'm now wondering if the top end is a bit lean. Is it possible that lowering the needles also affected the top end too? And what's the story with jets, am I going to have to order some special mega-expensive jets (in which case it's out of the question) or are they a fairly standard part?
The carbs are mikunis, and the jet I think I want to change has a 90 stamped on it (indicating the size of the hole?).

[vifferman]

And the new Z1000

Is that so? That's a bit 80s...

I'll clean the old grease off (it says to use solvent in the book, but I'm hoping that petrol will do), and repack them with some wheel bearing grease I got from repco.

You should really use kerosene as a solvent for most things - it has a higher flashpoint than petrol, and it also leaves a slight lubricating/protective film. (That and the fact our petrol has nasty stuff in that attacks some rubber and plastic stuff).

And there's the front brake caliper... I'm thinking I'll clean them up a bit, and maybe put a bit of grease on them when I reassemble it. I'm just a bit apprehensive of putting grease anywhere near the brakes.

as others have said, if you use high-temp grease (just a smear), you'll be right. It won't get runny and end up on your pads. Make sure that the pins are really smooth though, or they'll end up sticking again.

Does anyone know if the brake pads on my bike are likely to contain asbestos? (1991, did they still use asbestos brake pads then?)

Unlikely, but if you're worried about safety, just wash 'em rather than brushing them or blowing them off dry. Breathing in the petrol fumes you used for cleaning your bearings is a greater health hazard than air-borne asbestos anyway.